I have a Kohler 14 kW naturaal gas generator, can I somehow test it
with propane, thanks. Also what sort of regulator would you suggest to
adapt a forklift tank.
i
Not sure about the Kohler demand regulator but on my Generac it's a
simple jet change to go from one to the other.
The instruction manaul should tell you for sure, if you don't have one
it's probably available on the net.
H.
The hole in the gas orifice is much larger for natural gas. You will
need a different orifice, but they should be available and cheap. The
first place to find out should be Kohler.
You can, for just a test, just feed propane into the carb's throat from
a hose from the propane tank's regulator but you will need an adjustable
valve on the propane hose to get the volume of propane correct so it
runs smoothly.
MikeB
That's what, about a 20 horse engine? I'd probably stuff the hose
from my turkey cooker into the intake, turn on the gas and see if it
fires off. I've used a nozzleless propane torch to do the honors when
starting a balky car engine, too, easier on the innards than ether.
Just don't expect long run times with either, you'll probably get a
few revs under power before the mixture in the manifold gets too lean.
Now if you want to convert it, that's another story. Don't really
know much about smaller engines and propane power, but the larger ones
need a vaporizer that's usually tapped into the oil system to vaporize
the LP as it comes from the tank. A natural gas system won't need
that or have that. Larger engines will pull more gas than ambient
heat can vaporize, the tank would freeze up. A vaporizer setup with
the LP carb might be available as an option on that particular engine
or generator model, though. Probably would cost a bit for the
conversion and be a bit fiddly to get going. If you want/need LP
power, sell the current one and get one. Plenty of demand for NG
backup power. No cold weather starting problems and the tank never
runs dry.
As far as I know, a forklift tank uses the same POL fitting that
barbeque bottles do, the difference is that the forklift tank has a
siphon tube to pass liquid, not gas, see above about the vaporizer.
So no regulator in that application, the vaporizer does the honors in
combination with the LP carb/mixer. I don't know if you could get
just gas out of the thing standing it on it's head and using a
barbeque regulator, it'd be inconvenient, though. If you're using it
on an engine, you'll want liquid and won't need a regulator.
Stan
To answer your subject line question: The answer is yes. If you can locate
the proper carburetor metering orifice for propane.
The selection of regulator depends on the fuel flow rate. Someone can do a
conversion from kiloWatts to BTU/H and you can find one that meets your
requirements. Also, check the output pressure. Mostly specified in inches
of water, many regulators are fixed.
I don't know about forklifts, but as you get to larger engines (I had a
propane powered pickup truck) they switch from gas (vapor) tank pickup to
liquid. That changes the type of regulator needed completely.
For higher flow rates, liquid propane is taken from the bottom of the tank
(rather than the top vapor) and run through the regulator where it changes
to a gas. Since this phase change occurs in the regulator (which is
physically small compared to a tank), some heat input must be provided or
it will freeze. In vehicular use, the engine coolant is usually circulated
through a jacket in the regulator.
I dunno what would be practical about using a forklift LP tank.. as Paul and
Stan suggest, you can use LP vapor (not liquid) for testing purposes.
AKA, the widely used Propane Enrichment Test for 4-cycle engines (even
gasoline engines).. for small engines, a simple common propane torch is
sufficient for testing.
For larger engines, a larger supply/feed of LP vapor may be required,
again.. for testing, not normal operation.
A propane vapor/gas stream, directed into the open air intake (air cleaner
or other enclosure removed) will often provide enough fuel to meet a crude
mix of air/fuel ratio to run an engine for testing purposes.
The LP gas supply should have an OH SHIT self-shutoff device to prevent a
small problem from turning into a 911 call training event.
First things first - not last.. have a known good, operational fire
extinguisher within reach.
All safety precautions need to be followed as required when dealing with any
fuel gas.. no stray potential ignition sources from old cracked spark
plug/coil wires arcing to ground, loose electrical connections, or
carelessness resulting in a cloud of vapor taking place around an operating
engine (often of questionable operating condition, timing issues, backfiring
etc).. and with regard to the engine vibrations when it is running (no
jumper leads with alligator clips used for temporary electrical connections
which may shake off).
If you are keeping the generator, get the proper orifice for the
metering body ("carburetor") and you'll probably need a Gasifier also
- like a Forklift, you can't draw off vapor fast enough from a small
bottle, the bottle will frost over. From a 500-gallon tank this
isn't that big a deal.
HINT: The Gasifier needs a hot liquid to vaporize enough Propane to
run an engine, preferably hot engine coolant - but there's no rule
saying it can't be the Motor Oil from an air-cooled engine... (I have
seen Propane Corvairs.) Goes a lot easier if the engine has a
pressure lubricating system, tap into the line for the Oil Filter with
a Remote Mount kit. Bonus, it acts as an oil cooler.
If you plan to sell the generator once you prove it runs properly, you
might just want to take it somewhere that has natural gas available
and test it there.
