Use For Spring-Loaded X,Y,Z LED Edge Finder

To The Curious:
    I bought one of the following edge finders years ago. Never really used it, since (like all the LED edge finders I have), it's not nearly
as accurate as a normal edge finder, especially being as it's spring loaded.
http://www.kfh-hermann.de/Storeserver.NET/kfhstore/02/3D%20Edge%20Finder.htm
    Now I was setting up the 3D profiling operation on the following part last week. Picture resolution isn't so hot, I need better lighting, or maybe a new digital camera. It never did work very well for small parts.
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/BottleBob_photo/Aero%20Part/AeroPart.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/BottleBob_photo/Aero%20Part/AeroPart2.jpg
    Picture the 1/4" wide "tang" with the 5/8" bored hole in it being held in a vise with the 10 degree flat bottom (before profiling), sitting kind of like in the second picture. I wanted to find the center of the 10 degree angle in relation to the center of the "tang". So what I did was edge find the back vise jaw, move out half the distance of the 1/4" "tang" or .125", then put my X,Y,Z spring loaded edge finder in a holder, moved out half the diameter of the tip (.100) then brought it down until the edge touched the angled surface of my part and the LED's lit up. Recorded the Z value in the control, moved the edge finder to the surface of the back vise jaw and brought it down and touched it(LED's lit up. Wrote down the Z value, subtracted the two readings, then made up a Jo block stack at that dimension, and set my tools off of the Jo block stack.     Was that clear as mud? LOL
    Anyway, my point being, that that was the first time I actually thought of a use for that spring loaded edge finder. I didn't even think the batteries would still be good after all this time.     Just sharing a little setup tid-bit that might prove useful to someone in the future.
--
BottleBob
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Bob,
The secret to shooting small parts on a digital camera is "macro mode". Usually the symbol for the setting on the camera is a little flower deal that looks kind of like a tulip.
--

Dan

CNC Videos - <http://tinyurl.com/yzdt6d
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D Murphy wrote:

Damn! I wondered what that was. Thanks Dan. I've been trying to figure out why an 8 megapixel camera won't produce a decent readable image of small black on white text. That seems to do the trick nicely.
--

John R. Carroll
www.machiningsolution.com
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On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 00:39:13 GMT, "John R. Carroll"

You didnt know this???????????????????????
Blink blink......
Gunner
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Gunner Asch wrote:

I purchased my first digital camera a couple of months ago so no, I didn't.
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John R. Carroll
www.machiningsolution.com
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On Mon, 31 Mar 2008 00:57:06 GMT, "John R. Carroll"

Ah!!
I figured you would have been a long term user of digitals.
Afterall..its the 21st Century, John.
Put away your Dagguratypes and get with the program
<G>
Gunner
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John, Digital Documentation is the greatest! I build a control panel and I snap a whole series of pictures showing all the connections. A customer calls with a problem, you are looking at exactly what he sees.
You take something apart, you snap pictures as you go, so a couple of months later you can put it back together exactly as it was.
Got a problem with a part, email the vendor a picture.
A contractor is marking up drawings as a job progresses and you need to update the as-builts without taking his working set. I toss them on the floor and shoot down at them, giving me a sharp copy of my own, and documenting the progress of the job as well.
The real and very valuable uses are endless.
Gary H. Lucas
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D Murphy wrote:

Dan:
    I'll be sure to give that a try next time I take a picture of a small part. You can't use the flash since it washes out the image. What I've been doing is use a table lamp for lighting. But as the pictures showed, that doesn't work well either. I sometimes do a little contrast and brightness editing in a photo program.
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wrote:

Put a piece or two of asswipe over the strobe. It defuses the light, spreads it out and drops it about 3 stops. Try various layers to get the lighting you like
Gunner
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Not if you want sepia print.
Gary H. Lucas
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On Tue, 1 Apr 2008 00:27:12 +0200 (CEST), alphonso

What..you dont like "sepia tone" pictures?
Gunner
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rip off a white piece of paper, lick it, and stick in over the flash, when using macro mode. If you are a purist, tape it over the flash.
ca
BottleBob wrote:

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wrote:

BottleBob,
For consistent high quality photography on small to medium parts build a "light box". Can be made from common items around the house and/or shop. To use, set camera to "macro mode" and turn flash off.
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/light_box_light_tent
http://www.pbase.com/wlhuber/image/13989420
If building a web page and photographing a few parts it is a great labor saving tool for professional quality photos with little or no editing.
Tom
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http://www.kfh-hermann.de/Storeserver.NET/kfhstore/02/3D%20Edge%20Finder.htm
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/BottleBob_photo/Aero%20Part/AeroPar t.jpg
http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/ee126/BottleBob_photo/Aero%20Part/AeroPar t2.jpg
http://www.machsupport.com/Downloads/SW_Digitising_Probe.pdf
--


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