Drop indicator help needed.

My coax indicator just shot craps.
I purchased an Enco copy of the Blake coax indicator. I used it a few times, and while not quite the same fit and finish as
the Blake it was fully functional.
I had not used it for several months, and when I went to use it, it had a rattle and was not working. Disassembly showed that the indicator tip or point had broken off somewhat below the surface of the indicator stem. From the dark matte surface of the break, it appears to be due to hydrogen embrittlement from the plating. [The indicator tip was apparently chrome plated for wear.] Enco is no help on this.
I don't know the thread in the ADG1 drop indicator, but I do have both a metric and 4X48 tip that should function with a little polishing (although the "zero" may be off). My problem is how do I get the threaded portion out?
Any suggestions for repair stations? Has anybody simply superglued or epoxied the tip back into the indicator stem? How about a Teflon or Delrin "cap". I have both Teflon and Delrin rods and can machine something up. I am not concerned with the "zero" lining up.
I use this on a mini-mill and clearance is always a challenge. Does anyone make a coax indicator that uses a test indicator in the horizontal position? You can almost always "eye-ball" to within 5 or 10 thou of a punch mark and most test indicators have a +/- 15 range. Should be able to get 2 - 2_1/2 inches out of the body and perhaps another inch with a shorter needle.
Unka George (George McDuffee)
There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations; even a democrat like myself must admit this. But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy, for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch," but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.
Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
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F. George McDuffee wrote:

Hey George, for about $125 you can get a another one. Or you can spend the $220 and get a Blake you cheap screw. Just kidding. I've had a Blake for more than 10 years. It still works just fine. I lost the indicator tightening screw, but I found a phillips head with the same thread. Since I keep an electrical screwdriver in my shirt pocket it isn't an inconvenience when I change indicator tips.
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I believe Enco has those blakes on sale for around $180.00, sheck it out
"D"
Bill Roberto wrote:

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On Sat, 15 Jul 2006 04:30:18 GMT, Bill Roberto

<snip>
===============It makes me Scottish blood run cold to scrap a perfectly good tool because the failure of a part that costs 1.00$ or less.
I can buy another Enco clone coax indicator for 86.85$ +S/H in their current catalog, possibly less on sale.
Thanks for the email suggestion that I try my local jewler to get the threaded part of the indicator tip out. I will give that a try. If that fails I will machine up a "cap" of teflon to replace the tip. If that fails then I will give either the super glue or epoxy a go. If this doesn't work then I have a kit of spare parts for the next one.
Unka George (George McDuffee)
There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations; even a democrat like myself must admit this. But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy, for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch," but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.
Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
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George,

I have three or four Blakes, one at each machine. I also have one in my personal tools that has to be at least 20 years old. We use them all the time, the 20 year old one works as good as the newer ones.
Buy the real thing and you won't have to fuss with this stuff. I think the SPI model is an OEM Blake, probably a little less $$$$
Regards
Mark
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George,
    Normally you can back the broken portion out by using a small set of curved tweezers, or a sharp pointed scribe. Sometimes you can also drop that end in an ultrasonic cleaner, and touch the idicator edge to the wall of the tank. Using the vibrations to help it spin out.
ca
F. George McDuffee wrote:

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wrote:

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions both by direct email and in the group.
I had tried "picking at it" with no results. Applied a moderate amount of heat (too hot to hold but only moderate discoloration] to the stem with a butane micro torch. Got a little smoke from the threads but broken shank still as tight as ever.
No ultrasonic tanks available.
Internet surfing indicates that a supplier I have dealt with in the past [H & H Industrial Products] has what is apparently the same AGD-1 indicator on sale. I measured up the existing indicator and have an email enquiry in right now. In fact they sell an apparent duplicate of the Enco coax indicator although in a different color, and I may get lucky and be able to get an exact replacement.
FWIW -- I have found H & H to offer good value on a limited range of precision tools/equitment. I got my magnetic sine bar, several angle blocks, and ER25 collets at very good prices and these have worked well. see http://www.hhip.com
Unka George (George McDuffee)
There is something to be said for government by a great aristocracy which has furnished leaders to the nation in peace and war for generations; even a democrat like myself must admit this. But there is absolutely nothing to be said for government by a plutocracy, for government by men very powerful in certain lines and gifted with the "money touch," but with ideals which in their essence are merely those of so many glorified pawnbrokers.
Theodore Roosevelt (1858-1919), U.S. Republican (later Progressive) politician, president. Letter, 15 Nov. 1913.
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Have you tried Ebay like this Item number: 230007566017
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Hey George,
I *think* if you send it back to Blake they'll fix it up for you...I seem to recall doing this about 5 or 6 years back with a damaged unit given to me by a friend.
Cheers........Brian

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Not if it's a "Fake" "Blake"
Mark

plutocracy,
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