Just wrapped up a little EDC fixed blade for my own pocket rotation

Nov 08, 2026 Last reply: 1 day ago 3 Replies
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Been picking at this one for a few months between other projects and I finally forced myself to finish it last night. It's a small drop point meant for everyday carry, forged from 1084 since I had a bar of it sitting around and it's easy to heat treat in my setup. Went with a hollow grind this time to keep the cutting edge thin, then gave the blade a stonewash finish because I got tired of seeing scratches on my last satin blade the day after I made it. The handle is rosewood, shaped by hand and pinned over a full tang, sanded down and oiled til it felt right in my grip. Stitched up a leather sheath to go with it and wet-formed it around the blade so there's no rattle. That part always takes longer than I plan for but the fit is snug this time.



Weighed everything out of curiosity and the blade comes in at 97g, whole knife around 144g, so it carries light on the belt. Total length is about 17.8cm with a 9.1cm edge, 4mm thick. Skinny little thing but I think it'll get a lot of use. Feels good to have one in the rotation that I made start to finish.


That weight sounds about right for a knife that size. My daily carry ended up heavier than I wanted at first because I went too thick on the stock, 5mm instead of 4, and the balance sat too far forward for slicing work. The next one I made from the same batch of 1084 came out much better and I use it constantly now for boxes, apples, whatever needs cutting around the house. Stonewash is a smart call. I spent ages hand-sanding one blade to a nice satin finish only to have it look rough within a week of pocket carry, and I never bothered again after that. The stonewash hides all of it and I actually like how it ages. Rosewood is a good pick for a working handle too. I tried G10 once and while it is tough, the wood just feels warmer in the hand, especially in winter. I finish mine with straight walnut oil and reapply a coat every few months. The wet-formed sheath is the part I still struggle with. Mine always ends up a hair too loose on the first attempt and I have to re-wet and re-form it. Do you let the leather dry on the blade or do you pull it early? I have had good luck pulling it while still slightly damp and burnishing the edge right then.

Funny how we all land on diffrent finishes for the same problem. I gave up on satin years ago too, but I went the acid-etched route instead of stonewash after trying both on a couple of 1084 blades. The etch hides scratches just as well and I find it easier to touch up, since a few passes on a strop brings the edge back without messing up the look. Stonewash always seemed to need the whole blade re-tumbled to look right again once it got chewed up.

I'm also a flat grind guy for small carry knives rather than hollow. My hollow ground one had a lovely thin edge but the grind plate kept the blade riding fat in a potato, if that makes sense. The flat ground one just bites better in food and cardboard.

On the sheath side, I stopped wet-forming mine and started adding a thin leather liner instead. Takes maybe ten minutes extra and the blade slides in nice and slow, no snagging the welt. My last one is going on three years of daily pocket and belt duty with no rattle at all. That rosewood handle sounds like it'll darken up nicely with hand oil over the first few months. Mine went from pale to a deep brown inside a summer.

I'm pretty new here so hope this is okay to jump in on. I've only finished one knife so far and it was from an old file, no forging involved, but reading this makes me want to try a proper bar of steel next. The leather sheath part is what scares me most honestly. I've never stitched anything in my life. Question for anyone who knows, can you get away with gluing the welt instead of stitching it for a first attempt, or is that just asking for it to come apart after a few weeks on the belt?

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