I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage door, some turbines, and some windows. Is there a place where they sell these things that will easily fit the waffle configuration of the sidewalls? Or should I just go get some surplus metal doors and weld them up and shim accordingly? Mostly, I want a quality roll up door.
Steve
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Trevor Jones
I think the protocol is to cut straight lines, weld in the square tubing for framing the door, then mount the available hardware into the frame.
Sizing the hole, to suit the available door, of course.
Not sure. Never done it, but that has seemed to be the pattern, on the ones I have looked at.
Cheers Trev
B
Bruce L. Bergman
I'd go get a steel frame commercial door, and build your "Doorjamb" out of 2" x 4" mild steel tubing. Just like you were sliding it over the 2X4 of a framed wall.
I'd do it on ours, but Mom thought an Aluminum shipper would be better. Can't do it unless I want to invest in a spoolgun, and then I have to find big square or rectangle tubing in AL for the header and trimmers...
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texasjim1093
For the record, I had an aluminum container. What a disaster, had a roof leak, difficult to repair this type of roof as it has sealant and gasket between the aluminum and steel ribs. My observations are the same as the other posters regarding steel containers. The frames are welded in but I remember them being angles but not completely sure on that. The hardware looked like standard commercial stuff. I think you need a pretty wide piece to span the corrugations on the header. Why do you need a roll up door? Why not keep the factory doors and put in a set of double steel doors on the side or on the other end. If you have doors on each end you get ventilation in warm weather. How often are you moving something big enough to require the entire 8x8 opening? If the answer is not often, the original doors only take a couple of minutes to open and are quite sturdy. Also, there are specialty supply places that you can buy the gaskets for the original doors if needed. Something I wished I would have done with mine is put an awning off the side or end.
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Gunner
Or simply bolt it in.
My 20' is also aluminum
Gunner
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Martin H. Eastburn
I have a friend in California that has two. They both behave as rooms off his large shop. They are on concrete piers each of a unique height and laser leveled.
A truck and crane delivered and the mating was on the mark.
He stores finished parts in one and has raw material in another. Both are lockable.
Martin
Mart> I bought a 40' seagoing container. I want to put a roll up door, a passage
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Mark Dunning
Shading the top- with at least 6" of air flow between the shade and the top will make an ENORMOUS difference in the heat in the container.
Shading the sides and ends will help a lot, also.
Objective- don't let ol' Sol touch your unit.
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Trevor Jones
Yeah!
I lived in a sea can for a couple months, overseas.
If they are done right, they make great temporary quarters, but a coat of white paint, and at least a roof to keep the sun off the top, is a great place to start. A split air conditioner/ heater unit goes a long ways too! :-)
I have seen some pictures of sea cans built into some pretty decent sized buildings (like a 40 x 40 foot classroom, all open in the interior) as well as a couple that were sheathed in siding, with a nice verand/porch thing on the long side, using the overhanging roof for some shade. Whithout knowing it was a sea container to start with, you be hard pressed to tell.
Kinda interested in the subject, as I would like to use a few cans for various things, once I am settled down.
By then, I suspect that they will have found actual uses for them, rather than surplussing them all out. :-(
Cheers Trev
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