Hi guys a friend of my husbands gave me an old 5 horse electric motor single
phase 220 volts. It has no wiring diagram with it. there are 4 wires
(black) in a metal box mounted on the side of the motor. Two of the black
wires have an extra band of tape on them. If I take an meter to one of the
banded wires and one of the not banded wires I get a short and the same
thing with the other two. So would I take both banded wires to one side of
the 220 and the other two not banded wires to the other side of the 220 or
do they go in series
I don't want to burn it out before I get to use it
4 wires, might mean dual voltage, 220-230 volts.
Check each wire to the case. if any are "shorted" then throw the motor away.
You should be able to read some ohmic value with the pairs of wires. not
lastly you could try connecting the banded together and use the other two
for the phases.
No telling what will result, you might let the magic out. I made an suicide
cord that I use for these opportunities. It has fuse holder in line that I
can adjust for each situation.
I know this sounds like a throwaway answer but google every number on that
motor plate. There is a good chance you will find a wiring diagram. Also poke
around on the manufacturer's web site. There are a number of possible answers
but you don't want to blow up your motor on a wrong guess before you look a
little. My guess is it is the leads to the capacitor (taped) but that is just a
wild assed guess. I also don't have a clue what the capacitor size might be.
This probably hooks to a motor starter assembly, not just a switch. You may
need one for overload protection among other things.
Thanks guys I tried to do a search on Goooooogle but I think this company is
long gone the motor was made by Jones & Moore Electric On the label
that's all I can make out other than its 220 volt and single phase. I took
a plate off the end of the motor and both sets of wires go to a coil. So
I'm still unsure of how to hook it up I think I will have to seek a
professional opinion. Thanks again
this company is
On the label
single phase. I took
to a coil. So
Buy a 20 dollar ohm meter.... then check each bare lead to the
frame of the motor..any read at all means the motor is shorted
if its not burned out, hook up the wires in various
combinations and check the ohm reading between the two
remaining bare leads... do this until you get the highest ohm
reading. should be in the 4 to 7 ohm range.
Then supply those two leads with 220 volts. Have an amp
meter clamped around one of the supply wires... it should read
a few amps while sitting on the bench with no load, run
smoothly and sound OK. Home depot has clamp around amp
meters for 40 dollars.... Harbor freight has them for 20
If that checks out OK the motor is probably fine. Attach it
to your load... look in a motor catalog for the amperage a 5
hp single phase 220vac motor draws... my guess is that FLA
(full load amps) not LRA...but FLA is in the 20 to 25 amp
range at full load.
My wild guess on your application is that it will be half HP
or less and the motor will run a lot less amperage...and thats
If thats the case use #8 wire to power it, from a 30 amp
every number on that
before you look
(taped) but that is
capacitor size might
a switch. You
From your description I would say the 4 wires are the ends of 2 coils, a
start and a run winding, They do this because single phase doesn't have the
"chasing effect" that is required to start the motor from rest, so without
that start winding the motor would just sit there and humm on the bench
until you give the shaft a quick spin, then the motor would run up to full
On some motors they switch out the start winding when the motor gets up to
speed, you will hear a click of the centrifugal switch when you power up the
motor also some motors they just leave the start winding in all the time.
Pick the pair with the lowest (Highest? anyone confirm?) resistance then add
220 volts and then give the shaft a quick spin in either direction, just
keep your fingers out of the way.
Oh and P.S Make sure the damn thing is properly earthed for safety.
On Tue, 30 Nov 2004 14:29:51 -0500, Nikki put forth the notion that...
It's probably a reversible motor. One pair is your start windings, and
the other is the run windings. I'd parallel both pairs and flip the
switch. It's either going to start, trip a breaker, or make god-awful
sounds, in which case you switch it off immediately. This shouldn't
hurt it at all, as long as you don't allow it to do anything unnatural
for more than a second or two.
This motor also has brushes but not like I've seen it other motor usually
you see them at the end of the shaft on the side. This one has four brushes
right at the end and the contacts are not on the side of the shaft they are
on like a plate that is facing the back but there are no wires that I can
see going to any of the brushes
Its a motor and the heaviest motor I've ever handled. It says 5hp on it I
can make out single phase and 220 every thing else is warn off the name
plate. The manufactures name is on it, made by Jones and Moore Electric
company. I did a google search on that but could not find anything.
You might want to look in the yellow pages for a motor shop. Big motors like
that get fixed, not tossed so there are people who can tell you what you have
and how to wire it. It is a shame to trash a good motor "smoke testing" it.
Even in sleepy old Ft Myers Fla we have a couple places and those guys have
already been good to me. Just be patient, they may be grumpy at first.
That sounds like an old repulsion-induction motor. These were used years ago
because they give a good starting torque without drawing too much current.
When the thing is starting pairs of those brushes are shorted and contact
the commutator, causing it to start as a repulsion motor. After it is up to
speed there as a mechanism inside the commutator that shorts out all the
segments, causing it to run as an induction motor. Usually, there is also a
mechanism to lift the 4 brushes you saw so they don't wear while the motor
Take it to a motor shop for advice, a single phase motor like that will cost
many hundreds of dollars to replace, even paying the shop 50 bucks to clean
it up and mark the leads will be a good deal.