Clutch Pedal Repair - weld up & rebore?

I've got a worn clutch pedal to repair. The clevis pin which acts directly
on the clutch master cylinder, has almost worn through the side of the
pedal.
I was thinking of mig welding up the worn hole & then remachining it, but
thought I'd check with the "knowledge bank" here first....
I've put a pic of it in the dropbox:
formatting link

There was the remains of a bearing / wear ring in the pedal. It appears to
be hardish steel (magnetic) & is not bearing bronze which is what I thought
it might be.
Would a bearing ring machined from some phosphor bronze bearing material
work? Alternatives? I've no idea what specs the phos. bronze is that I'd
use - it'd be from the local hardware store supplier.
Of course, I'm fitting a new clevis pin etc.
thanks
Rob
Reply to
Robbo
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I think Id simply weld up the hole and redrill it, cause putting in a new bushing wouldnt leave much material. Big question is..how long did it take to wear like this?
Can you use a bronze clevis pin as a sacrificial part?
Gunner
Reply to
Gunner
That seems reasonable, but: I have an engine with bronze bushes on hardened rocker pins. Surprisingly, the bushes seem to relatively unworn, but the steel pins are badly notched. What's going on?
Reply to
Jordan
I'd weld the whole end of the arm proud. Grind back to original size. Drill new hole.
You're good to go for at least as long as the first time it took to wear this much.
Karl
Reply to
Karl Townsend
It's out of a Hino truck, 12 yrs old. I went investigating the "squeak" when the clutch operated and followed the trail of shiny metal flakes......
Reply to
Robbo
Many thanks for the replies Gunner, Jordan, Karl. Sounds like the mig is the way to go, if I can't get a new clevis assy or pin, I'll turn up a new pin from a 10mm bolt.
Appreciate the help. Rob.
Reply to
Robbo
What might work good here is a thin nylon bushing.
I had a similar problem on an old Chevy step van. There the clutch linkage had several bell cranks and connecting rods to actuate the clutch, and the wear in each of these compounded to the point where the only functional adjustment held a slight pressure on the throw out bearing and caused the bearing to die a premature death.
I did a weld and re-drill repair that worked very well.
Reply to
Roger Shoaf
The picture I see looks like a hammer - but I'd just braze the hole almost closed, making it as thick as possible, and then drill it out and put in the pin. Braze makes a decent bearing. Put a bit of greese on it when you assemble it.
Reply to
clare at snyder.on.ca

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