Steel and ash warhammer with a re-tempered head

Oct 16, 2026 Last reply: 3 hours ago 3 Replies
Jump to replies (3)

The hardest part of this build seems to have been the heat treat. The head first came out in the 55 to low 60 HRC range, which the maker judged too high, so the head was re-tempered down to 50/55 HRC, with another tempering pass still planned. That is a sensible way to handle it in my view: a striking head that is too brittle is a real risk, and catching it before anyone gets hurt shows good judgement. The listed hardness on the post still reads 55/60, so the numbers there are slightly out of date compared with the re-tempered state.



The hammer itself is a long war pick style piece with a fabricated head on an ash shaft, made from 1041 DIN steel, and it weighs 1.2 kg. Six hours of work is a short time for a result like this. The head has a square striking face with a cross-hatched texture up front and a curved, pointed spike at the rear. Along the handle neck there are metal support plates held in place with pins, which looks like a neat way to reinforce that junction.



The fitting of the head is done the traditional way: a hard wood wedge in the middle, two round wedges, and some nails. The shaft carries charred tiger-stripe scorch marks as decoration, and the grip section is wrapped for holding.



The trade-off worth watching is the hardness question. Even after re-tempering, the maker intends to temper it again, so the final value is still open. As a proof of toughness, the hammer has already punched through 2 mm sheet steel with no damage to the head.


The pinned support plates along the handle neck are the detail that stands out to me. That junction takes a lot of stress on a long hammer, and plates secured with pins should spread the load better than relying on the shaft alone. The trade-off is extra fitting work, but at six hours total the maker clearly kept the whole build efficient anyway.

How were the tiger-stripe scorch marks on the ash shaft applied? I keep picturing a few different ways to get that striped charred pattern, and the result looks sharp, so I would like to know the method before I attempt something similar on my own handle work.

One change I would suggest: swap the two round wedges for flat metal wedges alongside the wood wedge. Flat wedges lock the head against the eye more evenly in my opinion, and combined with the nails already in place it would add a second layer of retention without touching anything else on this build.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required