Cleanup after tapping AL

I use JP1 fuel or acetone. I'm sure it's the worst thing to use but it degreases like a m-f... The JP1 leaves a oil to prevent rust but that's no problem on your AL.

Spray bottle of kerosene, a scrub brush followed by compressed air (outside, with eye & ear protection). That'll get you started.

GWE

Grant,

What I have done so far is run a machine screw through the hole using an electric driver, wipe off the slurry, and reverse the screw, then follow with household cleaner. Your idea sounds worth a shot. How does the scrub brush enter into it? The holes are 8-32.

Bill

Blow them off and put them in the dishwasher...the lazy solution!

dont do the dishwasher.... I cost me about 350, for a new dishwasher, when the wife caught me cleaning a carb in it... of course, that was 2 years ago, so the dishwasher is gone now and come to think about it... so is that wife!!!!!!!!!

Our shop uses compressed air to blow them out, making a HORRENDOUS shrieking noise. They all wear earplugs all day.

I use some stuff called alum-tap that is great for tapping aluminum. (I do some machine tapping at up to 1200 RPM for 4-40 threads.) I then clean them out with my own scheme, which is twirling the corner of a piece of paper towel into a point. I then poke it through the hole and twist it from the pointy end. I can do this about as fast as the CNC tapping machine drill-taps them. I'm sure there is a better way.

The alum-tap is pretty thin stuff, and wipes off with paper towels. Nowhere as sticky as threading oil.

Jon

Jon,

I am wondering whether pipe cleaners might be a good tool for this??? I do not have any, but from a quick scan of the web, crafts stores look like the best bet.

Sadly, I am using "mystery oil" (10W30??) from a cheap oil can that I filled a long time ago. I use it for things between light oil and Vactra, which lives in the best working oiler I have on hand.

Bill

I've been having very good results with a water soluable synthetic(?) cutting lubricant for drilling, tapping, sawing, knurling and turning on the lathe.. steel, ss, brass and aluminum.

The stuff is marketed by Lenox (a cutting tool brand, band saw blades etc), named Pro Tool Lube. The label states that it contains no silicone, is biodegradeable, and I think the stuff is glycerine-based. It's given excellent performance for all the cutting tasks mentioned above, and it rinses away with water, so I can shoot a stream of water from a trigger-spray bottle into (or thru) holes to flush cutting chips out easily.

There is no troublesome film or oily residue remaining after a plain water flush/rinse. When I want to paint parts that I've used the PTL on, I don't need to do any other preparation, other than what I'd normally do for bare metals.

WB ......... metalworking projects

I use a mascara brush. it is like a miniature bottle washing brush.

...and cleaning swarf out of tapped holes is all I use it for :-)

friend of mine made his own brushes using a row of bristles and aircraft lockwire twisted up.

Stealth Pilot

If you have an ultrasonic cleaner put them in there with the holes up (if they're blind). Poke a wire in each hole to dislodge any air bubbles. Oil will rise up put of them like smoke from a chimney. Randy ```````````````````````````````````````` `

Slosh it around in some solvent?

Or blow it with compressed air (preferably outside).

I use kerosene or diesel fuel to lubricate when cutting alumimum and that is a lot thinner than what you must be using. It this case, the cuttings (not sure what the "slurry" is) aren't so hard to get rid of with compressed air.

Pete Stanaitis

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Bill Schwab wrote:

Never tried it, but it sounds like a VERY good idea! Crafts stores definitely do have them. I think I am going to pick some up and try them out.

Gee, you DON'T want a lubricant for tapping, the idea is to let the edge CUT the metal. Tapping formulas are made to help that happen.

Jon

Many methods work. Depends on how much work you want to do and what your budget is like.... My home-shop method is the solvent soak/wipe. I use isopropyl alcohol, which is somewhat less unhealthy and safer than acetone. In the case of blind holes, I like to use a syringe and some kind of needle to flush the hole with solvent. You can always follow that with compressed air, as long as you don't mind wearing some of the small chips that come out of the holes at

Blow them out first. Makes the rest a lot easier. ...lew...

Spray in hole with Simple Green. Rinse with water. That's usually enough.

Blow with compressed air if necessary.

Wayne D.

Jon,

Fair enough. That might explain the small chips in the slurry. Do you have a favorite fluid? I have heard that Tap Magic is great, but IIRC, I also read that it stinks something awful???

Bill

Except for roll tapping, I presume.

Enjoy, DoN.

I've been having very good results with a water soluable synthetic(?) cutting lubricant for drilling, tapping, sawing, knurling and turning on the lathe.. steel, ss, brass and aluminum.

The stuff is marketed by Lenox (a cutting tool brand, band saw blades etc), named Pro Tool Lube. The label states that it contains no silicone, is biodegradeable, and I think the stuff is glycerine-based. It's given excellent performance for all the cutting tasks mentioned above, and it rinses away with water, so I can shoot a stream of water from a trigger-spray bottle into (or thru) holes to flush cutting chips out easily.

There is no troublesome film or oily residue remaining after a plain water flush/rinse. When I want to paint parts that I've used the PTL on, I don't need to do any other preparation, other than what I'd normally do for bare metals.

WB ......... metalworking projects