Hello all. I am going to build my own forging studio and I have a
question about home built gas burners.
I have a copy of Michael Porter's book Gas Burners for Forges,
Furnaces & Kilns. All the burner designs in this book call out #316
stainless for the nozzle. I have not had any luck finding #316
stainless pipe in my area and I am wondering if #304 stainless pipe is
an acceptable substitute. Anyone have any experience in this area?
A forging studio? Never heard it called that before.
A mighty good book that. I actually live in Oz, so an American book (no
matter how good) usually requires a lot of research to get local product
names, that is if there is an equivalent product.
I used the Mike Porter book as a guide, and developed my own simple
burners, that work just as well, but only require a little machining and
a little silver soldering. By the by, I too needed a flare for my
simple burners, and gave up using the suggested products in the books
and American sites.
I simply went to a local steel merchant and asked for stainless steel
pipe that would tolerate a lot of heat. I ended up with a type of
exhaust pipe that does the trick. Have no idea the name of the steel
and don't really care... it works.
My point is ring around the steel merchants local to you and ask, they
usually know what to sell you.
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 22:41:34 -0000, " firstname.lastname@example.org"
316 (or to be more exact 316L) is a common stainless used around boats
because of its good anti corrosion properties. There is little, or no,
reason to use it for a burner tip as since the tip is going to get hot
every time you use it is going to corrode. Go ahead with the 304, for
your use it won't make any difference.
Bruce in Bangkok
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
On Mon, 02 Jul 2007 22:41:34 -0000, " email@example.com"
The only experience I have with them is the one I made for myself, so
the rest is passing along what I've heard second-hand.
The main thing here is that if you're making a venturi burner, they
have a reputation for being really touchy to build and keep running-
though there is the obvious benefit of not requiring a power source to
run a blower. That part is second-hand- I don't really know if the
reputation is deserved or not.
But, if you decide to go with a forced-air blower, they are dead easy
to build. Rather than trying to track down stainless pipe to make a
flare, you can just use black pipe off the shelf at the hardware
store, and get to work. There are plenty of plans floating all over
for these, and it makes the question of 316/304 stainless moot.
I wish I could tell you what the difference is, and we actually use
both at work, but all I know about 316 is that it costs more. We
don't get it in pipe, or I'd send you a piece- though if you have a
slip roll or some other method of bending it into a cone, I could
probably hook you up with a little piece of scrap all ready to roll
into a cone. IIRC, I have 14ga 316 sitting in the rack, but we don't
use it very often at all.
The ones in Mikes book are a little fiddley, but taking the knowledge I
made a much simpler venturi burner, that can have forced air added. The
following burner is relatively easy to make and only has to be tuned
once. Gas tuning is another subject ;-)
The secret is the gas accelerator, basically a mig tip shaped to look
like a 303 bullet, silver soldered to a thin brass tube. The brass tube
can be moved to centre the accelerator, thus making tuning a once only
oh and here is a simple forge/furnace/raising tool I made for a
friend... recycling is good :-)
It's not the "resizing" or "resampling", it's "cropping" that it
needs. Details are worth waiting for IMO. :) Remember your first
pictures of knives on r.k and I commented "nice lawn ;)"?
"just the facts m'am" -Joe Friday
Alvin in AZ
its just make a smaller/resized version, I know its a big ask, and yes
the details are great, but if it takes forever to download, people
with dialup like me are not going to wait for it. Think Thumbnail,
well ok a bit larger for a quick view, then I can make a decision on
downloading the full version to get all the information.
You know how impatent people are today ;-)
On Jul 11, 5:52 pm, snipped-for-privacy@Example.com wrote:
I seem to kill grass with ease, the weeds for some reason like being
burnt and having acids (and other noxious chemicals) poured onto them.
I finished the section of the course I wanted to do, and learnt what I
needed to know. It was a good course :-)
You know that the warranty on the Swiss knives is lifetime? Rebuild or
There was no indications with the last few that passed through my
hands, that there were any requirements to register, so that may be
worth looking at!
Yeah I know-ed-dat-ar'ready. :)
Someone in the UK wanted to customize theirs and was asking about it
on r.k. I had one that was corroded-up pretty-bad (aluminum liners)
and took that one apart so I could answer his questions. He wasn't
the first, figured it was time I learned, so there it is. :)
I can't stand the silly things myself.
It's still apart, you want it to repair and/or modify? :)
Alvin can't give the dangged thing away in AZ
I look around my shop space, and see the skeletons of too many OTHER
unfinished projects.... <sigh>
Gonna have to do something I don't have a lot of experience with, and
say no. :-)
This is an undeserved "reputation" based on lack of knowledge mostly. The
four naturally aspirated burners in my main forge include two Reil, one EZ,
and one T-Rex burner, and they have all been functioning perfectly for many
years, long enough that the interior of the forge is now worn out and due
for overhaul. It is often a case of the blind leading the blind that results
in burner problems and false reputations being developed. Both types of
burners, naturally aspirated and blown, will do an excellent job for you,
and both will easily forge weld if built correctly. Each type of burner has
advantages and disadvantages compared with the other, but they are both
excellent tools in the right hands.
The biggest problem with naturally aspirated burners is not the burner, but
seems to be the guys who build them. Having helped literally thousands of
guys over the years build burners, or trouble shoot them after they have
built them, the problems they encounter are almost always due to making
changes in designs that work well already, or just striking out on their own
to make their own designs. I should also add that there are guys who just
can't use tools to build anything successfully, including a burner. Those
guys need to buy a burner pre-made by Rex Price. :-)
On 7/3/07 2:39 AM, in article firstname.lastname@example.org,
Golden Age Forge
Garden Valley, Idaho
Phone: (208) 462-4028
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