Grinding tungsten

I have just spent about 5 minutes "polishing" the grit on my angle grinder, trying to sharpen the bits on a post hole borer, and I barely managed to remove the oxide layer on the bits.

The grinding wheel looked like a mirror. This stuff is HARD (and possibly cloggy, although the amount I removed would not have clogged much). It appears to be much harder than the TCT tips on my chainsaws, for which I use a diamond "pin-grinder" in a dremel-like device.

So. I saw one ad that said that diamond blades will do the job. But when I rang the hardware store, they had 100mm diamond blades from $7

- $70, and none said "can do tungsten". Obviously for this I would avoid the $7 ones, but does anyone have an idea about a $27 one? Or do I have to spend $70?

The bits cost $25 each and there are 7 of them, so you can see my incentive. I have lots of rock to do, so I would like the idea of the odd touch-up of the bits, as this can only help driling speed.

On the other hand, these bits _may_ be a near lifetime investment.

Thanks for any help/advice.

**************************************************** remove ns from my header address to reply via email

I went on a guided tour not long ago.The guide got us lost. He was a non-compass mentor.........sorry ........no I'm not.

Reply to
Old Nick
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Because you are grinding tungsten CARBIDE, not tungsten metal. Or more accurately, you're grinding a tungsten carbide/cobalt cermet. ;)

Tim

-- "I have misplaced my pants." - Homer Simpson | Electronics,

Reply to
Tim Williams

Old Nick wrote: (Snip)

I use:

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point my TIG tungstens. They work very fast.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

I use:

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both tig tungstens and tungsten carbide toolbits (with a silicon carbide wheel). I get a mirror finish on the tig tungstens and very fast.

They go on sale for $120 fairly often.

Would a silicon carbide grinding wheel on a standard bench grinder get you where you need to be? I've tried grinding tungsten carbide on an aluminum oxide wheel and all it does is mess up the wheel and polish the tungsten carbide. Silicon carbide worked fine though.

StaticsJason

Reply to
Statics

But keep your green wheel for tungsten only ,don't waste it on other materials like HSS. Gerry :-)} London, Canada

Reply to
Gerald Miller

On Sun, 4 Apr 2004 18:11:37 -0500, "Statics" vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Ok. HF are not much use to me. US and I am in Oz.

But the message appears to be Silicon Carbide.

Thank you.

**************************************************** I went on a guided tour not long ago.The guide got us lost. He was a non-compass mentor.........sorry ........no I'm not.
Reply to
Old Nick

Silicon carbide for roughing and a fine aluminum oxide for finishing.

Reply to
Ernie Leimkuhler

On Wed, 07 Apr 2004 07:20:20 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler vaguely proposed a theory ......and in reply I say!: remove ns from my header address to reply via email

Ok. Thanks. I rang a specialist shop today and they confirmed that. They were a bit worried about the SiC being the rough one.

I don't knowm that chewing rocks is going to need that finial polish!

Interestingly, the SiC disks for my angle frinder are only about $1 each!

The shop guy said that he was concerned about using diamond blades, as they are easy to damage in a hend-held setup. Given that he could sell me a diamond blade for the price of 20-30 SIC wheels, I will take his word!

**************************************************** I went on a guided tour not long ago.The guide got us lost. He was a non-compass mentor.........sorry ........no I'm not.
Reply to
Old Nick

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