Resolution to fluorescent fixture problem

The wattage of the lamp is only half the story. Narrow diameter tubes are typically run at lower current, so to get the same wattage the tube is designed to drop a higher voltage. The starter is sized to match the voltage of the lamp, and the wattage printed on the starter is for the lamp types it is typically used with.

Glad to hear you got it working, it's always nice to fix something, especially when it is not really designed to be fixed.

And it's good to have the followthru to let folks know how things turned out.

We all learned something, now if you had put a multimeter on it and measured currents, I would have learned a little more. We'll show those darn disposable society types! *snicker*

TDD

Sorry to disappoint you.

As I noted in one of my replies dealing with this problem, I did not measure voltages or currents because I could not find on the web (and no one who replied in these groups provided) any details of electrical specifications that would have helped me decide which standard starter's glow bulb to select for the circuit in my fixture. Someone suggested trying the FS-4's glow bulb because they said it had approx. double the voltage rating of the FS-2 and I had written that the FS-2 glow bulb in this circuit caused continuous flickering. In addition, I wasn't sure that the only electrical tool on my workbench (a 1960's era VOM rated 10K ?/V AC) would have provided a meaningful measurement.

Or survive the measurement.

Experimentation found a solution, if I remember correctly, Edison went through a whole lot of stuff before finding a suitable material for a light bulb filament. Consider yourself to be a successful experimenter.

TDD