Knife Making

I thought knife making would be an interesting metalworking topic. I mean we got tools, quality metalworking, steels, heat treating, forging, and on and on.

So if I get my shop building and have more convenient access to my equipment, I'd like to make some quality knives. For one, I want a blade of D2 because I hear it's almost stainless but holds an edge real well.

So if I could come up with a nice folding knife locking mechanism I could design in CAD and machine with the CNC, I could use that design to make an assortment of blade styles and handle styles.

One thing I noticed about knife making is that you can get a lot of money tied up in equipment, and I always like the idea of getting more equipment but not spending lots of dollars. I thought I could make a knife makers grinder by using tubing in the Reese hitch size ranges, maybe using polyurethane wheels ground true for contact wheels.

The heat treating furnaces are quite high too. Maybe get some kiln firebrick and heat elements, fabricate a frame to hold the bricks, and use an industrial ramping temperature controller with a solid sate relay for temperature control. Then I can set it to soak, ramp to temperature, hold, then switch to tempering temperature. Also it seems one of the controllers would be great at annealing, heat, soak, let it cool at specified rate at the critical temperatures.

Anyone here do any knife making?

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN
Loading thread data ...

Both stock removal and forging. Which way do you want to go?

Heat treating isn't all that hard with modern materials and known alloys. It's learning how to treat the various areas of the blade to keep the finished blade from becoming a mess that's the hard part.

Reply to
Steve W.

There's a book out by an editor of Blade magazine called "The $50 Knife Shop" or some such. Probably would be $100 now. Guy has some funny ideas about metallurgy and what goes on with hardening and tempering, but his shop ideas are sound. Has things like how to set up a smithing outfit, makeshift hardening setups, not so makeshift furnaces, build belt grinders( worth the price right there) from skate wheels or shopping cart casters, anvils and the various bits and bobs needed. Basically taking scrap and building a shop.

If you do differential hardening, your fancy precision controlled furnace isn't going to be much good. The Master's test for a blade is to be able to put it in a vise and bend it 90 degrees without it either breaking or taking a set. He shows how to do that.

Stan

Reply to
Stanley Schaefer

It is not almost stainless, it rusts.

I do not believe that there is any money to be made by knife making.

I do not and do not plan to. Seems like everyone wants to be making knives.

But the equipment, you can get on the cheap.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20041

Forget the D2 for a while. It requires 1900 deg for hardening. That is 400 deg higher than O1. It also has a machinability of only 65 and grinding it is even tougher. Besides, stainless is overrated. That is why there is oil.

Cobble together a decent beltgrinder and start with sheath knives in O1. When you get that running smooth, try some folders.

Paul K. Dickman

Reply to
Paul K. Dickman

That's why I said almost, if it didn't rust it wouldn't be almost.

formatting link
D2 This air hardened tool steel is sometimes called a "semi-stainless" steel, because it contains 12% chromium. It offers decent corrosion resistance with exceptional edge retention. It is harder to sharpen than most, but can be finished to a high-polish shine.

formatting link
D2 This material is a very high carbon steel (1.5%) that has superb edge holding ability and unmatched wear resistance, but lacks toughness. It is not as corrosion resistant as 440C or ATS-34, and is not considered a stainless steel because it only has 12% chrome. Stainless blades have 13% or more.

I agree, I just want to make them for myself or maybe gifts, not for making money.

I don't guess you have any small, shippable, heat treating kilns/furnaces?

RogerN

Reply to
RogerN

Gunner raises his hand.

You get an oven...drop me an email and Ill send you a present.

formatting link

Got a number of controls that work nicely. Works best with electric, will work with gas.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

formatting link

It rusts almost as bad as regular steel.

Great idea. You need a 1 inch belt sander and a HT oven, you have a mill already.

I have one small one, but it will have to go by freight. Freight cost to BUSINESS in your area, with forklift, that takes a semi truck, is $100. $100 more to a house. I will need to test it first and it is subject to verification.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20041

formatting link

formatting link

While on the subject of freight cost, do you know what your freight costs would be to get something like that to the Central Freight terminal in Sherman, TX? I know residential is always big $, but I've got that freight terminal nearby where I could pickup from. And yes, I'm interested in a heat treat oven as well, especially now that I have a surface grinder.

Reply to
Pete C.

Do you have any good sites or books for reference for my upcoming switchblade project?

Reply to
Pete C.

formatting link

formatting link

$150 to terminal. $100 more to a house.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20041

formatting link

"semi-stainless"

formatting link

kilns/furnaces?

Good to know, so if you find a good heat treat oven, small CNC lathe, etc. that I need it won't necessarily be too expensive to ship.

Reply to
Pete C.

formatting link

"semi-stainless"

formatting link

I have really great shipping rates.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus20041

Ignoramus20041 fired this volley in news:JN-dnbrH3PyZiSjMnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:

Yep, even on bulky stuff. Lloyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

formatting link

Maybe have a look in your area for 2nd hand ceramic kilns as they make a good heat treatment furnace in my experience. I have a small Gallenkamp heat treatment furnace which is used for small stuff and enamelling but doesn't currently have a PID controller. My main kiln is an 18" top loader that I use for normalising etc and I have a PID controller for that and it works well. The elements are a bit tired so it'll only just get to 1200C on a good day, not the 1300C it would originally do, but that is normally only needed for firing refractory castable items to working temps not heat treatment so it's fine.

Reply to
David Billington

Some stuff

Sites:

formatting link

formatting link

formatting link

formatting link

Books:

Master Bladesmith : Advanced Studies in Steel (one of THE best books on the topic)

formatting link

Reply to
Steve W.

formatting link

"semi-stainless"

formatting link

Just keep in mind that the ovens are filled with a very fragile firebrick or compound..and the heating wires are very fragile once its been used a couple times. So they CANNOT be banged around much.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Send me an email address that will allow large files to be downloaded. Ive got a LOT of knife making data in ebook formats

Or I could put em on a DVD I suppose...shrug.

Gunner

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Set up a google drive or skydrive account and stick them there. Gdrive is 5 gig free skydrive is 7 gig free

Reply to
Steve W.

My email server has no attachment size limits, anything you can send it will accept.

Reply to
Pete C.

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.