Welding steel to cast iron head?

The guy delivered the rebuilt Ranger 3.0 cast iron head the other day and my mechanic started to install it..and noticed that on one of the
rocker towers..something had been broken off..evidently long ago. The rebuilder claims he wouldnt have rebuilt the head "If it was busted when I got it"..but frankly...its an old break. Nothing clean and new looking about it.
It forms one side of a "groove" in the top of the casting that holds one of the rockers in place and keeps it lined up.....sorta like this:
_ _ _ l l-------l l but looks like this l l------l\
The head is finished but for that. So I stuck it in the mill and cleaned up the busted side and cut a .187 x .75 flat that I can weld a bit of steel to. It only keeps the rocker from spinning away from the valve. One side of a deep "groove" with a bolt hole in the middle of it to hold the rocker bolt.
What is the prefered way to attach that bit of steel to the side of a cast iron head? Braze? High Nickle silver solder? Tig with stainless? ???
The piece that I have to attach is .187 x .75 x 75.
I do have some 3/32 dowel pins I could install and then braze/weld/whatever the "plate" to the cast iron head, but I rather think its over doing it. It only keeps the rocker from turning away from the valve.
Any suggestions? Ive made the "plate", Ive milled the flat, filed everything to fit perfectly...I just need to know the suggested best way to attach it to the cast iron head.
Thanks for the advise
Gunner
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I wouldn't heat it on a dare! Bolts? Blind rivets? Marine-Tex---good shit Maynard!
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The guy delivered the rebuilt Ranger 3.0 cast iron head the other day and my mechanic started to install it..and noticed that on one of the rocker towers..something had been broken off..evidently long ago. The rebuilder claims he wouldnt have rebuilt the head "If it was busted when I got it"..but frankly...its an old break. Nothing clean and new looking about it.
It forms one side of a "groove" in the top of the casting that holds one of the rockers in place and keeps it lined up.....sorta like this:
_ _ _ l l-------l l but looks like this l l------l\
The head is finished but for that. So I stuck it in the mill and cleaned up the busted side and cut a .187 x .75 flat that I can weld a bit of steel to. It only keeps the rocker from spinning away from the valve. One side of a deep "groove" with a bolt hole in the middle of it to hold the rocker bolt.
What is the prefered way to attach that bit of steel to the side of a cast iron head? Braze? High Nickle silver solder? Tig with stainless? ???
The piece that I have to attach is .187 x .75 x 75.
I do have some 3/32 dowel pins I could install and then braze/weld/whatever the "plate" to the cast iron head, but I rather think its over doing it. It only keeps the rocker from turning away from the valve.
Any suggestions? Ive made the "plate", Ive milled the flat, filed everything to fit perfectly...I just need to know the suggested best way to attach it to the cast iron head.
Thanks for the advise
Gunner
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wrote:

Here are pictures of my problem child.
http://picasaweb.google.com/gunnerasch/RangerHead #
Gunner
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wrote:

Looking at the picture, Brazing would work fine - but why not just drill, tap, and fasten with a couple small screws? Permanent loctite and bob's your mother's brother.
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snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

Well, Bob 'was' one of her brothers. ;-)
--
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On Sep 15, 4:13pm, snipped-for-privacy@snyder.on.ca wrote:

If it's just to mount a block on a castiron base, I'd drill four holes; two for dowels to keep the block from shifting, two tapped for small screws to keep the block from lifting off. Or, some kinds of rivet might be good (the expands-at-bottom type like for blind holes in concrete). Then I'd butter the holes and mating surface with RTV silicone and mist it with water (to start it curing) and screw the block down.
Preheat for brazing in cast iron is a nuisance. Takes hours.
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I welded pipe flanges for 1" black iron pipe - the large flat with screw holes.
I stick welded them in the middle of A36 HRS plates used as stands.
Chinese flanges tend to flatten out and slump.
American flanges hold up nicely to stick and I welded through each hole.
Put on the 6' pipe and tried to tip it off the plate - it was on there. I figured it would hold a string of Helium filled balloons.
It was a Ni stick - black flux - have some in the shop still. Paid hazmat!!! Ni is a material that some people become sensitive to.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn @ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net "Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal. NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com /
On 9/16/2010 12:25 PM, whit3rd wrote:

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Gunner Asch wrote:

Maybe instead of trying to weld the head, you could find a way to attach the plate to the lifter instead. You didn't say what it's made of, but fsking up the lifter would be way cheaper to fix than fsking up the rebuilt head.
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wrote:

Unfortunately..thats not an option, based on how it all works. But thanks!
Gunner
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But Gunner, you said the valve cover almost touches the guide towers. It IS an option to attach the guide to the valve cover, instead of to the head. Mmmmm???
LLoyd
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On 09/15/2010 08:40 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Y'know Gunner, if you'd have just paid the guy to do the whole job he would have found some wonky way to install the lifter, then he'd have glued the valve cover on so you'd never have to experience the pain of seeing it.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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Gunner Asch wrote:

Looked at the pics. I'd just use a TIG and braze the tab on. The opposite side gets a majority of the torque and I have seen a few 3.0 with broken alignment tabs. Normally I just grab a spare head but if that one has been worked then I would just fix it. Make DAMN sure you keep heat away from the valve springs and keep the head as cool as possible. The stem seals don't like heat and you don't want to have it reworked again if you cook them. Pull it apart if you want to be sure to keep them OK. I would anyway because you don't want any iron swarf in there.
--
Steve W.

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On 09/14/2010 11:44 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:

I think that should have been "If I noticed that it was busted when I got it", or perhaps "If I cared to notice that it was busted when I got it".

I thought the normal prescription was to weld with nickel rod -- but then, that's after you strip the thing down to nothing.
Is there any way to bolt something on, and sidestep the need to braze/weld/solder? That'd certainly be the least risk.
I'd do it with JB weld on a bet -- but only if I were betting against the JB weld, and the payoff would fund the work of fixing it when it broke.
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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How about a threaded hole and a bolt.
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 09:42:25 -0700, "Bob La Londe"

Check the photos I just posted...
Gunner
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Bob La Londe wrote: How about a threaded hole and a bolt.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I say "amen" to Bob's suggestion, AFTER looking at the pictures carefully. What is depicted that argues against his idea?
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On Wed, 15 Sep 2010 11:20:08 -0700, "Leo Lichtman"

The hole in the center of the "tower" and the fact the valve cover nearly touches the sides of the "towers"?
Gunner
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On 09/15/2010 11:34 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

Yup. You could use a countersunk screw, but there's not much meat there to thread a fastener into. You could do something like #4 screws (countersunk, of course) into the sides -- but I only suggest that because I have a master's degree in engineering, not because it actually has a chance of working.
Glue & screw may actually work -- I've seen screws + epoxy do amazing jobs. After you ruin ten prototypes, of course, but who counts?
Oh I know! Put it on with a #10 countersunk screw and JB Weld. Go ahead and go all the way into the stud hole. Then clean up the stud hole with a milling cutter followed by a tap. Do y'think that'll get me my consultant's fee?
--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
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wrote:

Preheat with a big rosebud (or oven) and tig with stainless

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