Naw, I don't think so. I don't really know what it's supposed to do to you but understand that it's bad. I vacated the vicinity quickly and it was out in open air anyway.
??? The mineral oil by the way is as good as I had heard from an ease of use standpoint. Some flame but not enought to worry about (kind of like holding a burning stick). No smoke, no smell and it wipes off really easy. I would highly recommend it as an oil quench.
The refrigerator magnet melted in my hand... Just kidding. Haven't got one of those telescopic magnets yet.
Seems to be the training tool of choice.
Sounds like fun.
Bingo! This is what I was looking at! I figured with the shadow still lurking in it's heart that results would be unpredictable.
I was advised by another person on this group to preheat the oil to something like 200 degrees for 5160 (which is what I've pretty much decided this metal must be). Going by my last experience, Cold didn't work well; Warm worked better, Hot should be just right. The cool part is I can use the top of the brick pile as a warming table for the oil pan. I just need to guage the temperature of the oil.
Well since the best pieces of the railroad material is probably plain carbon steel (excepting the spring clips) A water quench would probly be appropriate for larger knives and such. You recall I earlier talked about doing a test quench in crank case oil. I had used a piece of the spring clip material rough forged into a flat bar and it took a couple tries to get that hard but it worked. The knife I'm trying to harden now is the same material but thinner. I changed quenchant so I suppose this is a good demonstration of the difference in quenches.
Well it helps when folks say what they mean :)> I'm always trying to convince my boy of that. Makes the English language work right. Actually though, I think it is question of how rapid you want the cooling. Call it what you want but if all my reading is worth anything then water cools faster than brine and brine faster than oil, etc. I think the object is to cool it as slowly as will get the job done, to prevent stress on the steel. That's my take anyway.
hmm, yeah, I've been bouncing this one around in my head (ktink, ktink). I haven't quite figured out how to get the blade to not heat faster in places. With a better insulation this should get better but usually the metal closest to the torch will heat up a lot faster than what is farther away. With a blade it pays to put the thinnest spots farthest from the torch. Maybe a hole that I could poke the sharp end into or a slot in the bottom to seat the edge... hmm yes... how about a heat treating "rack"? A smallish piece of brick with a groove to set the knive blade upright into and slide th whole thing into the forge? I like it! It would keep the blade standing on edge without having a pair of tongs attached to it. You're a genious!