GFCI receptacle/ Load Circuit not disconnecting?

I've searched extensively for an explaination of this scenario without success....

I just replaced a GFCI receptacle in an RV that would no longer trip when the test button was pressed. It is located in the bathroom and there are 5 duplex receptacles downstream. When the test button is pressed, the GFCI loses power but the downstream cct. still has power. I have triple checked my wiring and the GFCI is wired correctly and grounded etc.

*scratching head*

Is this a defective GFCI or am I missing something?

Thanks for any advice offered,

Gary

PS. There is one duplex receptacle between the GFCI and the breaker in case that is relevant.

Reply to
gerdman
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Well, check it again!

(If you purchased a NEW device, the wires going "downstream" should be connected to the terminals that are covered with tape when you take the GFCI out of its box.

Also, you may not be correct in the first place about what's upstream and what's downstream.

While the GFCI is not connected (and the wires are "in air") restore power and check which outlets are hot.

And be careful as while you are experimenting you don't have GFCI protection anymore.

A "new" GFCI will not function if "wired backwards."

If you have a cheap VOM, you can just open the breaker. Then you can pull out what you think is the first outlet in the string, disconnect it completly and use registance measurement to determine which neutral goes back to the CB box (that's the one that has near zero resistance to "ground") and which goes elsewhere (that's the one that should be "open" relative to ground.

Definitely start with a brand new "in the box" GFCI. Draw what you think the connections are in you place and then using your VOM verify them. (You can get a VOM for less that $10 at Harbor Freight.)

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Reply to
John Gilmer

....

Uh, then by *definition*, it is *not* wired correctly.

Perhaps the old one used different terminals/markings/etc.. than the new one?

The downstream circuits should only get power *thru* the GFCI. The downstream should *not* be connected to the same terminals of the GFCI as the incoming line (this puts the other outlets on the 'line-side' of the GFCI and gives the symptoms you describe).

The back of a GFCI receptacle is marked 'line' and 'load' terminals. The incoming power should be connected to 'line'. If you reverse the 'line' and 'load', then the downstream receptacles would lose power when the test button is tripped, but the outlet itself would still have power (the GFCI outlet is not protected if you reverse line/load).

Do you still have the instruction sheet? You know what they say, "If all else fails, RTFM."

daestrom

Reply to
daestrom

Firstly, thanks to those who replied.

After checking everything again, I found that the GFCI (which was NIB) had been connected properly. My mistake was in assuming (never assume I know) that an RV would be wired in a logical way. Was I ever wrong lol. With only one line from the breaker, I had assumed that this was one complete series of receptacles with #2-#5 protected by the GFCI. What actually exists is, breaker ->#1, #1->#2(GFCI), #2->#5 which is an outside receptacle. #3 and #4 somehow (I'm not tearing the wall open to find out how either) receive power from the same breaker but not via any of the boxes accessible from inside. I guess this shouldn't surprise me since all 5 breakers were mislabeled from the factory.

Gary

Reply to
gerdman

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