cordless drill questions

I'm thinking of getting a cordless drill, mostly for use on the boat where I don't always have access to AC. My thought was to get a 12
volt model and make some sort of adapter so I could run it from the boat's storage batteries. My experience with cordless power tools so far has been that the batteries are the part that fails.
Since it will only see occasionaly use and I expect it's batteries to be useless anyway, I'm looking towards the cheapy models. There are a couple (on special at Canadian Tire for you canuks) a 12 and a 14.4 volt model that appear to be the same, and I found myself wondering if in fact they might be identical except for the battery packs. The only difference in the specs is the 12 says 0-550rpm, the 14.4 says 0-600.
Has any body run a nominal 14.4 tool with 12 volts and did it perform OK or did it overheat, shorten the life of the motor, etc?
Does anybody have the inside dope on these kinds of tools and know whether these might actually be identical except for the battery?
Has anybody made an adapter to run a cordless tool from a 12 volt storage battery? How did you approach this? I have a couple of ideas but I always welcome more...
TIA
Mickey
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The tools don't handle correctly without a battery pack installed. The battery pack is heavy, and if you remove it, for instance, you can't put down a drill on its base -- it will just fall over. If I were you I might try the Harbor Freight el cheapos. Those tools are cheap enough so you can throw them away without much pain if something isn't right. I bought a bunch of DeWalt 18V cordless stuff a few years back and every one of them has worked flawlessly so far. I only wish they made a cordless hedge trimmer.
Grant Erwin
Mickey Feldman wrote:

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On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 04:18:31 GMT, Mickey Feldman

Get yourself a yard sale drill for five bucks or less and solder on a length of lamp cord with a couple of battery clips or a lighter plug and your in business Gerry :-)} London, Canada
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Mickey Feldman wrote:

Why not use a 12 to 120 volt dc to ac converter for the charger ? Martin
--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer snipped-for-privacy@pacbell.net
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I'm not sure about Canadian Tire but I sell power tools on Saturdays and we sell some very expensive cordless drills that are of different voltages that use the same housings. The motors are slightly different to accommodate the different voltages. The tools' torque ratings are different while the RPM stays consistent.
YMMV.
Regards,
Robin
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wrote:

Interesting Blue Laws in Canuckistan.
Gunner
"This device is provided without warranty of any kind as to reliability, accuracy, existence or otherwise or fitness for any particular purpose and Bioalchemic Products specifically does not warrant, guarantee, imply or make any representations as to its merchantability for any particular purpose and furthermore shall have no liability for or responsibility to you or any other person, entity or deity with respect to any loss or damage whatsoever caused by this device or object or by any attempts to destroy it by hammering it against a wall or dropping it into a deep well or any other means whatsoever and moreover asserts that you indicate your acceptance of this agreement or any other agreement that may he substituted at any time by coming within five miles of the product or observing it through large telescopes or by any other means because you are such an easily cowed moron who will happily accept arrogant and unilateral conditions on a piece of highly priced garbage that you would not dream of accepting on a bag of dog biscuits and is used solely at your own risk.'
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I build dies Sunday through Friday and sells tools on Saturday (mostly as a distraction).
Good one anyway, Gunner....
Regards,
Robin
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Gunner wrote:

This from someone who runs (ugh!) Windoze!
Ted
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On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 18:20:31 GMT, Ted Edwards

My XP Pro machine has had an uptime of 11 months so far. My Mandrake 9.1 box has gone down twice in that time.
Shrug
Gunner
"This device is provided without warranty of any kind as to reliability, accuracy, existence or otherwise or fitness for any particular purpose and Bioalchemic Products specifically does not warrant, guarantee, imply or make any representations as to its merchantability for any particular purpose and furthermore shall have no liability for or responsibility to you or any other person, entity or deity with respect to any loss or damage whatsoever caused by this device or object or by any attempts to destroy it by hammering it against a wall or dropping it into a deep well or any other means whatsoever and moreover asserts that you indicate your acceptance of this agreement or any other agreement that may he substituted at any time by coming within five miles of the product or observing it through large telescopes or by any other means because you are such an easily cowed moron who will happily accept arrogant and unilateral conditions on a piece of highly priced garbage that you would not dream of accepting on a bag of dog biscuits and is used solely at your own risk.'
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On Thu, 22 Jul 2004 08:09:55 +0000, Gunner wrote:

