1940 Chevy

without looking in my book-its late.. is there a poke hole on the UNDER side?

if you need a key-go look at the glove lock-code is on it for trunk --Shiva--

Hi Ken,

If you just need a key made for the handle there should be a number between 8000 & 9499 stamped into the lower handle shaft and a locksmith that has the codes for 1935-66 GM can cut you a key from that number.

If you need to disassemble it for plating here is how to proceed:

Before removing the old lock assembly from the handle be sure and note where the face of the cylinder sets in relation to the face of the handle. This will help later in making sure the assembly is seated all the way down into the hole.

To remove your old assembly: (Photo at the link below)

There is a small pin toward the bottom of the trunk handle shaft that has to be driven out with a small punch to remove the old assembly. Some handles also have a circle clip installed at the top (Mainly Cadillac). It sits against the top of the cylinder and is kind of hard to see. Just below the small pin is the locking dog or "prawl" that comes out when you turn the key to lock the handle. You need to take this piece out and clean and lube it but be careful you do not lose it and make sure you note how it is oriented in the hole. There is a notch in it and it may be offset from center one way or the other. It may fall out when you start to pull the lock cylinder assembly out. The lock cylinder assembly should pull out as a unit. You can bend a small hook on a large paper clip or piece of wire and insert it into the key hole to pull the old cylinder out with. If it doesn't want to come out spray some penetrating oil into the key hole and let it set for a while. To remove the "lock case" from your old lock cylinder if you don't have a key, you will have to break away the small web between the "window" and the face of the lock so the cylinder & shaft will slide out. If you have the key just insert it and the cylinder & shaft will slide right out.

NOTE! When you remove the shaft from the old trunk lock be careful of the spring! There is a very small "C" clip where the base of the spring sits on the shaft and it is easily lost. Do this over a clean work area.... When installing the shaft back into the lock cylinder make sure the spring is pushed down over the small bump on the end of the shaft and is seated on the "C" clip, then install the shaft back into the end of the cylinder. It has to sit straight without forcing it. Put the lock case back on. Put the locking dog or "prawl" back in the way it came out and insert the assembly. Make sure the assembly is straight & seated all the way into the hole then put the key in and test it before putting the retaining pin back in. Any problems drop me an E-mail.

Leon Rowell, Locksmith "Specializing in Antique Autos & Motorcycles"

Ken Davis wrote:

These are excelent directions. The problem may be however that the shaft inside is rusted to the outside shaft. If this is the case, first try a long soak in penitrating oil, and then heat. If this is not successful, then you can drill through the prawl and use a long punch to drive out the inner shaft and cylinder.

This procedure is however a last resort. If you bugger up the inside shaft you are not likely to fix it. The prawl can be easily fabricated from some square key stock, (the material they sell for keying pulleys to shafts).

The good news is that most will come apart as Leon described.

Hello Everyone,

I wish thank you all, so very much for the information. I'll share it with my shop mates this next week. You are correct, this is a restoration job; the handle was brought in from one of our local body-shop customers. A working key was supplied with the handle.

Thanks again,

Respectfully,

Ken