cordless tool 18V to 12V converter

Feb 28, 2024 Last reply: 2 years ago 70 Replies

Hi everyone.

Posted at top of thread - wishing to thank everyone who contributed to this "journey" whose extent (effort, duration) I never anticipated.

Here is the outcome - what a surprise. In a very pleasant way! There is hope this is "for real". I handed the equipment to another person who came by to see how I as getting on, and trying it he concurs - it works and it is to be hoped this is "for real".

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"Rock-split granite with "cordless" SDS drill and "feathers""

Well would you ever have believed it...?!

Best wishes, Rich Smith

----------------------------------------- Congratulations on your success! You are a skilled problem solver.

The shims / feathers are soft, the wedges need to be hardened and tempered, as I found out with shop-made ones. A horizontal bandsaw can cut the taper angles or a smith can forge them from silver steel or old truck coil springs.

You might consider my alternate method if the boulders don't have far to go. I also have largeish boulders to move over uneven ground, at least to the trails where I can hoist and tow them on my 1 ton shop crane trailer. Before acquiring the drill I used a home-made gantry hoist of 3" x 8' channel iron with a 1 ton trolley, supported on various improvised legs of wooden A frames or pipe tripods. The wooden legs had trailer caster jacks as retractable landing gear to easily move the gantry by myself with the load lowered, where the ground was fairly level. On steeper slopes the low end of the track hung from a pipe tripod, which was harder to move. The legs on mine swing freely at the top connection which allows walking one leg at a time and adjusting for slope or bad footing.

The wheels of the Harbor Freight trolley were slightly too large for the 3" channel so I turned them down on the lathe. 4" channel takes them as-is, and has a better strength margin / less flex at full load. At the time I had only the 3", surplus pallet rack shelf supports.

I just discovered that the world's oldest still-working powered vehicle is an 1831 Stephenson-built locomotive in the Smithsonian museum nicknamed the John Bull. Here it's running (at reduced boiler pressure) on its 150th anniversary:

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Doe for an unspecified American is from the same source.

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Rich,

NICE job! You have a working solution to this problem👍

Forgive me... but my mind immediately went to why not make (or buy) some larger feathers to fit the Pneumatic drill hole and maybe some smaller feathers so your battery drill could use a smaller drill hole🤔

Not at all "forgive" - comment welcomed.

There are some large feathers for the 32mm to 34mm hole. Thing is, from my observation, they work no better than the small feathers on this granite. Line of small holes with matching feathers is "it".

Problem is the compressor isn't running all the time. Would be in a working mine, but this is a "hobby" mine. Splitting rocks and clearing debris is like an infil job which comes when it comes. Takes several people and some time to get the compressor running. Not going to happen when you find yourself with some time mid-way through a club morning at the mine.

If I could make some wedges of the same taper but thinner, maybe could come down to a 12mm / half-inch hole Area-ratio, so proportional to diameter-squared (/f (expt 14 2) (expt 12 2)) ;; 1.3611111111111112 (/f (expt 12 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.7346938775510204

73% of the area. Would be well worth having.

Yes absolutely {thumbs-up}

Best wishes, Rich Smith

If I'd got the Trow & Holden feathers they would have been as-described and I could use a 10mm drill

(/f (expt 10 2) (expt 14 2)) ;; 0.5102040816326531

Half the area and volume drilled.

"I had to start somewhere" :-)

Best wishes,

Thanks again everyone. Lots of very encouraging words - appreciated. When I wrote that webpage on the working solution I recalled how much interconnected detail there is in getting there.

Is it worth writing those webpages? Well it seems as if a lot of things is like climbing an ice face with two picks, and you don't let any grip be feeble. I get a lot of help and hopefully to some extent earn it.

Best wishes

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My thinking was if there were already big holes drilled and the piece hadn't been split you wouldn't have to make more holes.

Regarding whether to make a webpage with stuff like this... I gain info from lots of web pages that aren't exactly about the problem I'm trying to solve. I find them useful. You do a lot of the same. You're able to apply a concept or idea elsewhere in a completely unrelated field. As I've aged I now realize a lot of people can't do this😑

I used to call it relational hooks. There more stuff you know the easier it is to learn other stuff.

Richard,

Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article here

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Richard,

Have you tried or considered the old method of dry wood hammered into the holes and then wetting it, not something I've tried but an article here

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--------------------------------- I don't put much faith in academic scholars' guesses about Egyptian tech. The pyramid stones weigh around 5000 Lbs, a weight a small crew with j-bars can slide onto a flat bed truck, BTDT. I've lifted 4000 Lb logs to block them up off the damp ground.

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There are similar splitting cuts in stones at Mystery Hill in Salem NH, USA. The guides' explanation is that they were cut with a thin chisel for iron splitting wedges before the star drill was invented in the early 1800's. Water is easily squeezed out of wet wood.
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A similar but undercut slot is used to lift stones:
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3 legged one was a status symbol for Church officials.

Is it worth writing those webpages?

------------------------------ They are interesting and could be very valuable for a job application for a research project, showing you can both do innovative work and present the results clearly.

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I post for practice in clear technical explanation, a skill I've struggled with for much of my life, until I found a critical audience here whose opinions don't affect my yearly reviews or paychecks.

