Wiring a 50 amp 4 conductor 220V single phase plug with tray cable

Gentlemen,
I would appreciate some help with a wiring project. I have a new 200 amp single phase rural service for which I'm wiring service to an RV.
The project involves wiring a 50 amp 4 wire 220 amp plug into the 200 amp main panel mounted to my meter pole. The plug will be housed in a rain proof box. The box will be mounted to the pole just below the 200 amp main panel.
I bought some AWG NO. FOUR tray cable. It contains 3 insulated conductors with bare ground (4 conductors). I have never used tray cable before. Upon peeling back the outer insulation I discovered to my surprise that the individual conductors are not color coded. Rather, they are all black and are labeled ONE, TWO, and THREE in white letters along the length of the individual insulated conductors.
My question is: Is there some accepted NEC "standard" designation for the two hots and the white? Or do I just arbitrarily assign ONE as red, TWO as black, and THREE as white (or whatever?) Call me a chicken but I find it unnerving that the conductors are not color coded.
Thanks!
Vernon
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Vernon wrote:

Do your own color coding with colored tape. That is what the "professionals" do anyway. :-) ...lew...
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Vernon wrote:

Sounds like three phase cable. L1, L2, L3 & neutral. Use 'Phase tape' to color code the wires.
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wrote:

Michael,
Indeed it is. I was able to determine that on google. I have decided to go in alphabetical order: black red white. Therefore, black = 1; red = 2; white = 3.
Thanks to all.
Vernon
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Single phase service in the US is Phase 1(120V), Phase 2(120V), Neutral and safety earth. Safety earth is NOT supposed to be carrying any current. It is a safety path only. all your 120 volt return current should be using Neutral. Tray cable must be housed in conduit of some description for both physical protection and corrosion reasons. Steve
wrote:

Michael,
Indeed it is. I was able to determine that on google. I have decided to go in alphabetical order: black red white. Therefore, black = 1; red = 2; white = 3.
Thanks to all.
Vernon
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    [ ... ]

    [ ... ]

    Hmm ... I would be skewed by the resistor color codes:
0    Black 1    Brown 2    Red (you hit that one, at least) 3    Orange 4    Yellow 5    Green 6    Blue 7    Violet 8    Gray    (sometimes called Slate to avoid having two starting          with 'G') Of course, you still have three starting          with 'B'. :-) 9    White
    Your colors are in numerical order using that system anyway. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

Shame on you DoN, SHAME! You can't expect the non-eletronics types to learn our secret technician's code!
You also left out Silver & Gold. ;-)
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    [ ... ]

    I can't tolerate those. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

That's why they were replaced by a number on SMD ;-)
BTW, I wrote a couple Javascripts for assemblers who are too lazy to learn the codes for SMD resistors & capacitors.
Here is the one for SMD capacitors:
<http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/ID/SMD_caps.html
Apparently Earthlink has deleted both the three & four digit resistor scripts, again. :(
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    [ ... ]

    Interesting! I've not worked with SMDs so I had not realized the system that they used. Looks like 10% values represented by a letter, followed by a digit as the exponent for the multiplier.

    Why?
BTW    I remember once (on graveyard shift) having a "planner"     (glorified stock clerk) looking all over for a RC20GF007J. When     he expressed doubt that such a thing existed (after some time     looking), I showed him a (hand painted) RC42GF007J. He knew how     the color codes translated into the part number -- but had no     idea what they meant. :-)
    Enjoy,         DoN.
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"DoN. Nichols" wrote:

My guess is that they restored the site from an out of date backup, since those were the last items added to the site. Either that, or they were deleted because some idiot claimed they were spyware or something. I had one idiot claim that the javascript that set the copyright date was spyware, even though it only reads the copyright date from a file on the server and prints it on the bottom of the screen.
I had another 'free' personal website on Earthlink that lost almost everything more than once, so I just deleted it. I am looking into paid hosting for my collection of manuals & schematics.

No surprise there. I went through that with assemblers, too. Luckily, purchasing had done a decent job of buying only printed values on leaded 1% resistors. Only older stock had color codes.
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"Denis G." wrote:

Carbon or metal?
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wrote:

Sputter, sputter.... I'm not sure!?!
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"Denis G." wrote:

Thanks for playing, "EE". Better luck next time! ;-)
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Vernon
One reply is correct about the cable you have being primarily for 3 phase. Another reply is correct in that you will be required by the NEC to color code the exposed wires. Exposed from the cable covering. I would use the bare conductor as the ground and label it green. Number one would be white as in the neutral wire. And 2 and 3 black and red.
I have some problem with your choice of mounting the "plug" in the box. I think you mean receptacle in this case and the cord from the RV, with a plug, will be connected to the receptacle. If the receptacle and/or service panel are outside they both need to be raintight. And the tray cable needs to be weather proof cable. Which it might or might not be.
Be sure that the RV is wired for two hots and the hots are 110 to ground AND 220 from each other. SINGLE PHASE. OR each hot 110 to ground and also the same hot in the panel. 2 each 110 volt 50 amp branch circuits in a single cable. May or not be NEC correct. Check with your AHJ if there is one.
Bob AZ
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I am not an Electrician. I do, however own an RV. All of the RV outlets I have seen are 110Volt.
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Then you have only seen 30 amp (NEMA 30-TT) and 15 amp (house standard)
The 50 Amp service for RVs is, indeed a 220 service (NEMA 14-50)
See http://www.dasplace.net/RVWiring/wiring.html
Many RV dealers sell a "converter" plug system that converts an RV drop, that only has 30 amp and 15 amp outlets. They -hope- that the drop is wired with the 30amp on one leg and the 15amp on the other.
I do not recommend buying them
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Ralph E Lindberg submitted this idea :

This thread is titled 220 volts and talks about 110 volts. I thought the standard for some time has been 120/240 volts on the archeic Edison system you use there.
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John, Both WYE and DELTA systems are used everywhere. However the WYE system is what is delivered to residences in the US. The difference between Europe and the US is that the secondary winding of the delivery transformer is center tapped for neutral The voltage between the center tap and either end of the secondary winding is 120 Volts. The voltage of the transformer end to end is 240 volts. Both systems are viable. Neither one is older than the other.
To put this thread into context, Vernon, by bringing in 4 wires, is connecting to the top of the secondary, the bottom of the secondary, the center tap of the secondary and safety earth. This provides 2 120 volt circuits as well as provide 240 volts if required, because the phase angle between the top and bottom of the secondary transformer winding is 180 degrees. Steve
wrote:

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