Tiny fixed blade with a palm-filling handle

Oct 10, 2026 Last reply: 2 hours ago 4 Replies
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Most fixed-blade projects here chase length, so a knife this small makes a nice change of pace. The maker went the other way entirely: the handle runs about as long as the blade itself, and the whole thing is small enough to sit in a palm. It is cut from steel labeled 80CrV2, which seems a sensible pick for a working edge in this size class, in my view.



The build itself follows a solid shop flow. A hand-drawn paper sketch was cut out and glued onto the plate as a template, then an angle grinder took the shape down to rough form and a belt sander cleaned up the profile. Blue layout fluid went down before hole marking, a center punch set the positions, and a drill press cut the handle holes. A digital height gauge marked the center line on the edge, and a grinding jig held the blade for the primary bevels, with the edge itself refined freehand on a contact wheel. Hardening ran at 850 degrees, followed by an oil quench and a temper at 200.



The details that stand out to me are the finishing touches. Two wood scales sandwich two pieces of red liner material, and a thin red line shows between blade and handle, which reads as a deliberate accent against the dark etched blade. Five small black pins secure the finished handle, set with epoxy, and the handle was shaped after the glue cured, then polished on a buffing wheel and smoothed by hand. A small sharpening choil at the heel is a tidy touch on a blade this size.



One thing left hanging: a file was used to check edge hardness after the quench, but the outcome of that check is not reported anywhere, so that part stays an open question for anyone curious about the heat treat.



Project by AVmake. Watch it on their YouTube channel:

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Using a grinding jig for the primary bevels on a blade this small strikes me as a smart call. Short blades give you very little travel to keep a grind even, so the jig buys consistency where it matters most. The trade-off is less of the maker's own hand in the bevels, though the freehand work on the contact wheel for the edge more than makes up for that in my eyes.

How were the hole positions in the wooden scales kept accurate to the tang? Drilling scaled-up holes slightly off on a handle this short would show badly with five pins lined up in a row. Was it marked straight off the steel, or measured out separately?

The blade itself guided the drilling through the scales, so the holes follow the tang directly rather than a separate layout. Before that, blue layout fluid was applied and a center punch marked the hole positions in the handle section, and a drill press did the drilling. That chain of steps explains how five pins ended up lined up cleanly on the finished handle.

A variation worth considering: since the blade is dark etched, darkening or bluing the five pins to match could pull the handle and blade together even more than the red liner line does now. On a knife this compact, small details carry a lot of visual weight, and matched pins would make the whole thing read as one piece rather than blade plus handle.

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