40 mm hole saw in a drill press for cutting aluminum?

I have one regular and one heavy-duty "flying parts" or whatever they are called hole cutters. The heavy duty is too big to cut a 40 mm hole. The small one probably won't cut 1/4"+ thick 6061 aluminum. I'd rather try something like this...

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Can you tell what sort of shank it has? I doubt square will work. Round might work. I would prefer hex.

Any suggestions for a 40 mm aluminum hole saw, to be stuck in a drill press?

Thanks.

Reply to
John Doe
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While I love annular cutters for use in the lathe and BP the 3/4" shank may be a problem for the OPs requirements so a simple hole saw such as a Starrett bi-metal  hole saw would be more than adequate. Such as

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.

Reply to
David Billington

Thanks. I thought carbide-tipped would be necessary, but then figured bi-metal would work. I looked at Starrett and Morse. I ordered two like your suggestion. One Lenox with integrated arbor, and the other a Dewalt 7/16 inch shank arbor plus a Morse saw. Local stores don't carry 1-9/16" diameter saws but no matter, already delivered.

Reply to
John Doe

Hand-held hole saws up to 4" worked well enough for me when I was installing conduit into steel control boxes. Use a slow drill, like

500 RPM.
Reply to
Jim Wilkins

  My wrists won't take it any more ...
Reply to
Terry Coombs

IIRC the magnetic-base drill wouldn't hold reliably on vertical painted sheet metal and the hydraulic Greenlee hole punch was even more heavy and awkward than the D-handled Milwaukee drill and hole saw.

That was one of the difficult manual metalworking tasks that prompted me to buy a milling machine.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

Milling machine to make holes in wall-mounted electrical boxes? I'd love to see that setup.

Reply to
rangerssuck

I progressed to building more sophisticated equipment for less hostile workplaces; no more wash-downs or oil spray.

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Since these electronic enclosures didn't need to be liquid tight I could make control panels flat and small enough to mill.

I still cut large round holes for fans, and for analog panel meters when I need their fast response more than accuracy, like on the input to an MPPT solar controller.

Reply to
Jim Wilkins

"Liquid tight stainless control boxes for washdowns" used to be my middle name when I had a ton of work at pharmaceutical plants. Then, "oil tight" became a big issue on machines that drilled & tapped big holes in cast iron - the boxes I was replacing would fill with oil and iron "filings" that were abrasive enough that they'd wear the insulation off the 50-year-old wiring.

Still, I never had a problem with the hydraulic punches, even for 4-inch conduit (though I'd get someone to help with those).

That MPPT stuff is pretty cool, and area in which I've yet to tread.

Reply to
rangerssuck

Of course I practiced using a hole saw by drilling through wood. The plug (the cut out part) gets stuck in the hole saw. I might cut through

1/8" thick aluminum for practice, too.

Will 3/8" thick aluminum get stuck in the hole saw?

Also, for cutting fluid, I have these choices... WD-40, silicon spray, Teflon spray, and the combination of silicon and Teflon, and 3-1 sewing machine oil. Or I could go pick up some cutting fluid from Home Depot if it helps for my 2 cut task.

Reply to
John Doe

If the hole saw cuts, it will cut a quarter inch just fine. But, a hole saw in a drill press (vertical downward press) doesn't clear chips from the cut, you have to back out and apply suction, or a brush, or otherwise get the junk out of the kerf. Hole saws work better with horizontal boring, or an active flood of coolant, or lots of back-off-and-clear-waste.

Reply to
whit3rd

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