Back Wired Switches Question ?

| Once asked our electrician (whose state license was #1) why | he never used those back stab connections. It only took was | one bad connection. Any time saved by back stabbing was lost | trying to find that one bad or intermittent connection. He | stopped using back stabbing and always wrapped the wire around | that screw.

What about devices with the screw held clamps? Did he ever try those?

Reply to
phil-news-nospam
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| I've never come across a malfunctioning back wired device...

Neither have I. One reason is I never started using them in the first place. I considered it decades ago when I first saw them. But even then I was more quality oriented, and these devices just flet cheap even if you didn't look at the backstabs.

| you never know where people want to plug in a small space heater other | unforseen load.

Anywhere, it seems.

| I have taken the wires out of them by spinning it either clock/or | counterclock wise, they do not come out that easy, though some have a | small stab slot suggesting it's easier to remove prying there, it can | damage the tension inside the connector.

Snip (the wires) and toss (into the trash) is all that's needed.

That way, they go out about as fast as they go in.

Reply to
phil-news-nospam

Reply to
w_tom

Perhaps you are comparing "back stab" stuff made 20 years ago with the stuff made today.

Seems to me that that problems related to the method are on the order of problems related to the relatively short life of cheap switches and outlets.

There has been plenty of time for UL to respond to REAL problems with the devices.

For truly "new" work, I suppose I would use the screw activated "clamp" devices (like on most GFCIs). For "old" work, I would tend to do whatever is easier at the time: if I have a nicely curved wire end I likely would shape it and slip it under a screw. If I have a "fresh" wire, I would just strip off the 1/2" of insulation and BACK STAB.

Reply to
John Gilmer

In thirty plus years of electrical work I have had far more service calls as a result of failed push in terminations than those caused by bad screw binding connections. I would estimate two to one in favor of back stabbed as the culprit.

-- Tom H

Reply to
Tom Horne

Ah, I orginally thought this too, but after asking an electrician with many years over my experience, what factors can cause a switch to pop "arch sounds" he asked if my switches were 'back stabbed'. Having good switches(manufactur), I realized that how you install them can nullify the quality product you are giving a customer.

So, a 'poping' sound could be an arc jumping the connection of a back stabbed switch, even though it's till functioning correctly. So failure can be hidden.

later,

tom @

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Reply to
The Real Tom

Right?., That's messed up, and that being the case in some backwired devices: How can UL & NEC approve them ? it really falls under workmanship to them i guess, and in tight quarters with box fill maxed-out they can be a tedious venture. =AEoy

From: tom @

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(The=A0Real=A0Tom) On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 17:16:15 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Roy Q.T.) wrote: I've never come across a malfunctioning back wired device... /

Ah, I orginally thought this too, but after asking an electrician with many years over my experience, what factors can cause a switch to pop "arch sounds" he asked if my switches were 'back stabbed'. Having good switches(manufactur), I realized that how you install them can nullify the quality product you are giving a customer. So, a 'poping' sound could be an arc jumping the connection of a back stabbed switch, even though it's till functioning correctly. So failure can be hidden. later, tom @

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\ nevertheless, I've removed many and I too prefer attaching the wires to the screw terminals instead... you never know where people want to plug in a small space heater other unforseen load. I have taken the wires out of them by spinning it either clock/or counterclock wise, they do not come out that easy, though some have a small stab slot suggesting it's easier to remove prying there, it can damage the tension inside the connector. Like a told my last assistant, Electrical Devices and Equipment is finer and lots more delicate than it looks....Give it to a Technician to find it out with minimal damage, anyone going to hard on any of them could lead to permanent irreversible damage and cost you pricey replacements or refitting. Roy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

I usually go about 99-100% arround the screw head and make the lead end of the bare copper touch the opposite side after turning the screew down...

Reply to
Robert Bodling

I hate wrapping the wires around the screws, i usually have to put my longnose on it to curb it around the screw before i tighten it.

=AEoy

Reply to
Roy Q.T.

So, then grab those buggers and do it right.

®oy
Reply to
Robert Bodling

Well, even though ou use the screws on some switches, they still may make a "pop" sound when you flip the switch , the closure of the contacts inside do draw a slight arch as well, but I would still rather use the screws to connect them.

From: tom @

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(The Real Tom) On Sun, 17 Apr 2005 17:16:15 -0400, snipped-for-privacy@webtv.net (Roy Q.T.) wrote: I've never come across a malfunctioning back wired device... /

Ah, I orginally thought this too, but after asking an electrician with many years over my experience, what factors can cause a switch to pop "arch sounds" he asked if my switches were 'back stabbed'. Having good switches(manufactur), I realized that how you install them can nullify the quality product you are giving a customer. So, a 'poping' sound could be an arc jumping the connection of a back stabbed switch, even though it's till functioning correctly. So failure can be hidden. later, tom @

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\ nevertheless, I've removed many and I too prefer attaching the wires to the screw terminals instead... you never know where people want to plug in a small space heater other unforseen load. I have taken the wires out of them by spinning it either clock/or counterclock wise, they do not come out that easy, though some have a small stab slot suggesting it's easier to remove prying there, it can damage the tension inside the connector. Like a told my last assistant, Electrical Devices and Equipment is finer and lots more delicate than it looks....Give it to a Technician to find it out with minimal damage, anyone going to hard on any of them could lead to permanent irreversible damage and cost you pricey replacements or refitting. Roy

Reply to
Robert Bodling

Not fond of having to 'squishing' the wire with needle noses, so with time I have found if you hook it right, with enough stripped off insulation, while you tighten the screw, it draws the wire around the shaft almost 100%

But then there are bad days too.

later,

tom @

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Reply to
The Real Tom

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