compressor head gasket

I have no similar experience, but I think it would be wise to check surfaces for flatness. I can only assume that the problem shouldn't be happening and has a reason. Could be a minor adjustment of the head, or mating surface, could eliminate future occurrences.

Harold

Based on ease of scraping it off, the gasket seems to be compressed most around the bolt holes, ie the rather thin cast iron head deflects a little when I carefully and sequentially tighten the 6 bolts. I would like to try out gasket solutions before removing metal from the head or cylinders.

jw

| > JimW | >

| | I have no similar experience, but I think it would be wise to check surfaces | for flatness. I can only assume that the problem shouldn't be happening and | has a reason. Could be a minor adjustment of the head, or mating surface, | could eliminate future occurrences. | | Harold | |

In my opinion, more gasket material probably won't last longer in this application, since the aditional won't be compressed. If it's already been failing, higher compression would very likely increase the frequency of failure.

It could be that the surfaces are too slick to actually grip the gasket you replaced last. The surfaces shouldn't be too smooth (filled pores in the cast iron may offer no grip).

If the mating surfaces are remaining flat when the bolts are tightened, a better gasket material would perform better than more (square inches of ) gasket material. There are some severe conditions of heat, oil, air pressure and thermal cycling taking place in your situation (considerably worse if it's a 2-stage pump).

You might want to consult a gasket technical department. I would suppose that fully soft copper sheet would perform as well as almost any compound or synthetic/paper type, but possibly much better. Another consideration might be to O-ring groove (figure eight) the cylinder top or the head, and use a soft metal such as copper. I believe this O-ring grooving was sucessful in IC racing engines.

WB ...............

One of the Mechanical Engineers here suggested a small increase in gasket width in the area that blew out. I'll try a D shaped opening and HondaBond removeable engine gasket cement tonight.

The replacement was slightly narrower than the wall between the cylinders. I think the narrow section of the gasket works back and forth until it rips through. It ran OK at 120PSI for a while.

I know the compression ratio will increase but don't think the maximum cylinder pressure will, since it just vents into the big tank. The efficiency should improve.

Jim W

I'm with Harold.

Clean thoroughly to remove any old gasketing and then blue them up--rub some known flat surface against the block and head in order to find your high spots, and then lap / scrape the head or deck as needed.