Installing locks

Get an installation jig, sometimes called a re-bore jig. Helps keep the holes straight, and can help you rebore a hole that is off some or a smaller hole (say from an old weiser dead bolt) that needs to be enlarged (tough to do by hand since there is no place for the piolet bit to ride). And just practice.

A square and a drill with a built in level is also a good way to get holes straight.

To align the strike plate, install the deadbolt first.. spray some wd-40 on the bolt, rub a construction crayon (red works best) on it, retract the bolt, close the door and let it come to its natural rest position, then slap the bolt against the jamb a couple times, then use the center of the red splat as the center of the hole in the jamb.

Most of the responses you've gotten we've very good but I would differ on just a couple of points.

1) Most deadbolts are 2 1/8". There are a few that are smaller (some schlage come to mind - but even they came with adapter rings so you could use them in a 2 1/8" crossbore)

2) Use lipstick but you don't have to buy it. Women buy it all the time and then they decide they don't like it (the color). Just ask. You'll get all you need for free. Most of mine comes from my Mon. (Wife doesn't were it -and I'm glad - it tastes like crap!)

3) If you don't have a jig use the paper template that comes with the new lock. First (using a center punch -preferably a spring loaded one), mark the hole on one side of the door and the hole on the edge of the door. Then ***without moving the centerpunch out of the mark for the edge bore***, rotate the template and mark the outside whole. (Don't forget to compensate for the door's bevel if it has one)

Next, using only a 1/4" bit (not the holesaw yet) drill halfway into the door from both sides. Your (pilot) holes should match up. Then drill the pilot hole for the edge bore. After that, use the holesaws and the pilot bit will follow the existing holes. With practice you won't need the drill pilot holes first, but for now it will be much easier (and if you mess up, the mistake will be much easier to correct).

Happy drilling!

Bobby

So much for my new installation kit. The bit for drilling the bolt hole works pretty well, but the hole saw sucks. It has a screw that screws thru the hole saw and onto the pilot bit to hold it all together, but it won't stay tight enough to drill for more than a minute or so. Guess that's what I get for buying cheap tools.

Do you guys drill the all the way thru the door on one side, or do you drill on both sides? I've been mounting deadbolts on the cabinet doors in my shop (not to lock anything, just to have it mounted so I can pick them). The hole starts clean, but when it finally gets thru the wood it splinters it really bad on the other side.

Do you guys also use the pencil or lipstick to fix a bolt thats hitting the strike instead of going in it? On my front door the bolt was hitting the strike, so I took the whole thing apart so I could smoke the bolt. It worked great but took way too long.

Is it ok to file the strike to help the bolt enter? I wouldn't want to file it down too much since it would weaken the strike.

woodworking 101... IF you do that, you MUST HAVE a block clamped to the BACK, to prevent splintering out as you experience it... normally, the good hole saws wont go completely through a door anyway... have to do from both sides... --Shiva-- nuk pu nuk

the bolt

screw that

all

than a

tools.

yep, ya really get what ya pay for when buying tools !

side, or do you

cabinet doors

so I can

gets thru the

ya really answered you're own question. drill from both sides..

thats

door the bolt

I could

usually just eyeball it. when a bolt is coming in contact somewhere that it isn't suppose to, it will leave some kind of sign that you can see. many doors have enough space between the door and jam where you can look directly at the problem.

wouldn't want to

that depends on the amount you're filing off. the correct way is to remove the strike, adjust the receiving hole accordingly and then relocate the strike in the correct position. note: always leave a (little) extra room. doors & door jams move, wood swells and shrinks depending on the weather.

g'day

Buy a good hole saw -blue mole is one brand I am happy with I am sure there are other that work just as well. Harbor Frieght will NOT have quality hole saws. I have the pilot bit out far enough that it comes through the door first. Just drill from the other side whe the pilot bit comes through and you will have a clean hole>

Do you guys also use the pencil or lipstick to fix a bolt thats

Lipstick works great for this too

Tecknicly no. Show me a smith who doesn't. If the bolt used to work fine and suddenly stops check the hinges for loose screws or bent /worn. "Hinge Doctor" is handy for this repair

Everybody gave good answers to the rest, for the hole saw, grind a flat on the side of the pilot bit and tighten the set screw against the flat. It will hold a lot longer that way. BBE.

Steve,

I think you mean a line level. If your drill has a nice flat top it works great.

Leon Rowell

Steve Paris wrote:

Answers inserted.

Drill on both sides. Meet in the middle. Otherwise it splinters, as you noticed.

As for the screw which comes loose, sometimes you can put a piece of paper in the hole, and then reinsert the screw -- the thikcness of the paper helps bind the threads.

Nail polish works fairly well as threadlock.

I don't like filing strike plates, but I admit to having done it many times.

In the states we just call it a bubble level.

If he's in the market for a drill Dewalt makes one with the level built in. It's a good drill too. Go with the keyed cheuck though. The keyless is not so good.

To make it easier drill the pilot hole all the way through then just use that when drilling from the other side.