Chucking Reamers Without a Floating Holder?

I have some chucking reamers, but I do not have a floating reamer holder.
What is the best method for using the reamer without distorting the hole
(e.g., bell-mouthing, out-of-round, etc.)?
On a mill, should I pre-drill (undersized) the clamped workpiece, remove the
drill, chuck the reamer, and just ream? Or would it be better to loosen the
vise/clamping on the workpiece in order to let the workpiece move enough to
allow for any reamer chucking alignment errors?
And what to do on a lathe?
Thanks in advance!
Michael
Reply to
DeepDiver
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I like to hold the end of the reamer so if it runs out there is not much strain for the hole to guide it straight. That means dont chuck it up close to the flutes.
Drill .005 to .020 under size, on holes that are .500 to .050 finished. I like .007 to .010, but what ever drill is close will most likely work.
Les
Reply to
PIW
If you carefully bore and then put your reamer in a good chuck or collet, it should work fine whether on a lathe or a chuck. In other words, the hole should be very closely aligned with the axis already as long as the workholding isn't touched. That's what I do but then I'm no pro machinist. Cut speed by 2/3 and use a fair amount of cutting fluid and don't ever turn the reamer backwards in the hole. Should work fine for you. - GWE
DeepDiver wrote:
Reply to
Grant Erwin
I only know about gun barrels. Put the muzzle end in the lathe chuck and support the chamber end on the tailstock center set up the steady rest as near the chamber end as possible. Move the tail stock back, clamp a lathe dog on the shank of the reamer, insert the reamer pilot in the barrel an move the center into the center hole on the reamer. hold the lathe dog in your hand and feed in the reamer with the tail stock. If the reamer catches it will pull the dog out of your hand and no damage will be done. Just, stop the lathe, back of the tail stock (very slightly). turn dog forward by hand, feed tailstock back in, turn on lath and continue reaming. Bill
Reply to
William T Bartlett
All good advice.....
Where possible, I like to single point bore to a very slightly larger than the reamer O/D...to a very shallow depth, like .030/.040 deep into the part.
The reamer will then start on the pre-bored hole location....the pre-bore hole will make for very easy starting of press fit pins as an added advantage----else if the hole is later chamfered, the pre-bored area gets cut away eventually antway.
Reply to
"PrecisionMachinist"
Good idea, Ste....I mean Sam. Have you ever ground the shank diameter down just above the fluting to make the reamer flex and follow the hole more easily? It has saved my ass a few times.
michael
-- release the fish from the net to reply
Reply to
michael
You can put a chuck in the tailstock, clamped loosely around the reamer shank, and drive the reamer with a tapping handler or dog. Use a washer on the shank between the handle and the chuck. Another way is to put a center in the tailstock, and drive it the same way.
D> I have some chucking reamers, but I do not have a floating reamer holder. D> What is the best method for using the reamer without distorting the hole D> (e.g., bell-mouthing, out-of-round, etc.)?
D> On a mill, should I pre-drill (undersized) the clamped workpiece, remove the D> drill, chuck the reamer, and just ream? Or would it be better to loosen the D> vise/clamping on the workpiece in order to let the workpiece move enough to D> allow for any reamer chucking alignment errors?
D> And what to do on a lathe?
D> Thanks in advance! D> Michael
Reply to
Ole-Hjalmar Kristensen
Hi, Michael.
Naww........
In the above case I usually get a better holder.........conversely, a bigger hammer
I been collecting holders for some time now, I got probably 140 various cat 40 and another 50 in the bt 40 here...... Not too bad for a production shop with 4 machining centers....
Most of my reaming here would be for repeat production work, in this case the reamers are usually kept setup in a holder for storage....
Reply to
PrecisionMachinisT
Hmmm.....140 divided by.........Hey, are you paying luxury tax on those? Get some of those from the Lazy Surplus? ;>)
mike
Reply to
michael
Last year about this time I bought a fairly large lot at auction ( Dovebid ).........Freightliner in Portland, Oregon...the machinery was all bought by dealers, who typically arent much interested in the holders and such.
I turned around an sold about half of what I had won on ebay to pay for the ones I kept.......
=========
Awww.....the ole lazy b surplus trick......
I like to get up there as often as I can, but thats usually only 3 or 4 times per year, some real good deals there too....Often I purposefully pick up enough stuff to resell on ebay to pay for my other purchases, dropping 500/ 1000 bucks--problem is ya never know whats gonna be there......
You look at things an scratch yer head, wondering what you could use *that* for???........Invariably, once you are 100 miles away you figure out why you shoulda bought it......
Last time I had gone up on a friday and picked up a few things----passed up a few things I coulda used, then Momma needed me to drive up to olympia on saturday for some other reason
....So....
I went back up there and got the other items I had wanted........New 3inch by 2in loc roughing shellmills for 5 bucks each------I got six of em......
..NOW.....when it comes time to hog off an inch deep offa the top of an aluminum block, I do it in one pass instead of ten.......
Also, they had scads of extension collet chucks, 5 bucks each for erickson SS10DA100 and SS750DA200----I got a dozen of each...........
But hey now!!!.........DONT get me wrong about my apparent gloating.... I really shouldnt be hanging out too much in this group, beings as I actually gotta try and make a living with MY tools........
Reply to
"PrecisionMachinisT"

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