making a burner for a gas grill

Talk to the guys at Texas BBQ. What they don't know about BBQ grills hasn't been thought to of yet.

"Bob La Londe" on Fri, 9 Jul 2010 00:04:16 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Long way to go (I'm up near the Canadian Border) but shall attempt to check them out.

If you still have the old burner maybe you can estimate the total area of all the orifices using a proper sized drill bit. That might give you a better idea of what you need to do to modify the replacement.

"Denis G." on Fri, 9 Jul 2010 20:57:07 -0700 (PDT) typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

I have the old burner, or rather the two halves. The bottom half is in pretty good shape, but the top half burned out ... I could just make anew top and see how that works .... Thanks for the inspiration.

tschus pyotr

If it's feeding too little gas, sounds like the orifice is clogged, or too small.

"Stormin Mormon" on Sat, 10 Jul

I'll have to check for that. I suspect more of a case that the new burner has more capacity than the old. Hmmm - how to test?

tschus pyotr

(...)

Do we know that the burner is compatible with natural gas?

--Winston

If I switched to natural gas, I would have difficulty using it as a table top model, which is what it is.

You could drill the burner orifice oversize and see if that results in an acceptable flame.

(See fourth picture down:)

--Winston

The suggestion was made to flatten a tin can and put holes in that. "That's an idea!"

pyotr

Mind, I didn't say it was a "good idea"

(...)

It's my thick California accent, isn't it? :)

--Winston

Maybe. Furshur.

pyotr

The orifice is part of the gas valve assembly, not the burner, yes? (See fourth picture down:)

We need to drill the orifice to supply *more* gas to the replacement burner (which is 61% bigger than the original).

pyotr > The old one is 2 3/4 by 12 1/4 while the new one pyotr > is 3 1/2 by 15 1/2.

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pyotr > I suspect that it is set up to burn more gas than the pyotr > regulator can provide.

I believe you are on the right track, Pyotr. Groovy!

Drill baby, Drill!

--Winston

Is there a chance that the orifice is made for Natural Gas? Propane needs a smaller orifice.

Propane runs at higher pressure, so the orifice is smaller. Are you converting from propane to NG, or using a propane burner on a NG system? Might have to drill open the orifice, a bit.

The test is in performance. If it works right, or not.

"DanG" on Sun, 11 Jul 2010 13:08:39 -0500 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

What I have is a propane grill, a table top model, which I got used some 15 plus years ago. Used it camping several times. Seven years or so ago, I "modified" it for home use, to use the 20# propane tank, by getting a hose to screw in where the bottles do and connect to the larger propane tank. Andy & Bax in Portland. Much cheaper, too. Last week, the Burner "wore out", and I got a generic replacement unit from Ace Hardware. Transferred the Venturi from the old burner to the new burner, and the only thing different is the burner itself. (The 'standard' flexible venturi doesn't work, because it was not designed for a table top model.)

Cranked up to High, I get a small flame - although all around the edge. But if there is a gust of wind, it goes out. Not good. (Not as impressive as the time I was delayed in lighting it, and the entire thing had filled with propane. "Whoompp!" as the gas lights off; "Clank!" as the lid jumps up a little and drops back down. It "fires" from the closed lid position.).

And like I said, it is a generic model - in that I can find no maker's marks at all. It is cast aluminum, with a cooking surface milled on the top of the lid, (ObMetalWorking Content) It is very much like a vintage auto that you want to keep running because you like it, only like that classic Gremlin, finding parts is a pain.

Well, I have actually gotten a lead for a possible place which actually is not too far out of the way (for some values of far.)

But I appreciate the advice offered. Who knows, it may fit.

pyotr

Maybe I can just plug the holes from the outside. Fewer holes, less gas needed

(...)

Notice how the flame travels 'domino fashion' from hole to hole when you light the burner? What would happen if half the holes were plugged and there was a delay of say 45 - 60 seconds until the 'rear bank' of holes finally lit?

Whoomp! _Skillets In Space_

--Winston

Been there, done that - one more reason for heavy skillets, and the like.

What I figure to do is plug the holes on the end, so that hte flames are not reaching the actual wall. But you raise a good point - lighting after this modification. Could be a wee tad more energetic.

I will have to ponder this carefully.