Welding steel to cast iron head?

The guy delivered the rebuilt Ranger 3.0 cast iron head the other day and my mechanic started to install it..and noticed that on one of the
rocker towers..something had been broken off..evidently long ago. The rebuilder claims he wouldnt have rebuilt the head "If it was busted when I got it"..but frankly...its an old break. Nothing clean and new looking about it.
It forms one side of a "groove" in the top of the casting that holds one of the rockers in place and keeps it lined up.....sorta like this:
_ _ _ l l-------l l but looks like this l l------l\
The head is finished but for that. So I stuck it in the mill and cleaned up the busted side and cut a .187 x .75 flat that I can weld a bit of steel to. It only keeps the rocker from spinning away from the valve. One side of a deep "groove" with a bolt hole in the middle of it to hold the rocker bolt.
What is the prefered way to attach that bit of steel to the side of a cast iron head? Braze? High Nickle silver solder? Tig with stainless? ???
The piece that I have to attach is .187 x .75 x 75.
I do have some 3/32 dowel pins I could install and then braze/weld/whatever the "plate" to the cast iron head, but I rather think its over doing it. It only keeps the rocker from turning away from the valve.
Any suggestions? Ive made the "plate", Ive milled the flat, filed everything to fit perfectly...I just need to know the suggested best way to attach it to the cast iron head.
Thanks for the advise
Gunner
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I wouldn't heat it on a dare! Bolts? Blind rivets? Marine-Tex---good shit Maynard!
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The guy delivered the rebuilt Ranger 3.0 cast iron head the other day and my mechanic started to install it..and noticed that on one of the rocker towers..something had been broken off..evidently long ago. The rebuilder claims he wouldnt have rebuilt the head "If it was busted when I got it"..but frankly...its an old break. Nothing clean and new looking about it.
It forms one side of a "groove" in the top of the casting that holds one of the rockers in place and keeps it lined up.....sorta like this:
_ _ _ l l-------l l but looks like this l l------l\
The head is finished but for that. So I stuck it in the mill and cleaned up the busted side and cut a .187 x .75 flat that I can weld a bit of steel to. It only keeps the rocker from spinning away from the valve. One side of a deep "groove" with a bolt hole in the middle of it to hold the rocker bolt.
What is the prefered way to attach that bit of steel to the side of a cast iron head? Braze? High Nickle silver solder? Tig with stainless? ???
The piece that I have to attach is .187 x .75 x 75.
I do have some 3/32 dowel pins I could install and then braze/weld/whatever the "plate" to the cast iron head, but I rather think its over doing it. It only keeps the rocker from turning away from the valve.
Any suggestions? Ive made the "plate", Ive milled the flat, filed everything to fit perfectly...I just need to know the suggested best way to attach it to the cast iron head.
Thanks for the advise
Gunner
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wrote:

Here are pictures of my problem child.
http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead #
Gunner
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wrote:

I'd vee the tab and TIG braze with silicon bronze or other non-fuming bronze rod. It's easy to do, requires no pre/post heat, and will put very little heat into the head.
--
Ned Simmons

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On 09/15/2010 10:22 AM, Ned Simmons wrote:

Or drill a hole in the middle of the tab and plug braze it (can you do that?).
There's certainly lots of surface area there if you could get something that'd bond across the whole face where the tab and head mate.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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wrote:

Indeed. The hole in the center is an option, as is high temp silver solder.
But putting a slight grove on the sides and running a tig bead down each side does sound easy to do.
Silicon or phosphor bronze?
Gunner
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wrote:

Wasn't there a thread on here a little while ago about brazing by tinning each piece, then heating the assembly? Heck, silver solder is brazing, I bet that'd work.
Pete Keillor
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On 09/15/2010 02:13 PM, Pete Keillor wrote:

I was going to suggest that (since I started the thread), but you'd have to get a whole lot of the thing really hot; I'm not sure what it'd do to the straightness of the head and the valve guides -- certainly if the head has any bits of rubber in it the idea is a no-go.
I'm for the TIG brazing, particularly since it's Gunnar who has to come up with the machine!
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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wrote:

The hole in the center would only attach it to that thin area in the stud path; much less to hold on to.

Couldn't hurt.

Yes. (Means: I have no idea.) http://www.weldguru.com/braze-cast-iron.html Maybe he knows. Hmm, maybe not. (Their web guy didn't. He linked to the aluminum repair video, and their brazing rod is ONLY $75 a pound.)
-- Not merely an absence of noise, Real Silence begins when a reasonable being withdraws from the noise in order to find peace and order in his inner sanctuary. -- Peter Minard
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Very good suggestion.
I think...think Ive got some silicon bronze. I know Ive got phosphor bronze ..quite a bit of it. Bad choice or ?
If its a bad choice..Ill pick up some silicon (assuming I dont have any) when Im down in LA this week.
Gunner
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wrote:

I don't think I've ever used phosphor bronze wire, but I have no reason to think it wouldn't be a good choice. Try sticking some scraps of steel and cast iron together and see how it works.
I mentioned sili bronze because it's pretty common and relatively strong. It's not the easiest bronze to use -- it's viscous and acts like there's a skin on the puddle. If I were doing it here I'd use A2 aluminum bronze because I have some, it's strong, and it's better behaved than silicon bronze.
http://www.wisconsinwireworks.com/aluminum_bronze.htm
--
Ned Simmons

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wrote:

Never having brazed with TIG, I'd try that first on a scrap head to see how it turns out for me.
Failing that, I'd use four small flathead screws and Loctite 271.
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wrote:

Since that is just to keep the rocker in place, why don't you just mill it down further on the head then drill and tap for two bolts, one over the other, and bolt a piece on the side of the block rather than screwing around with welding?
Jim
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wrote:

Looking at the picture, Brazing would work fine - but why not just drill, tap, and fasten with a couple small screws? Permanent loctite and bob's your mother's brother.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Well, Bob 'was' one of her brothers. ;-)
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On Sep 15, 4:13pm, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

If it's just to mount a block on a castiron base, I'd drill four holes; two for dowels to keep the block from shifting, two tapped for small screws to keep the block from lifting off. Or, some kinds of rivet might be good (the expands-at-bottom type like for blind holes in concrete). Then I'd butter the holes and mating surface with RTV silicone and mist it with water (to start it curing) and screw the block down.
Preheat for brazing in cast iron is a nuisance. Takes hours.
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I welded pipe flanges for 1" black iron pipe - the large flat with screw holes.
I stick welded them in the middle of A36 HRS plates used as stands.
Chinese flanges tend to flatten out and slump.
American flanges hold up nicely to stick and I welded through each hole.
Put on the 6' pipe and tried to tip it off the plate - it was on there. I figured it would hold a string of Helium filled balloons.
It was a Ni stick - black flux - have some in the shop still. Paid hazmat!!! Ni is a material that some people become sensitive to.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net "Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
On 9/16/2010 12:25 PM, whit3rd wrote:

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RCM only
wrote:

IANAM, but I'd braze that puppy. 'Course, that should have been done before the springs and rubber seals went back in. Maybe soak the bottom half of the head (lengthwise) in water while you braze to keep the heat entirely away from the rubber parts.
Take ya ten minutes from start to finish. Soak the head, 'tin' the tab, 'tin' the head, heat both, and braze together. The rocker should have a radiused block it rides on so the tab won't get so much pressure against it that it would try to pop off, I don't think.
Was it dropped against something?
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Maybe instead of trying to weld the head, you could find a way to attach the plate to the lifter instead. You didn't say what it's made of, but fsking up the lifter would be way cheaper to fix than fsking up the rebuilt head.
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