ok from what point to what point do I use to measure for a spanner wrench? I need a hook type for my LeBlond but have no idea where to measure. Is it just from one slot to the next one or somewhat past the second?
Thanks,
Paul Baygents Reno
The wrench wraps around about 1/3 of the circumference of your draw nut. I don't know the size for L0, easiest way to measure is to carefully wrap a tape measure around to get the circumference and then divide by pi.
The type of spanner you need is a fixed hook, go to
I don't recommend making your own or using a different style as the consequences are higher for damaging the nut, that would be a bad thing... Have to take apart the whole headstock. Same deal, don't just try to drift it loose with a punch and hammer.
BTW the nut has regular right-hand threads, so to remove the chuck you turn the nut clockwise facing the spindle. The nut will break loose in a small fraction of a turn. Then you spin it free until the back of the nut bottoms out against the headstock casting, and then use the wrench once again, it's this step that will actually break the chuck loose from the taper. Then as you slide off the chuck, keep turning the nut by hand until the nut is free of the threads on the back of the chuck.
I recall your new lathe has something like a 12" chuck on it, so block up some wood on the ways to support the chuck at spindle height to make it easier to remove ... and to keep it from falling. It'll be pretty heavy and can hurt you or the lathe if it gets out of control.
If your lathe is under power, shift it into the lowest speed first.
I don't know what "official" practice is, but I hit the wrench with a block of wood both to tighten and loosen. I suppose a soft hammer would also be OK but not a steel hammer.
Bob
Yep, soft hammer's fine. Excellent advice, Bob.
Harold
Right before removing a 3 or 4 jaw chuck, I chuck a foot-long piece of 3/4" hard pipe in it to provide a helping handle upon removal of the chuck. I have a plywood base with two side-by-side pieces of 2x4 with curved cuts attached that match the curve and height of the chuck, minus a 1/16". It is placed on the ways, chuck is removed, plywood and chuck slid to the right, then I place my hip into the side of the chuck with my left hand into the rear of the chuck and my right hand on the "handle". A step to the left, along with a 180 degree rotation of the body places the chuck on the receiving workbench behind me. A flip of the wrist places the chuck on it's back. The handle is great for wiggling the chuck into alignment upon re-installation onto the lathe. I use a hammer with a hard face plastic to tighten the nut with a spanner. This method really saves on fingers, ways, and the back. I can remove my chuck safely in around 30 seconds or less using this method. Re-installation takes about a minute, due to lining up the threads, and double checking everything.
RJ
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