Can tempering go wrong?

On Wed, 12 Jan 2005 12:02:16 GMT, Ecnerwal


Thats an excellent thought, if I get a chance today I'm gonna try it!
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Wish I had one. Two grand for the one I want but I'm serious about trying to make one from scavanged parts. See what happens. I paid attention to the part about higher carbon/lower temps. The most drastic example for me was that I started playing with that Pandrol stuff right off the bat and non magnetic is pretty much orange heat with that stuff. Then one day I had some of that straight carbon creeper or whatchamacallit material and discovered it was already non magnetic and was still a dull red (in shaded daylight).
This is bad... I knew the chart you were talking about as soon as I read your comment. ;)
GA
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Greyangel wrote:

If you're building from scratch, spend the money on the controller and the matching thermocouple. That's the heart of it, the rest is just brick and a hot wire. IIRC, I got a 2500 F controller for about $425 and the thermocouple was part of the kit. Not the "build a helicopter for $25" but still reachable by the hobbyist. You get what you pay for, heat treatment makes or breaks a blade. High tech where it counts.
Charly
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Actually what I had in mind was just a tempering rig made from modified toaster oven parts... I like your idea though. should be pretty simple to build the box and wiring and add a commercial controller...
GA

trying to

the
was
shaded
read
a hot

was
by
blade.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

You don't need anything fancy for tempering unless you are working with D2 or HSS and want to take advantage of their secondary hardness hump. (~900F)
The lack of a temperature controlled oven is what's holding me back from using A2. Yes I could "stick it in the fire" but to get A2's full potential a guy needs to "go by the numbers". :/
Very un-blacksmith like I know, but A2 won't be any better than 52100 without it, so why bother?

One of the guys on r.c.m (metalworking) claimed to control his by hand using a thermocouple and meter, did that for years before getting a good-used controller cheap enough. The price came down on them. :)
That's my plan for A2 and some VascoWear I already have.
I'm not going to use the electric-rig that many times that I can't do it by hand. :) I already have a meter with the resitor on it and face that reads too 1400C.
On the face in tiny letters it sez- Thermocouple Pt/Pt13%Rh, Ext.Res.10ohms, SPI Instuments Co.
Got it used for $2 at an industrial-type second-hand-store. ;)

Agreed. :)
Alvin in AZ
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
GA, Bill H. did you check this stuff out yet? Forger did you get a copy of the book yet?
Alvin in AZ -----------

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

HuH??? Hey it's early on Saturday morning. Can you be a bit more specific? I remember the thread. What part are you refering to and where are you trying to take me?
GA

good
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Polytechforum.com is a website by engineers for engineers. It is not affiliated with any of manufacturers or vendors discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.