carbon arc control

Hi. I tried experimenting with a carbon arc the other day, and it did not work out as I hoped. I used a rewound microwave oven transformer with #10 wire in the secondary which gave 3.1 V out with an 11.8 V test input. A resistance soldering unit probe was used to test the function of the carbon arc. There were no active methods for current limiting, except for the use of #14 zip cord to the resistance soldering head, as well as the soldering probe resistance itself of

0.14 ohms. The system was plugged into a computer surge protector strip with a 10 A circuit breaker, and fused with the original microwave oven fuse in an attempt to keep it from blowing a breaker in the (far away) breaker box.

Previous google searches of newsgroups have stated that these types of carbon arc torches are only useful for welding tin cans. This is probably due to their limited output of 1 kW, which would be about 30 A at the observed voltage. So, a test was carried out on 0.05" mild steel sheet to begin with.

When the grounded steel sheet was touched with the carbon rod, a horrible brush like purple flame appeared. This flame was not like an acetylene flame: it was very hot. It melted a radial front of metal away from it faster than I could react to move the carbon rod, then the arc went out. This is not even useful for cutting, since the melting front moves faster than I can respond with the carbon rod. The lip was verified to be melted steel with a file. This thing sure has a lot more action than that weak resistance soldering unit! It would just poke holes in tin cans, contrary to that post that said that these devices were quite limited.

It seems that the problem of lack of control comes from insufficient current limiting, or insufficient skill. There is probably a positive feedback problem that as the metal melts away lengthening the arc, there is more energy in the arc, causing the process to go faster, until the arc becomes too long and gets extinguished. Would it help to add current control (tapped inductor or phase control circuit) to make the arc easier to maintain in a steady fashion?

Thanks, Eric

Reply to
Eric Chang
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Here's a couple of issues to consider. First of all, a carbon arc wants about 30-40 volts across it for stable operation. Your voltage is way too low. Secondly, a carbon arc is usually produced between 2 carbons, not one and the work. The flame between the 2 carbons is used somewhat like a torch rather than a stick welder. The arc is better as an intense light source than as a welder/ cutter. There's a reason why carbon arcs aren't widely used to cut and weld and that's because there are much better ways to do it.

Be sure to protect your eyes and skin from the UV radiation. It can do lots of painful damage in a hurry.

Reply to
Jim Stewart

Gouging rod

Gunner

No 220-pound thug can threaten the well-being or dignity of a 110-pound woman who has two pounds of iron to even things out. Is that evil? Is that wrong? People who object to weapons aren't abolishing violence, they're begging for the rule of brute force, when the biggest, strongest animals among men were always automatically "right". Guns end that, and social democracy is a hollow farce without an armed populace to make it work. - L. Neil Smith

Reply to
Gunner

Gunner wrote: [near total snip]

Here's a couple of issues to consider. First of all, a carbon arc wants about 30-40 volts across it for stable operation. Your voltage is way too low. Secondly, a carbon arc is usually produced between 2 carbons, not one and the work. The flame between the 2 carbons is used somewhat like a torch rather than a stick welder. The arc is better as an intense light source than as a welder/ cutter. There's a reason why carbon arcs aren't widely used to cut and weld and that's because there are much better ways to do it.

Be sure to protect your eyes and skin from the UV radiation. It can do lots of painful damage in a hurry.

Gunner

A carbon arc is usually used as a flame between two carbons, as Gunner says, to HEAT the job so that you can BRAZE it, not weld it!

The size and sound of the flame varies according to the gap you have between them, and how evenly matched they are to each other. If one is much shorter than the other, you'll get a very weird lop-sided flame, and it will tend for the arc to blow out easily. The sound can vary from a soft hissing to a loud buzzing, according to the gap and current setting. For thin sheet, you really need a low current setting, or the flame will blow right through the sheet, rather than just heating it! High currents will also burn the carbons very fast, but do less real work.

Carbon arc for brazing is much less equipment costly than oxy-acetylene, but is heavy on carbons, and you can't really heat very large areas. I find it useful for small jobs in thin sheet and tubing, but I have to watch out for the arc blowing the metal away! For bigger I use stick welding, and for smaller I use propane and silver solder. This is ALL amateur stuff, not pro! (I don't have oxy, mig or tig!)

Dave (uk)

p.s. arcs will burn your retina very rapidly if you look at them, so use a shield at all times.

Reply to
spitfire2

twernt me. I simply mentioned Gouging Rod

Gunner

"Guns aren't toys. They're for family protection, hunting dangerous or delicious animals, and keeping the King of England out of your face."

-- Krusty the Clown, "The Simpsons"

Reply to
Gunner

Not like an acetylene flame ... because it was very hot? Hmm.

At a 3.1:11.8 (about 1:4) ratio, the transformer would produce about 30 volts out from 120 volts in, so Eric possibly could strike and maintain an arc between carbons (until a breaker goes or the transformer burns up). Even so, a carbon arc probably isn't useful for welding thin steel sheets together, but would work ok for brazing.

-jiw

Reply to
James Waldby

...

Hi James. Thanks for the clarification. I did not measure the output of the transformer at 120 V in, since I don't like to measure things when they are running (being fed with a 12 V test transformer doesn't count). The output should be pretty near 30 volts, perhaps a bit less due to drops caused by the higher currents flowing through the leakage inductance.

The arc was sufficiently fierce that there would probably be no problem maintaining an arc between two carbons. The problem was in maintaining an arc between the resistance soldering carbon and the workpiece. It melted the metal away too fast. It was a good experiment, though, since I wanted to know that the hand wound transformer (it was a pain to wind, believe the people who post these warnings) actually worked, and it is getting difficult to find arc carbons. Didn't want to have a bad transformer and a couple of useless carbons that were hard to find. The local store has stopped selling them. And, it is now hard to find carbon zinc batteries. Most are alkaline, which don't have the central rod. I did find one on the bus one day. That's the one which the resistance soldering carbon was salvaged from.

Thanks for the tip about welding. I was not sure that carbon arcs were suitable for welding, but I wanted to make sure that they could melt brass rod.

Thanks, Eric

Reply to
Eric Chang

Hi Gunner. Thanks for the tip. I heard from various newsgroup posts that gouging rod is difficult to keep a stable arc with, but with carbon rods getting hard to find these days, they are worth a try.

Thanks, Eric

Reply to
Eric Chang

to HEAT the job so that you can BRAZE it, not weld it!

Hi Dave. Thanks for the reply. I will try out the two carbon type torch as soon as I can get some more carbons. I wanted to make sure things worked a bit before hunting/scavenging for carbon arc rods. They are getting hard to find.

between them, and how evenly matched they are to each other. If one is much shorter than the other, you'll get a very weird lop-sided flame, and it will tend for the arc to blow out easily. The sound can vary from a soft hissing to a loud buzzing, according to the gap and current setting. For thin sheet, you really need a low current setting, or the flame will blow right through the sheet, rather than just heating it! High currents will also burn the carbons very fast, but do less real work.

This is exactly what I was looking for. I guess I need a current control knob on my setup to make things work better. I didn't know that current control was so critical.

oxy-acetylene, but is heavy on carbons, and you can't really heat very large areas. I find it useful for small jobs in thin sheet and tubing, but I have to watch out for the arc blowing the metal away! For bigger I use stick welding, and for smaller I use propane and silver solder. This is ALL amateur stuff, not pro! (I don't have oxy, mig or tig!)

shield at all times.

Thanks again, Eric

Reply to
Eric Chang

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