Lately I've been writing spreadsheets for practice. Today I completed one that calculates my taxes. My sister actually files them for me with professional software, and each year I've come closer to matching her results.

It was a technique I was told about decades ago as being a traditional method, the scholar's paper was just the first I came across when I searched for information.

Yeaay!

I believe there is a modern high-tech variant, famously exemplified when Jason Statham uses an expanding plug to crack the glass bottom of a mid-air swimming pool.

Ah yes, Dexpan, Crackamite and/or Expando. I thought it was real ...

Peter Fairbrother

I had that explained to me when I was in my mid-20's. I was confused - by just about everything - then chance had a significant encounter. Husband of a lady who grew up next door.

He explained - the problem is everyone else - because as he explained i was seeing things - correlations - they would never see. With people I like I have learned to handle that - let them see that I see these things and can make good results happen. If you otherwise fit in, they will relate to things like "this is the sole employer in town and we need it to survive". Was a happy time when I lived in "cider country" in England. The technical part of my brain was very functional then - warnings of becoming a "local yokel" were unfounded. "Win-win" situation.

I've told you something jolly. In Britain I have to work in jobs like welder because the ability is frightening in a highly managerialised society. Any difference from "mainstream average of averages" is instant rejection. That said - the vision of them hiding under their desks and whispering to each other "Has he gone yet?" is amusing. I tend to pour it on thickly when it's obvious this interview is going nowhere.

Not tried it - should, to respect forebearers and live their experience. Modern there is "splitting compound". Mix the powder with water - is expansile when "sets" - can be used to burst rocks. Never tried that. But yes if find opportunity would be good to try the ancient method and experience it. Would be good feeling of treading prior footsteps should I get it to work.

Not tried it - should, to respect forebearers and live their experience. Modern there is "splitting compound". Mix the powder with water - is expansile when "sets" - can be used to burst rocks. Never tried that. But yes if find opportunity would be good to try the ancient method and experience it. Would be good feeling of treading prior footsteps should I get it to work.

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I have a 10,000# pressure load cell and lots of dry wedge-shaped oak chips created by the log splitter, so I'll try it after today's chores. My experience from splitting heavy wet firewood small enough to lift to the top of the stack is that an axe hit inadequate to split the wood forces water from it on both sides.

What sort of oak? I'm reminded my doctor had an oak mail box made at some expense and it didn't fare well outdoors and from what I was told by a couple of woodworkers it must have been red oak as that's not durable outdoors. English oak, European oak and American white oak is durable so maybe some wood is better for splitting rock than others.

I had another look at the wet wood splitting and saw mention of wet wood being hammered in and allowed to freeze in the winter to cause splitting.

What sort of oak? I'm reminded my doctor had an oak mail box made at some expense and it didn't fare well outdoors and from what I was told by a couple of woodworkers it must have been red oak as that's not durable outdoors. English oak, European oak and American white oak is durable so maybe some wood is better for splitting rock than others.

I had another look at the wet wood splitting and saw mention of wet wood being hammered in and allowed to freeze in the winter to cause splitting.

-------------------------------- Waiting for laundry water to heat on the woodstove.

The red oak chips are too irregular, I found some extra pine wedges sold to shim doors and windows.

I've heard that white oak lasts longer but the fungus here attacks it faster. The red oaks I marked to cut for firewood could stand for 10 years after dying and still only be rotted at the damp base and top branches, the trunks were solid and dry enough to split and burn immediately. Pallets made of red oak last outdoors for decades unless directly on damp ground. It's used for flooring on construction trailers that stay outdoors. White oaks rotted inward from the bark and went bad much sooner. I looked for it to saw into furniture lumber but found no unrotted dead white oak in the forest, only one in my yard that I cut down soon after dying.

What sort of oak? I'm reminded my doctor had an oak mail box made at some expense and it didn't fare well outdoors and from what I was told by a couple of woodworkers it must have been red oak as that's not durable outdoors. English oak, European oak and American white oak is durable so maybe some wood is better for splitting rock than others.

I had another look at the wet wood splitting and saw mention of wet wood being hammered in and allowed to freeze in the winter to cause splitting.

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The load cell is an older model of this, last calibrated in 1992.

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rest of the fixture is a C clamp pressing the wood against the plunger.

Two thin pine wedges tapped together gave a splitting force around 100 Lbs. I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark, on a 3/8" thick square of red oak in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge needle hasn't moved.

I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark, on a 3/8" thick square of red oak in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge needle hasn't moved.

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4 hours later, if anything the pressure has decreased by the pointer width. Into the freezer with it, until I need the space for the kettle of beef stew I'm cooking.

I doubled it to 200 Lbs, one tick mark, on a 3/8" thick square of red oak in a plastic bag and added water about 20 minutes ago. So far the gauge needle hasn't moved.

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4 hours later, if anything the pressure has decreased by the pointer width. Into the freezer with it, until I need the space for the kettle of beef stew I'm cooking.

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2 more hours, 0F, the pressure is zero and the C clamp isn't tight. Out to see if the pressure recovers as the gauge warms.

It does, a little.

Either wet wedging doesn't work or I missed something.

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