Help using a single button to activate two seperate buttons

Hi,
I'm fairly new to electronics, my end goal is this, i would like to hook up a remote to my brights on my motorbike, one flash activates the
one button on the remote, two flashes activates the second. Each button on the remote is only activated for 0.5 of a second.
I have tried a few different things, all failing. I tried using 2 T Flip flops and an AND gate to activate the second button, but then i had a problem with the first also going off. I also tried using a 555 timer to delay the first going off so i had a chance to flash a second time and stop the timer from activating the first switch, which also failed.
I have a fairly basic knowledge of electronics, and i'm trying to learn, but after searching i still haven't found anything. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Hi Keith, Please could you tell me what you mean by remote (wireless, ir, switch on the handlebar) and what "brights" are. LOL, as you can tell, I don't know much about two wheeled powered vehicles..
Is this what you want ->
Normally both "brights" are off.
I fboth are off, when you press the button and release it, if it isn't pressed again within 1Sec, "brights 1" are powered at the end of that second. If the button is pressed again within 1Sec, "brights 2" are powered immediately.
If "brights 1" are lit, if the button is pressed and released, if it isn't pressed again within 1 Sec, "brights 1" go out and "brights 2" are powered - both at the end of the second. If it is again pressed within the second, both "brights" are powered off immediately.
If "brights 2" are lit, if the button is pressed and released, if it isn't pressed again within 1 Sec, "brights 2" go out and "brights 1" are powered - both at the end of the 1 Second. If it is again pressed within the second, both "brights" are powered off immediately.
--
Sue




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Hi Sue,
Thanks for the reply. That's nearly exactly it, when i press the button though it's leaving the light functions alone but activating a gate remote, in the exact method you said. Except it only activates each button for 0.5 of a second.
I've changed the bits in your statement to reflect my purpose, because i can't seem to articulate my thoughts correctly, i've marked my changes with *'s.

The wiring into the bike is no problem, so for testing i'm using a normal push button (which will be the same on the bike) and the remote which has the two buttons on it.
When B1 is pressed once C1 is closed, when B1 is pressed twice C2 is closed, each is opened after 0.5 seconds. B1---|--------C1 |--------C2
B1 = Button 1 C1 = Circuit 1 C2 = Circuit 2
I hope i gave enough information, if you need anything else, please let me know.
Thanks again for your help.
Palindr☻me wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Sue, > > Thanks for the reply. That's nearly exactly it, when i press the button > though it's leaving the light functions alone but activating a gate > remote, in the exact method you said. Except it only activates each > button for 0.5 of a second. > > I've changed the bits in your statement to reflect my purpose, because > i can't seem to articulate my thoughts correctly, i've marked my > changes with *'s. > > >>Normally both *"buttons" on the remote* are off. >> >>If both are off, when you press the *light button on the bike* and release it, if it isn't >>pressed again within 1Sec, *"button 1 on the remote"* are powered at the end of that >>second. If the button is pressed again within 1Sec, *"button 2 on the remote"* are >>powered immediately. *The button that was activatedd is then deactivated after 0.5 seconds* >> > > > The wiring into the bike is no problem, so for testing i'm using a > normal push button (which will be the same on the bike) and the remote > which has the two buttons on it. > > When B1 is pressed once C1 is closed, when B1 is pressed twice C2 is > closed, each is opened after 0.5 seconds. > B1---|--------C1 > |--------C2 > > B1 = Button 1 > C1 = Circuit 1 > C2 = Circuit 2 > > I hope i gave enough information, if you need anything else, please let > me know. >
I hope that you don't mind me moving your post to the bottom before replying to it - I find a sequence of posts and replies easier to follow that way.
I'm still having difficulties understanding what you are trying to achieve - as I said previously, I know next to nothing about motorcycles or what "brights" are. It reads like you have a momentary switch on the bike which is then linked to provide power to one of two buttons on a "remote" (although what you mean by a remote, I am not sure). Each of the buttons on the remote can then energise a set of "brights", but a maximum of one button works at any time.. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me - probably because I don't have the background to understand what you are trying to achieve, overall.
My starting point for this would be to think of using a small pic. Very low cost and very flexible. You could use an emulator to verify the timing and the sequence. Even after you program the pic - you can re-program it if you weren't happy with the result and, say, wanted longer or shorter timings. It would also take care of all the button debounce, etc. I've gone over to using them extensively.
--
SUe








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Palindr☻me wrote:

Don't mind at all...
I'll explain without the motorbike bit as it's fairly irrelavent. I have a push button, and two seperate circuits. If i push the button once i want the one circuit to be closed for 0.5 seconds, if i push the button twice i want to close the other circuit for 0.5 seconds. If i push the button twice i don't want the first circuit activating though. I have tried using a 4017 IC that might be the route to go? i'm not entirely sure though.
Keith
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

This may be the logic you want:
It has three elements.
The first is a counter. Having debounced the push button, you can use pulses from it to clock the counter. The outputs from the counter would be:
00 <> all off 01 <> circuit 1 energised 10 <> circuit 2 energised 11 <> reset counter to 00
The second element is an output latch. This is connected to the counter outputs but only changes it stored values to the counter content when clocked, by the timer (below).
The third element is a one-shot timer. This is triggered by the counter clock (ie the button). When it times out, it clocks the output latch to update the output store with the counter contents.
You can obviously change the logic, eg so that the output latch is initially zeroed whenever a button is pressed, but then gets the counter contents, as before.
However, rather than the probably 4 or 5 discrete ICs that the above would need - the whole lot could be done in one 8 pin pic..
--
Sue







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Palindr☻me wrote:

Thank you Sue, It's pretty complex for me, i'm still a total noob, but at least im heading in the right direction. I really appreciate all your help.
Regards,
Keith
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Not really that complex - each of the elements will work on their own, is simple and can be easily tested. So, it isn't an "all or nothing" solution. It is also a "single step" design - each press of the button being needed to change state. Just stretch the timer to a few seconds and with a dead cheap logic probe, you will be able to see exactly what is going on.
That is also the approach I use with a pic and design in general - lots of small routines that can be tested individually and then joined together with a simple main program of half a dozen lines or so.
--
Sue

















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Palindr☻me wrote:

Well i'm looking into the PIC route and it's definitely the way i'm going to go, i'll go pick one up tomorrow, and build a programmer at the same time.
Thanks so much for all your help Sue.
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wrote:

Sue, "brights" are the high beam lights.
sQuick..
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sQuick wrote:

LOL, thanks. I did wonder if they were, but didn't know that motorbikes came with two and couldn't understand why anyone would want to switch them on and off remotely.
Mind you, if anyone would come up with a system that would allow me to switch approaching car's "brights" off...non-destructively, that is.
--
Sue



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