Water heaters are normally thermostatically controlled.
The downside is that it will run at 75% of rated power,
and therefore take 33% longer to get up to temperature.
The upside is that the electrical parts will probably
last longer than they would at 240V.
Another thing to check is that there isn't any other type
of load other than the heater. For example, if there's a
relay/contactor anywhere performing the high current
switching, or a timeswitch, these items may not work
properly on reduced voltage.
No, with less power it will take longer to recover so your available
gallons/liters of hot water at a given temperature over a given period
of time will be much less.
Just swap the element assembly out, it's usually not a big deal-- they
are maintenance items.
So it takes 33% longer to heat a given tankful of water. If demand is high,
this can be a problem. Otherwise it may not be.
Dealers choice- rate of heating vs cost of replacing the element.
For the last 14 years my (240v) HW system has run on voltages from around 205 to
220 due to a lousy elecricity supply - 1st HW heater lasted 9 years, (bad water
too) and the replacement is still going strong.
David - who gets really annoyed when the volts drop so low his microwave can
hardly boil water
Esther & Fester Bestertester wrote:
If your "lousy electrcity supply" is due to the public utility, scream
until they respond and fix it. However if the voltage drop is inside
your residence, call an electrician immediately and turn off the water
heater or keep the phone number of the fire department nearby.
Thanks for the warning, but it is to do with the external supply - 400+ metres
the tranny to my house results in a big drop when any heavy loads are on. I've
complaining for years but their solution is for me to pay for a new pole nearer
the house on which they will mount the tranny - but I will not wear that so I am
still working on them to do it FOC
David - who doesn't give up too easy **THE-RFI-EMI-GUY** wrote:
? "quietguy" ??????
Yes, but is 400 m too far away?
220 volts->max.1km (low voltage)
15kV->max 60 km (medium voltage)
150 kV->max 220 km?(high voltage)
400 kV->max 500 km?(extra high voltage)
There are also power limitations-due to wire gauge (in LV) and in MV,in HV
there are propagation and stability isssues.Has your utility checked your
major in electrical engineering
mechanized infantry reservist
dimtzort AT otenet DOT gr
| Thanks for the warning, but it is to do with the external supply - 400+ metres
| the tranny to my house results in a big drop when any heavy loads are on.
| complaining for years but their solution is for me to pay for a new pole
| the house on which they will mount the tranny - but I will not wear that so I
| still working on them to do it FOC
Add a 2nd tranny at the original pole and wire in series to get double the
voltage. Add a dry tranny at the house to drop the voltage back down to
normal. You'll get 1/4 the voltage drop that way. Just make sure the
service drop wires can handle the double voltage (most can go to 600V).
Kind of hard to beleive that it is 400M to nearest pole. Are you on a
mid-span tap? I was able to convince FP&L to add a pole and avoid a
midspan tap. They wanted me to run the drop across the property
diagnally to still another pole and that would have precluded having a
raised deck and a pool due to clearances. I talked them into it.
Dropping a pole is not a huge expense. In your case they are providing
you poorly regulated service. You should make a stink.
"quietguy" wrote in
I thought I had a long run (440') but you have me beat by a factor of three.
(BTW: I never had problems with "droop" yet the power company (after
several failures of the underground feed) installed a new drop with much
larger cables. (Don't know the numbers.)
Thanks for the ideas but i am not prepared to pay to have this fixed - I didn't
choose to have the
xformer where it is, and I didn't select the wire gauge etc. As southern elect
made those (wrong)
choices I reckon they can damn well fix it at their cost
Well no. I have a pole near the house, another pole about 30 metres away which
houses the elec meters
etc, then the line goes from that pole 400metres to a xformer on a pole near the
I had the line from the meter-containing-pole to the house upgraded when I
installed an offpeak HWS, and
had a new switchboard etc installed at that time
Nope - the line just comes from the pole near the road to my house.
Yep, if I remember correctly (and there is lots of doubt about that
these days) one electricity guy suggested that some time ago - but said
I would have to pay for the new poles - bugger that I reckon
PS: I do however wonder about the wisdom of extending high voltage lines
across a farm - even with the 240v lines some guys kill themselves when
they forget to check overhead when using tip trucks, augers etc.
But perhaps it wouldn't be any more of a hazard - any views on this?