Cincinnati monoset

I have started putting the monoset together from the pile of
attachments and trying (dry) its operation.
To say that I am impressed with this machine, would be to say
nothing. It can even do helical movement. It also comes with a super
high speed attachment, I guess for ID grinding or some such.
I find it very difficult to part with this machine and may keep it
around for a while.
I am wondering, at this point, if I can use this monoset to sharpen
drills. Also, with the monoset, I really do not need any other T&C
grinder. I really need to read the manuals.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus23709
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I agree. The monoset is the most versatile T&C grinder there is. I'm not parting with mine.
I built a drill grinding attachment for very large drills using the monoset. It sharpens them perfectly and really reduces the HP needed to cut. Plus, the holes don't drill oversize. It uses the exact same concept as the very cheap general drill grinding attachment. Truthfully, for general drill grinding, this method is just too slow. I use an M2 darex just like yours for small bits. And normally grind large drills by hand.
The monoset can provide eccentric primary relief on the side flutes of endmills. Something you only get with high end endmills like Hanita. The Hanita website has several pages explaining the advantage of this. I have a table and can explain the setup to you AFTER you've ground a few endmills conventionly to get the hang of it.
There is almost no tool that cannot be resharpened or fabricated from scratch with a monoset.
Karl
Reply to
karltownsend.NOT
You can sharpen drills, taps, reamers, countersinks, counterbores, toolbits, chasers and form cutters. Hold on to it for a while and see how much you use it. Consider offering sharpening as a sideline in case your auction business gets slow.
Best Regards Tom.
Reply to
azotic
Hi Tom, thanks. Re: providing services: What follows is my opinion, which, as you know, is often wrong. I visit many places and see many people and businesses and what I see is that people who offer such services are generally doing badly. Economics of "providing commodity service" is a very tough business. The only thing worse is being in "commodity manufacturing", with the added burden of expensive capital equipment and more environmental regulation.
When I bought a building and started working for myself full time this year, I swore that I will not a) be making any goods and b) be providing any services. I decided to do only websites and horse trading and nothing else.
HOWEVER, I buy and sell a lot of tooling, such as drills, end mills, and taps. I have opportunities to buy lots more.
This is where a need for a T&C grinder comes. If I can come up with a cheap to operate process of tool grinding, I could make a lot of money buying, sharpening and selling metalworking cutting tools. Not just "here's a tray of used drills AS IS" but "here's a set of professionally resharpened drills". That could, possibly, make me money and would be a fun thing to do when "auctions are slow".
i
Reply to
Ignoramus23709
Thanks, glad to hear.
Do you have a picture of it?
This is very nice to know. I will pick a few hopelessly busted end mills and will try sharpening them.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus23709
That can be very proffitable. I would visit local scrap yards and inform them that you buy used drills etc. If you can find a retired grinder hand and hire him part time he can teach you all the tricks. There are a couple of guys on ebay that are selling resharpend tooling, it should be easy to check if that stuff is selling enough to make it worthwhile.
Best Regards Tom.
Reply to
azotic
"Ignoramus23709" wrote
When I salvage a chipped end mill, rather than wear down the surface grinder wheel I grind the end flat on a pedestal grinder and rough out the 30 degree back relief.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
Jim, I thought to use them for practice, they would stay chipped, but I can sharpen some edges.
i
Reply to
Ignoramus22134
End mills are easy, though a good start. The amount of dish toward the center doesn't appear to be critical. If you want a 'learning experience' try sharpening taps with a circular relief and then test them on steel by hand.
jsw
Reply to
Jim Wilkins
In my experience, the monoset is not a good choice for low cost resharpening. A cinnci #2 with an air bearing spindle can resharp an endmill in 1/2 the time, for example.
I do think the monoset is a great choice for an HSM type because of its extreme versatility. If you have the tooling, there is not a custom cutter that is over its abilty to fabricate.
Karl
Reply to
karltownsend.NOT
ask me again in Feb. Its not with me right now.
Karl
Reply to
karltownsend.NOT
Yes you can sharpen drills with it.
Suggest find a copy of this book, purchase and read it cover-to-cover:
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Reply to
PrecisionmachinisT
This book actually came with this Monoset!
i
Reply to
Ignoramus22134
Karl. When grinding the ends of center cutting end mills, do you grind one flute slightly beyond center and the other flute a little less than to the center in order to make it center cutting. I recall a discussion by T Nut regarding this awhile back. If so, how much beyond the center do you go?
RWL
Reply to
GeoLane at PTD dot NET
I don't see how that would work. Wish Tnut was here to 'splain it. Looks to me like the part going over center would be turning the wrong way
Endmills are terrible drills. Use a drill or walk them down - side to side while plunging.
Karl
Reply to
karltownsend.NOT
The endmill fixture I have and all those I've seen rotate the endmill on its axis to grind all the flutes identically. As long as the grinding wheel has sharp dressed edges you can crank the table feed in and examine the cut until opposing flute edges practically meet, definitely closer than drill bit edges. If you accidentally go past center the last flute sharpened will be like that.
Sometimes the flute geometry is offset so that the edges aren't quite radial and won't meet. The gap either rubs or leaves a small protruding stub in the middle that gets knocked down periodically. An asymmetrical hand-ground Dremel slit across the center seems to help by pushing the stub around until it breaks off.
jsw, who likes to experiment.
Reply to
Jim Wilkins

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