I have some chucking reamers, but I do not have a floating reamer holder. What is the best method for using the reamer without distorting the hole (e.g., bell-mouthing, out-of-round, etc.)?
On a mill, should I pre-drill (undersized) the clamped workpiece, remove the drill, chuck the reamer, and just ream? Or would it be better to loosen the vise/clamping on the workpiece in order to let the workpiece move enough to allow for any reamer chucking alignment errors?
I like to hold the end of the reamer so if it runs out there is not much strain for the hole to guide it straight. That means dont chuck it up close to the flutes.
Drill .005 to .020 under size, on holes that are .500 to .050 finished. I like .007 to .010, but what ever drill is close will most likely work.
Where possible, I like to single point bore to a very slightly larger than the reamer O/D...to a very shallow depth, like .030/.040 deep into the part.
The reamer will then start on the pre-bored hole location....the pre-bore hole will make for very easy starting of press fit pins as an added advantage----else if the hole is later chamfered, the pre-bored area gets cut away eventually antway.
Good idea, Ste....I mean Sam. Have you ever ground the shank diameter down just above the fluting to make the reamer flex and follow the hole more easily? It has saved my ass a few times.
You can put a chuck in the tailstock, clamped loosely around the reamer shank, and drive the reamer with a tapping handler or dog. Use a washer on the shank between the handle and the chuck. Another way is to put a center in the tailstock, and drive it the same way.
D> I have some chucking reamers, but I do not have a floating reamer holder. D> What is the best method for using the reamer without distorting the hole D> (e.g., bell-mouthing, out-of-round, etc.)?
D> On a mill, should I pre-drill (undersized) the clamped workpiece, remove the D> drill, chuck the reamer, and just ream? Or would it be better to loosen the D> vise/clamping on the workpiece in order to let the workpiece move enough to D> allow for any reamer chucking alignment errors?
Last year about this time I bought a fairly large lot at auction ( Dovebid ).........Freightliner in Portland, Oregon...the machinery was all bought by dealers, who typically arent much interested in the holders and such.
I turned around an sold about half of what I had won on ebay to pay for the ones I kept.......
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Awww.....the ole lazy b surplus trick......
I like to get up there as often as I can, but thats usually only 3 or 4 times per year, some real good deals there too....Often I purposefully pick up enough stuff to resell on ebay to pay for my other purchases, dropping
500/ 1000 bucks--problem is ya never know whats gonna be there......
You look at things an scratch yer head, wondering what you could use *that* for???........Invariably, once you are 100 miles away you figure out why you shoulda bought it......
Last time I had gone up on a friday and picked up a few things----passed up a few things I coulda used, then Momma needed me to drive up to olympia on saturday for some other reason
....So....
I went back up there and got the other items I had wanted........New 3inch by 2in loc roughing shellmills for 5 bucks each------I got six of em......
..NOW.....when it comes time to hog off an inch deep offa the top of an aluminum block, I do it in one pass instead of ten.......
Also, they had scads of extension collet chucks, 5 bucks each for erickson SS10DA100 and SS750DA200----I got a dozen of each...........
But hey now!!!.........DONT get me wrong about my apparent gloating.... I really shouldnt be hanging out too much in this group, beings as I actually gotta try and make a living with MY tools........
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