I have a Damascus blade I have been working on . It is finished except for heat treating and tempering. I am not sure how to handle this process with a Damascus blade. It is made from off the rack mild steel and radial arm saw blade steel.
Yes But only on several small knifes. They were all made from 5160. I use a mineral oil at slightly above room temp to quench them and tempered at about
Did you do the welding?
Yes I welded this knife in my propane forge I used three layers of the saw blade with two layers of the off the rack mild steel. I use plain borax for flux. So far the blade has no inclusions or cold shuts.
What brand was the saw blade and was it carbide tipped?
Yes the blades are carbide tipped. They are from a 16" dewalt radial arm saw at home depot. The blades are worn out I cant make out the brand.
I am pretty low tech I use a large can of the mineral oil to quench and the oven in the kitchen to temper.
Thanks again for the help.
I have picked up a lot good info from your posts over the last couple of years
What happened to me is I learned about heat treating by reading metallurgy books in the late 80's. My first clue to when the steel was ready to quench came from a graph that shows how the steel's temperature actually drops back slightly and also lags (time wise).
That property can be seen after part of the steel gets through that "arrest point" and the center/thicker sections have a shadowy/darker cooler look while they are going through it and almost ready. When the whole piece smooths out to one color, it's ready to quench.
I call it the "arrest point method". :)
The "magnet method" sure as heck works, and in full sun (and other situations like that) might be the only way to go! :) Otherwise I believe the arrest point method is a more precise method "when it works;)". YMMV
Yeah it's 1069 or 8670-M then. The spark difference between those two is seen mostly at the ends of the stream. If you're going to mess with saw blades much (I claim;) it'll be worth knowing the difference by learning to spark test them, so when you weld the two together you'll know what you've got, is what you wanted? ;)
Cool, sounds like it worked. :)
Did it sharpen up nice? :)
I've had some trouble with that where the edge is "crumbly" and can't be made smooth. It happens when I re-heat treat old butcher knives. :/
My latest finished work...
That re-heat treated (and cold treated:) spear blade sharpens up real nice! :) The other two blades are O1 and it always sharpens up nice.
I am really more interested in artistic functional iron work. I guess pattern welded knives would fall in that category to. But more into pot racks lighting custom trellises and the like. I haven't sharpened the blade yet I will let you know how it turns out.
Don't know if you ever got your answer, or if you got the blade heat treated and tempered. You basically handle the damascus as you would a regular blade. Bring it up to non-magnetic then quench in oil, I usually do this
2-3 times. Then tempering I use a toaster oven at between 350-400 degrees for an hour, let cool to room temp. then do it again. I've done this on all my blades including damascus. Hope this helps. TomNBandera