Clausing 13x40 clone will not run backwards

Sorry, the link for the motor wiring is:

Thanks to the input here. With all the new information, I've studied the schematic and machine some more and I think terminal 7 controls KM2 and terminal 13 controls KM3 from the SA switch.

I tested 39 volts between terminal 7 and the transformer 0, when running forward normally. This drops to 0 immediately when the SA switch is cut off even though the KM2 relay has not tripped.

I think this isolates the KM2 relay as the culprit.

Since I have to take it out to find another one, I'll try and take it apart and see if there is any obvious problem before I buy another.

Thank you for your help.

Fred

No, this is the (Over) heating relay. Is

It is on the front of the machine

KM1 and KM2 have two wires going between that I think only allow one to operate at a time.

When pushed by hand both pop back quickly even when the lathe is misbehaving.

I uploaded two more drawings:

1. Is a diagram of the connector bar and units in the panel
   formatting link
   Shows the wire number labeling and diagram of the SA switch and other switches. I guess I should have uploaded all of this before.

I just posted the following at the original posting also:

------------------------------------------------------------------ Thanks to the input here. With all the new information, I've studied the schematic and machine some more and I think terminal 7 controls KM2 and terminal 13 controls KM3 from the SA switch.

I tested 39 volts between terminal 7 and the transformer 0, when running forward normally. This drops to 0 immediately when the SA switch is cut off even though the KM2 relay has not tripped.

I think this isolates the KM2 relay as the culprit.

Since I have to take it out to find another one, I'll try and take it apart and see if there is any obvious problem before I buy another.

Thank you for your help.

Fred

O.K. The setup designed to drop power from the motor if it stalls for whatever reason -- including a blown starting capacitor. It will hum for a few seconds, and then all the relays will drop out when the "FR" contacts in series with the KM1 relay coil open.

O.K. Outside of the pedestal, where chips could get at it?

[ ... ]

That is actually KM2 and KM3, as one connects the motor for forward, and the other for reverse. KM1 is the master run/stop relay. The cross wiring to keep KM2 and KM3 from being energized at the same time are the presence of the contacts from KM2 in series with the coil for KM3, and vice versa. Push both KM2 and KM3 at the same time and the breaker will blow very quickly as you will have a short across the power line to the motor. And you are likely to weld the contacts in at least one of the relays as well.

O.K. So if it isn't arcing holding it in (as your test on Terminal 7 seems to indicate) then there is either an arc between power contacts on the relay, or the contacts are not moving freely, even though the solenoid actuator does.

I still feel that the SA switch is the culprit.

[ ... ]

But you only gave the URL for one. I guessed (correctly) that the other was:

It would have helped somewhat.

Terminal 7 on the schematic being the one between terminal 2 of the SA switch and the contacts of KM3 in series with the coil of KM2? That looks more like a 'T' than a '7'. And I notice that the drawing of SA shows only the numbers of the wires to which it is connected, not the terminal numbers on the switch itself. And I guess the black dots show which contacts are closed in which position of the lever. It looks as though you must be in the stop position for the contacts connected between 4 and 5 to be closed, so the SB2 switch can turn on power to the other relays.

Are those high side of the relay coil contacts labeled 6, 8, and

10? I'm not sure about the '8'. But anyway, that is where I would be measuring the power to the relay coils. I wish that I could see where the terminals on the relays are for the coil wiring.

HL1 tells you when power is available to the lathe, and HL2 when you have pressed SB2 under the proper conditions to turn on power to the relays.

It looks as though KM1 stays engaged until you hit SB1 or until the overheat contact drops the relay.

Hmm ... if '7' is truly where I think it is on the schematic, then yes I agree after all.

There could be chips holding the relay engaged, or someone tried lubricating it and the lube gummed up. (The relays should not be lubed.)

You're welcome.

Good Luck, DoN.

So? Are you up and running, or still looking for all of the springs that flew out of your contactor when you stripped it?