You can improvise the hoses for the hookup, since the gas pressure is
under 1 PSI anything that will hold pressure and not leak will do -
Garden Hose being the obvious one.
On a regular house or small business, you can tap off at the "Gas
Company Use Only" testing valve or tee and plug AFTER the regulator
and meter for a temporary source - just have to put it back when you
are done.
If you have a 3/4" (or larger) tee and plug, that's where they put a
temporary gas feed when they go to change the meter when nobodys home.
They have a special bag and nozzle gidge where they loosen up the plug
to finger-tight and put a bag over the tee. Then they remove the plug
inside the bag (now at 6" WC gas pressure) and stick the nozzle into
the tee and the pipe to the house - now their portable bottle is
running the house, and they can change out your gas meter.
You can rig the same thing with a big plastic bag wrapped around the
end of the tee and taped closed - loosen the plug to finger tight, put
pipe dope on the valve, put the valve in the bag and the bag over the
tee, pull the plug and put in the ball valve to finger-tight.
Bada-Bing!
If you were running an industrial plant like a big Bakery or a Glass
Foundry where you can't just shut down mid-batch if the Natural Gas
ever fails... Or you wanted the same generator to switch between NG
and Propane easily... There IS a way to substitute Propane for
Natural Gas without changing anything in the plant. They have a
metering device that mixes Propane and low pressure Compressed Air
(from a ring blower) to get the same BTU content, then they pipe it on
into the plant to keep it running.
The same thing could be done on a small scale, but it would be far too
expensive to mess with building or buying one unless you plan to do it
every day. I'm just mentioning it so you know it exists.
-->--
I remember hearing that forklift tanks have a flexible dip tube, so they
feed liquid propane regardless of the tank position. Definitely need a
gassifier.
Christopher A. Young
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"BruceNOSPAM L. BergmanINVALID (munged human readable)"
If you are keeping the generator, get the proper orifice for the
metering body ("carburetor") and you'll probably need a Gasifier also
- like a Forklift, you can't draw off vapor fast enough from a small
bottle, the bottle will frost over. From a 500-gallon tank this
isn't that big a deal.
HINT: The Gasifier needs a hot liquid to vaporize enough Propane to
run an engine, preferably hot engine coolant - but there's no rule
saying it can't be the Motor Oil from an air-cooled engine... (I have
seen Propane Corvairs.) Goes a lot easier if the engine has a
pressure lubricating system, tap into the line for the Oil Filter with
a Remote Mount kit. Bonus, it acts as an oil cooler.
If you plan to sell the generator once you prove it runs properly, you
might just want to take it somewhere that has natural gas available
and test it there.
You can improvise the hoses for the hookup, since the gas pressure is
under 1 PSI anything that will hold pressure and not leak will do -
Garden Hose being the obvious one.
On a regular house or small business, you can tap off at the "Gas
Company Use Only" testing valve or tee and plug AFTER the regulator
and meter for a temporary source - just have to put it back when you
are done.
If you have a 3/4" (or larger) tee and plug, that's where they put a
temporary gas feed when they go to change the meter when nobodys home.
They have a special bag and nozzle gidge where they loosen up the plug
to finger-tight and put a bag over the tee. Then they remove the plug
inside the bag (now at 6" WC gas pressure) and stick the nozzle into
the tee and the pipe to the house - now their portable bottle is
running the house, and they can change out your gas meter.
You can rig the same thing with a big plastic bag wrapped around the
end of the tee and taped closed - loosen the plug to finger tight, put
pipe dope on the valve, put the valve in the bag and the bag over the
tee, pull the plug and put in the ball valve to finger-tight.
Bada-Bing!
If you were running an industrial plant like a big Bakery or a Glass
Foundry where you can't just shut down mid-batch if the Natural Gas
ever fails... Or you wanted the same generator to switch between NG
and Propane easily... There IS a way to substitute Propane for
Natural Gas without changing anything in the plant. They have a
metering device that mixes Propane and low pressure Compressed Air
(from a ring blower) to get the same BTU content, then they pipe it on
into the plant to keep it running.
The same thing could be done on a small scale, but it would be far too
expensive to mess with building or buying one unless you plan to do it
every day. I'm just mentioning it so you know it exists.
-->--
Oh yeah, I almost forgot: Propane regulators designed for engine use have an
interesting safety feature not found on barbecue or similar regulators.
They are designed to supply gas at a slightly negative pressure relative to
atmospheric. Instead of providing a positive fraction of an inch of water
pressure, they require a negative pressure. That way, a running engine has
to provide a slight vacuum to draw gas from the system. If the engine
stalls, the gas flow stops.
The hardware is more or less the same. The orifice is smaller
with propane and larger with Natural Gas. More energy in propane.
I've had it done to ranges, hot water heaters, ovens and furnaces.
When you live in a propane home you get to know the unique needs.
Now, out of that house into an all electric. Wish we had Natural gas.
Martin
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