Advice needed on magnetic contactor

Oct 01, 2004 18 Replies

I've read most all the past posts in this group about RPCs. I recently acquired a used Powermatic 66 table saw with a 3 HP 3 PH motor. I decided to build an RPC based on available online information instead of replace the motor with a single phase.



The RPC with a 5 PH motor seems to work perfectly. The idler motor starts right up instantly every time. I'm using Jim Hanrahan's circuit and calculations (non self-starting) from

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The table saw has a Cutler-Hammer A10B-1 (size 0) magnetic contactor with its own overload coils. It uses an auxiliary relay as a holding circuit. The problem is that with the RPC running I push the start button on the table saw and often I get an obnoxious chatter and the motor won't start. When this happens the RPC doesn't appear to care. Sometimes the motor starts up fine and once running the table saw runs fine.



The only thing I can figure is that the coil on the table saw's starter (240V 60Hz) is dropping out (or isn't pulling in hard) when the starter first engages and it is oscillating. I just don't know why or what to do to fix it. Any suggestions, insight and comments would be appreciated.



I've got a total of 150uF of capacitance in the RPC (60uF on T1-T3 and



90uF on T2-T3). No load (just the idler) I see something like
240V-258V-270V across the three phases. With the table saw running (just running, but not cutting) I get approximately 240V-240V-258V. I'm just mentioning this part as a reference. Also, the RPC uses a Cutler Hammer W200 Advantage (size 1) starter in case it matters.

Thanks, Paul



No help here but I get a chattering start relay on my big mill sometimes. Usually at most 3 or 4 cycles and then it locks in and all works OK. I'm interested also to hear solutions. lg no neat sig line.

[ ... ]

I have a suggestion. Probably the circuit which is powering the relay coil includes the manufactured phase, which probably drops quite a bit during starting.

Instead rotate your wires until the two which feed the contactor's (relay's) coil are the two which come right past the RPC from the power line. Those should not droop under load as much as the manufactured phase.

You could either trace things out, or just try moving L1 to L2, L2 to L3, and L3 to L1 and re-test. If that doesn't do it, one more cycle of moving them all up one should land you on the right set of wires.

This will not change the direction of the motor, but interchanging any two wires will. If your blade is running the wrong way, I would suggest interchanging the two wires which come from the power line, not moving the manufactured phase to reverse the motor.

Good Luck, DoN.

The contactor from the mag starter should be across L1 and L3

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

I believe DoN has given you the correct answer.... the coil needs the

240 volts to pull in, so even if you trace the two lines that go through (past) the converter over to the saw's contactor and make sure the coils wires are connected to *those*, you should get a full, reliable 240v for the coil - problem should be solved. It doesn't take much of a drop to make the coil loose grip, so give it the full voltage it needs. Ken.

I moved the coil wire from L2 to L3 on the contactor and that solved the problem perfectly. But why?

Thanks very much. Paul

Gunner wrote:

Because the made up leg was not giving you the correct voltage in relation to L1. I cannot give you the proper scientific reasons..I just know it would work. Been there, done that.

Gunner

"In my humble opinion, the petty carping levied against Bush by the Democrats proves again, it is better to have your eye plucked out by an eagle than to be nibbled to death by ducks." - Norman Liebmann

Gunner sez: I cannot give you the proper scientific reasons..

Not to worry Gunner, someone will surely chime in with an explanation re. "modulus of elasticity", "regulation constant", "deficient discombobulator", "capacitive reactance-causitive factor", "pooping power factor" and/or etc. Your advice was absolutely on target. Generally, instructions on connecting RPCs include notice to connect all control functions across the input line. And that's because the source is stiffer (modulus of elasticity ?? ) than the manufactured phase. ( ) For the case in point, I am guessing there was not enough run capacitance to sustain the manufactured phase voltage during the start-up interval. Sort of like it chased its own tail.

Bad muffler bearings. That, or it was low on blinker fluid. Us scientific types know all about that stuff.

:^)

Jim

Thats why I always carry bailing wire and a few yards of flight line in the spares box in my truck.

Gunner

Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry

Do you throw it in the sump when the water gets too deep? Or does it telegraph money when you're in front of a judge? Is it bigger or smaller than that other stuff used to bundle hay? Might be just the thing to fix the Henway...

--Glenn Lyford

Which begs the question..."whats a Henway?"

Gunner

Confronting Liberals with the facts of reality is very much akin to clubbing baby seals. It gets boring after a while, but because Liberals are so stupid it is easy work." Steven M. Barry

What color and weight of Flight line do you carry? :-) Do you also keep a left handed monkey whench in there?

The new guys in the power plant were always sent to get a bucket of steam. ...lew...

I missed the staff meeting but the minutes show Gunner wrote back on Sat, 02 Oct 2004 05:18:04 GMT in rec.crafts.metalworking :

Metric or Standard Henway?

(Not going to ask about the older British Standard Henway. Most people have never heard of those either.)

tschus pyotr

Oh, about three pounds.

This news just in: Henny Youngman is still dead.

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[ ... ]

I remember once sending a parts guy on the graveyard shift (under some kind of fancy title, such as "Planner" for a carbon resistor, Part designation:

"RC20GF007J" (1/2 Watt 5% resistor)

After a while, he came back saying that he couldn't find one anywhere, so I showed him a:

"RC42GF007J" (2 Watt 5% resistor)

He checked the color codes ("Black Black Violet", to match the "007", and went off to try again. (yes -- the three digits were the colors of the first three bands, and the forth band gave the pecision (brown or none for 20%, silver for 10% and gold for 5%. (The order of bands got weird for values below 10 ohms.)

Anyone want to put in the explanation, or do I need to do that?

Oh yes -- I had *hand-painted* those color codes, using model airplane dope. A RC42GF (2 W) was bigger, and thus easier to do it than a RC20GF (1/2 W). :-)

I'm not even sure whether the RC??GF series of resistors is made any more, with the metal film ones being more precise and stable, and being very inexpensive these days.

Enjoy, DoN.

No need for me. I used and wrote parrts lists for those for nearly 20 yrs. I think the bigest RC type I ever came across was 22 Meg R R Bu. The later work was mostly RC07 s Those were getting so small it was hard to hold them. :-)

...lew...

Don Thanks that advise also fixed the chattering contactor in my mill. lg no neat sig line

Great! Glad to have helped.

Enjoy, DoN.

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