If you are using the classical definition of uptime that would imply that you haven't been applying the security updates for XP...
Your bitrate may vary, but I've never been overly impressed with Mandrake's reliability. The RedHat, SuSE, Solaris, and FreeBSD boxes that I manage and/or use have all proven to be extremely reliable. The only "downtime" those systems have is the scheduled reboots to install new kernels following a security errata update. I don't use the classical definition of uptime and consider a scheduled reboot following a kernel update not to count against a systems uptime. On that basis I have a large number of Unix/Linux systems with uptimes measured in years.
--
The instructions said to use Windows 98 or better, so I installed RedHat.


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Jim Levie wrote:

My 2 Redhat 9 boxes have never crashed. I've only brought them down for periodic drive Ghosting.
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wrote:

of course. Ive rebooted a couple times for security updates, but thats all.

Indeed.
Gunner
"At the core of liberalism is the spoiled child - miserable, as all spoiled children are, unsatisfied, demanding, ill-disciplined, despotic and useless. Liberalism is a philosphy of sniveling brats." -- P.J. O'Rourke
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Gunner wrote:

I ran into some years ago - drove down to go to summer school - was able to buy food but nothing to eat it with! - e.g. no forks or spoons or knives...
Martin
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Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer snipped-for-privacy@pacbell.net
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Take the battery pack apart, run wires to the terminal posts inside, and run a cord out the back. you have now made an adapter that will run the tool and it will still accept the battery packs as well.
--
Peter DiVergilio
Most of the money I've wasted was mostly spent trying to impress people who
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Add a fuse too. Somewhere about 15-20A should be about right.
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How about getting an inverter (12VDC to 120VAC) and using a corded drill? The inverter can be used to run other 120VAC equipment, if properly sized. The cost of the inverter would be relieved by avoiding purchase of more cordless tools, which are typically more expensive than corded ones of the same power. Voila', no cordless batteries to fail.
On Wed, 21 Jul 2004 04:18:31 GMT, Mickey Feldman

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My thoughts exactly. The 18v cordless I've got has a keyless chuck which works well for 1/4" hex stuff like screwdriver bits but really sucks for round-shank drills. My dad had a Makita with a keyed chuck that would hold round bits securely, but didn't have enough guts to drill reasonable sized holes. If you're doing a lot of work with driving fasteners, a cordless may do you, but the higher the voltage, the better the torque, usually. If all you've got is 12v. available, you're probably going to want to get an inverter anyway and then you can charge up the higher voltage battery packs, or just bypass the whole thing and use a regular corded drill, if you want to make holes.
The sweet spot for inverter sizes keeps going up, you can get an 800 watt inverter now for about $40-50 depending on which Sunday paper ad you look at and which car parts chain it's for. A single spare battery pack for a drill will cost you close to what one of the inverters costs, you WILL want more than one pack if you go that route. Mine will run my 4x6 bandsaw, or the small HF drill press, or the 7x minilathe as well as the hand drill. Can't quite cope with starting current on the Skilsaw, though. Might get a 1200 watt inverter in a couple of months when the prices drop again. I use a deep cycle 12v. battery I found in a parking lot to run it.
Stan
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Mickey Feldman wrote:

When the last of my 7.2 volt batteries died, I started running my 7.2V Makita tools on my Makita 9V batteries. No problems after about five years.
As do all of these overpriced NiCd packs, My six year old Makita 9V batteries are on their last legs. I picked up a 12V drill complete with charger and _two_ batteries at XSCargo in Kelowna for $25. This, and a 12 to 120V inverter to run the charger would do you well.
I might rebuild the Makita packs myself with NiMH cells but I sure as Hell won't pay Makita's price for battery packs.
Ted
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How much do they want locally? I sell Makita 7.2V bats for $35 Cnd, 9.6V for $40... That's pretty cheap as far as quality batteries go. If you can find the Japanese batteries, all the better. They don't make them like they used to...
Regards,
Robin
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Robin S. wrote:

What type of cells, what capacity and where do you ship from? (UPS from the US is not an option.)
Ted
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