Cyclone or cyclonic dust collector. Grinding collectors do not generally
use a filter or a bag. They use various methods to dump out the burning
grinding particles. Some use water baths, others use baffling, others
use fast and slow air changes.
Burning sparks and filters/bags are not a good thing. Many the person
who has used his shop vac for this has set it..and or his shop afire.
"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gullshit in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."
- Onni 1:33
If you are using a chopsaw I'd suggest you save the money you'd spend on the
dust collector and sell the chop saw. Then get a cold saw. When I looked
at the fact that a day of cutting with the chop saw took 3 days to deburr
the cold saw started to look really good. You know what? It was good too.
Gary H. Lucas
What sort of cold saw?
We have a Milwaukee 14 inch for aluminum. It worked fine for steel and
stainless steel, but those blades were expensive and the teeth didn't
last. Additionally, they didn't work well for small pieces - the teeth
would catch and fling the small pieces. The chopsaw works better for us
for small pieces, but ya, the deburring is a problem.
A cold saw for ferrous metal spins a 14" blade at 30 to 45 RPM. My last two
were Taiwanese SOCO saws, not bad for the money. They all have a vice which
holds both sides of the part being cut. So you can SAFELY cut a part in
half, that was only half an inch long to start with! This is essentially a
milling operation, and you get a finish consistent with milling. They
almost all have a flood coolant system. I put a simple vernier stop on
mine, using a 1/2-20 threaded rod and a nut with index marks. The first
piece I cut will be over by about 0.015" so I don't waste it. The next one,
and all the rest will be within +- 0.002". My SOCO was intended for
ferrous, but I cut mostly aluminum, just a little slower than your
Milwaukee, but a hell of a lot safer, and far more accurate and clean. I
liked the fact that I didn't have to think twice about removing 1/4" from
the last piece of a bar safely. We also routinely cut 20 spacers say 3/16"
long off a 2" round bar.
The blade is high speed steel with no inserts typically. To cut a wide
range of material thicknesses you need at least 3 different blade pitches.
Too fine and the gullet packs up, BANG the blade cracks and you throw it
away. Too coarse and you may catch a single tooth and break it off. The
blades get resharpened for about $12 and can be resharpened many times.
When the teeth get too small they charge you an extra $10 to grind off all
the teeth and grind in new ones on a smaller diameter. You keep going until
you run out of diameter. Realistically you need to have at least 6 blades,
a spare for each of the 3 pitches. For production you need 9, 3 out getting
sharpened. This is important, a dull blade doesn't just cut poorly, it
sometimes goes BANG and cracks so you throw it away.
A cold saw cuts accurately and cleanly enough that for many parts you won't
need to square up both ends of the part. This saves a huge amount of money.
On thin tubing you can get a cut so clean there will be virtually no burr.
We used to cut tons of thin wall tubing, and the burr free parts saved us 3
times the labor cost of making the cuts. At that time I had an automatic
feed SOCO. Put a 20 ft bar in there and come back later to get the number
of parts you set on a counter. It easily held +- 0.001" on length over 100
Hope this helps,
Gary H. Lucas
I bought our shop a cold saw about 18 months ago.
It was fully automatic, but the control was missing. It is up and running
now, and we just ran a couple production jobs on it last week.
This model is for non-ferrous metals only.
It has a blade that is 16" in diameter.
The blade runs at a speed that to me is absolutely frightening. Surface
speed like a woodshop table saw. It was blasting through 3-3/4" aluminum
round bar, the saw time was on the order of 3 seconds. It has an issue we
need to look into where the length of index could be more accurate, but even
with a total deviation of about .030", it still is suitable for our needs.
Loud? dayumm. I use a set of ear muffs I bought for the pistol range, with
something like 32db reduction.
I'd really like to have one of those smaller manually operated units for
short runs in smaller bar sizes.
The speed of your saw is probably quite a bit below the speed of a wood
cutting saw. Wood cutting saws typically turn about 5,000 rpm, I'll bet
yours is turning about 3,000. However compared to a ferrous saw at a
leisurely 45 rpm, yeah it is a bit scary! The ferrous saws are very quiet,
about the same as a horizontal bandsaw.
Gary H. Lucas
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