Welding steel to cast iron head?

wrote:


Unfortunately..thats not an option, based on how it all works. But thanks!
Gunner
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But Gunner, you said the valve cover almost touches the guide towers. It IS an option to attach the guide to the valve cover, instead of to the head. Mmmmm???
LLoyd
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On 09/15/2010 08:40 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Y'know Gunner, if you'd have just paid the guy to do the whole job he would have found some wonky way to install the lifter, then he'd have glued the valve cover on so you'd never have to experience the pain of seeing it.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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wrote:

Busting out rolling on the floor. Dry cough. & I quit what ever this year's date is ago. That was a good one.
I would have tightened that bolt a CH tighter and been in Hell A away from the warden.
Should be a thick hardened steel rod holding that all together and won't matter much in that direction anyhow. That bolt will hold it another 40k+.
SW
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Y'know... all kinds of folks jump ALL over someone for top-posting, but everyone in this thread has quoted the ENTIRE GD OP just to post one- liners.
All the complaining about "style", and not one single soul seems to have any _courtesy_ toward other posters OR the net bandwidth.
It's kind of like straining at gnats, doncha think?
Lloyd
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Sometimes top posting is appropriate. For example when someone posts just to say " I agree." Nothing worse than to scroll down a page to find the person that replied has added nothing of consequence.
The only thing worse is those that post just to say that the previous poster should have not top posted. I mean to say the idea is to convey intelligence. If someone is too slow and needs everything in the same format in able to comprehend what is going on, they ought to be ashamed to admit it in public.
Trimming is almost always appropriate.
Dan
On Sep 15, 9:08pm, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

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Thu, 16 Sep 2010 05:08:06 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@krl.org, snipped-for-privacy@krl.org wrote:

s/Sometimes/Never
In that case, trim everything except one or two sentences that embody the essence of what it is you agree with.

Agree. Sort of. I generally just hit tab to avoid scrolling.

Absolutely agree. I _might_ even remove the "almost."
--
☯☯


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wrote:

Staying on topic (If not with the group, then eat least with the subject) is also appropriuate.
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I never mentioned you. In fact, it was a shotgun comment based upon a number of folks who both rale about top posting and also copy the entire thread for every one of their posts.
LLoyd
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I just follow the average way, I can highlight the whole thing and shit can it, but I have never top posted.
If ya follow the tree it most certainly does point at me.
No big deal.
But see if I keep doing that others are gonna bitch, cause I can be fragmented and if there is nothing to look back at they don't faller.
SW
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On 2010-09-16, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:

    [ ... top posting ... ]

    Are you sure that it is the same people doing both?
    Enjoy,         DoN.
--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: < snipped-for-privacy@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Looked at the pics. I'd just use a TIG and braze the tab on. The opposite side gets a majority of the torque and I have seen a few 3.0 with broken alignment tabs. Normally I just grab a spare head but if that one has been worked then I would just fix it. Make DAMN sure you keep heat away from the valve springs and keep the head as cool as possible. The stem seals don't like heat and you don't want to have it reworked again if you cook them. Pull it apart if you want to be sure to keep them OK. I would anyway because you don't want any iron swarf in there.
--
Steve W.

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On 09/14/2010 11:44 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

I think that should have been "If I noticed that it was busted when I got it", or perhaps "If I cared to notice that it was busted when I got it".

I thought the normal prescription was to weld with nickel rod -- but then, that's after you strip the thing down to nothing.
Is there any way to bolt something on, and sidestep the need to braze/weld/solder? That'd certainly be the least risk.
I'd do it with JB weld on a bet -- but only if I were betting against the JB weld, and the payoff would fund the work of fixing it when it broke.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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How about a threaded hole and a bolt.
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:42:25 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

Check the photos I just posted...
Gunner
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Bob La Londe wrote: How about a threaded hole and a bolt.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I say "amen" to Bob's suggestion, AFTER looking at the pictures carefully. What is depicted that argues against his idea?
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:20:08 -0700, "Leo Lichtman"

The hole in the center of the "tower" and the fact the valve cover nearly touches the sides of the "towers"?
Gunner
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wrote:

That's where I get lost, how does this rocker cover hold oil in???
I bet the rocker will be just fine without that tab. Cover the surrounding area the best you can and weld it, can't get that hot to warp the head, just do it fast. The right rod... got me.
BTW did a great job matching it up.
SW
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On 09/15/2010 11:34 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Yup. You could use a countersunk screw, but there's not much meat there to thread a fastener into. You could do something like #4 screws (countersunk, of course) into the sides -- but I only suggest that because I have a master's degree in engineering, not because it actually has a chance of working.
Glue & screw may actually work -- I've seen screws + epoxy do amazing jobs. After you ruin ten prototypes, of course, but who counts?
Oh I know! Put it on with a #10 countersunk screw and JB Weld. Go ahead and go all the way into the stud hole. Then clean up the stud hole with a milling cutter followed by a tap. Do y'think that'll get me my consultant's fee?
--

Tim Wescott
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wrote:

No need to apologize for bailing out at MS?? level, Tim. <G>
4-40 flathead screws with Loctite would work just fine. Even 2-56 screws would probably suffice. It's not a fix a grease monkey would think of, but it'd be easy peasy for a machinist or gunsmith.
A good braze would be stronger, but all that's needed here is "enough". Gunner sez a dozen pounds. Call it 50 for a bit of margin. A bad braze with micro cracks in the surrounding casting, bad wetting, or foaming of the braze alloy would very likely fail, and the likelihood of getting a bad braze is significant for folks like me and Gunner having no experience brazing with TIG. Torch brazing ain't on the menu here unless the head is stripped and preheated, and even with that there is significant risk of warping. The advantage to TIG, if it works, is that you're in and out of there quick as a surgeon with a golf date, leaving a very limited heat-affected zone. The question is what happens in that very limited HAZ. Any crack upon cooling is a failure. Cast iron varies a lot in tolerance; some castings can be welded or brazed without difficulty while others are impossible. I have successfully repaired fractures in the intricate cast iron lattice work on the treadle of a vintage Singer sewing machine, totally failed on the exhaust manifold of an '80's vintage Japmobile.
So I'd either learn and verify a TIG brazing process experimentally on scrap stock, or I'd drill, tap and use flathead machine screws.
I'd go with TIG if I could find some cast iron to practice on, because I have lots of time, 3 working vehicles and no urgent need to be anywhere other than medical adventures with Mary and Mayo. If I were in Gunner's sit, I'd go with machine screws.
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