I have an electric motor from a Maytag washer that I would like to make
into a vertical sander.
Here are the specs:
FSP PN 3349643
E113 Model C67PXEGH-3482
MFG DATE 241A9
1/2 HP 115 Volts 9.3 Amps
60 Hz 1725 RPM
It has a wiring harness that I think controled some of the other
washing machine functions. All I want to do is put on an electrical
cord with an on/off switch and a plug. I am not an electrician and need
I hope there is someone who can help. Any other questions please
Thank you so much, Mike
The wires coming out of the motor are: black, black/white, blue,
The wires coming out of the harness connector are:
white/black, blue, yellow, green, white, red
It looks like only three of them match up. What next?
This sounds like an unpleasantly complex motor. I'm guessing that it's a
capacitor run motor with several different windings to permit different
speeds, but I don't know exactly what the connections are.
Do you have a capacitor which goes with the motor? If you do, the next
step is to measure the resistance between every pair of wires which
leave the motor. The lowest resistance winding will usually be the main
high speed winding, and the next lowest the capacitor-fed winding (which
is connected in series with the capacitor). There is usually a common
wire to which one end of every winding is connected.
If you don't have the capacitors, call Maytag and see if they can sell
you the correct one. This at least gives you a starting point so you
don't have to guess at the capacitor value.
A good book on this subject is "Electric Motors in the Home Workshop" by
Actually he's dealing with a different animal than a standard motor.
Fortunately for him (if it's a older Maytag motor) he doesn't need a
start switch (which is separate on many washing machines).
Ok first off lets be sure we're talking about the same thing here.
There should be a box on the back of the motor (actually it's a switch
connected to the centrifugal setup inside the motor). It will have
push on terminals. Depending on what machine it came out of it will
have at the very least a reversing setup (Maytags use reversing of the
motor to change from agitate to spin) and fancier machines will have a
two speed setup. I can't recall off the top of my head what each
terminal is (I usually figure it out each time with a ohm meter but
that takes experience). One will be a common terminal. Then another
will be forward, another reverse, etc. On two speed machines it gets
more complicated in that you have to apply power to both the speed you
want and the start terminal (sometimes you have to do this on single
speed units as well). The fact is you need to hunt up a wiring diagram
for the washing machine it came out of (there was probably one in the
machine it was taken out of if you have that handy). That's the
simplest way to figure these out.
I'll probably catch a lot of flack for saying it but my experience
is that it's not that big a problem. I've got one on my 1" wide belt
sander that's been running for 15 years now. I did have to take a
bearing off one end a while back and lube it (it locked down after 14
years of use). I had one on a sander like the original poster is
talking about for a long time as well but it never saw as much use as
my 1" sander has (which is a LOT).
I would GUESS (but only a guess) that two of the wires are the LINE
voltage wires and correspond to the black and white (hot and neutral)
coming from an outlet. I would also GUESS that one of the other wires
is a starter wire, i.e., when both the hot and neutral are energized and
current is applied to the starter wire MOMENTARILY, the start windings
are engaged and the motor spins up to "run" RPM. The remaining wire
could be a reversing LINE wire, that is, if substituted for one of the
original LINE wires, the motor runs the other way, or, it could be a
slower speed LINE wire, that is, if substituted for one the original
line wires the motor runs slower. Does the motor tag mention 2 speeds
I'll agree with Chris Tidy's method of of trying to determine which
wires are for the high speed run windings, etc. There was an article in
Home Shop Machinist about using motors of unknown origin and how to wire
them up. If you want, I could probably find it and send you an email
copy. I've played around with washing machine motors with mixed success.
Since they're usually free, sometimes you just have to toss one and go
on to another that you can figure out.
For what it's worth, the FSP in the model number means that this is a
Whirlpool motor. Doesn't Whirlpool own Maytag now?
WOW! Thank you all for the info. I did not realize this was going to be
a major project. Like I said, I am not an electrician and have no
experience with motors.
I apprecfiate all the help you are giving me.
Gary, if you could email me a copy of the article tha would be great.
Just a question: are there any kind of motors out there that are simple
to use and easy to wire?
You guys are great.Thanks.
W> pookie03 wrote:
Easiest motors to deal with are the 'general purpose' fractional HP
motors. These will come in 1750 or 3450 rpm, have a flat base to mount
with, better ones are dual 120/240 volts and/or reversible. For sanders
and grinders, the TEFC (Totally enclosed fan cooled) style is preferred.
Try here for a start:
Yup, sometime in the last few decades they've gone from standard-frame
motors to purpose-built ones with just enough material in them to last
the life of the appliance. Stamped sheetmetal frames and wimpy
windings. Not really worth the time of building a machine tool around
them, they probably won't last if taken out of a dead appliance. Since
they're very open frame, they won't last any time at all if exposed to
sawdust or grinding dust. With older appliances, you can sometimes
salvage a motor that's worth refurbing and using, I've still got some
from my grandfather's stash that are worth messing with. Standard ball
bearings and starting caps, too. Unless you're really hard up, don't
mess with motors that don't have standard NEMA frames or mounting
Thank you all for the replies.
My neighbor told me that there is a capacitor that is used to start the
motor. I salvaged one from the washing machine. It has 2 red wires.
Now what my friends???
Now get a multimeter and set it to the resistance range. Measure the
resistance between each pair of your five wires. You'll probably find
that one wire is a common termination to which one end of each motor
winding is connected. This should be connected to the neutral wire of
your electricity supply. Before you do this, identify the lowest
resistance winding and the second lowest resistance winding. Connect the
other end of the lowest resistance winding to the live wire of your
supply. Connect the other end of the second lowest resistance winding to
one wire of your capacitor, and connect the other wire of your capacitor
to the live wire of your supply.
Take care. Don't operate your motor with live terminals exposed. Use
proper terminal blocks and wrap them with insulating tape before your
tests. Make sure your motor is unplugged before you modify the circuit.
Short the terminals of your capacitor with an insulated screwdriver
every time you start work on the circuit. In this configuration the
capacitor should discharge itself through the windings, but I was once
experimenting with a rather complex motor like the one you describe and
somehow the capacitor held charge. It gave me a pretty unpleasant shock
- not an experience I'd like to repeat.
Let us know how it works out.
Get an ohmmeter that will do low ohms and read the windings .
Does it have a speed switch ? If it does not , it will only be
a good fan motor .
The winding with the higher ohms is a start winding , series
the cap to it and parallel it to run winding and it will run .
The switch should open the
Thanks Werty, but as I said before, I know nothing about the workings
of motors. The questions you asked and the answers you gave really did
not help me. (understand)
Sorry for being so anal about this but never had the opportunity to
snipped-for-privacy@swiss> Get an ohmmeter that will do low ohms and read the windings .