I'm confused here. A "direct" drive does not have a transmission. The blade is bolted directly to the motor shaft.
The worm drive is the saw with a transmission which is really just two gears.
chuck
Not easily or cheaply - the word hypoid refers to a geared speed reducer between the electric motor and the blade arbor. Hard to refit that onto to a table saw.
Call your local pawnshops and ask for a Skil Model 77, MAG77 or HD77 framing saw. That's the most popular model of worm-drive saw in the USA. They are around $100 new on special, $150 to $200 full price. Others are the Bosch 1677, Ridgid R3210)
If you buy a used saw you want one that still has the blade safety on it, since some carpenters like to take it off or tie it back and disable it as a show of machismo (and it does interfere with certain types of cuts) - and then they slip and take a big chunk out of their leg with the exposed blade (Oopsie!) and have to hock their tools to pay the doctor bills...
They /should/ have a spring-loaded latch on the blade safety, so you can bypass it for one of those dovetail cuts where the safety interferes - and when you take your finger off the power trigger at the end of the cut the safety releases, and the cover can snap closed again before you set the saw down.
"But that will never happen - it would simply make too much sense..." (c) 2005 BLB
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote in news:1108568112.345291.106710 @l41g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:
Seems like I read about cutting plate with a wood blade by turning the blade (steel, not carbide) around and the friction of the teeth hitting the steel would melt the steel, but because each tooth is only in momentary contact with the steel, the blade will hold up for a while. Also seems like I read it is VERY noisy and VERY dirty.
Anyone else hear of this technique?
I've got a question about technique.
When I cut wood with a skil saw, I usually set the blade so that it protrudes below the foot 1/8" or so more than the thickness of what I'm cutting.
It is recommended for a dry cut chop saw to always cut through the thinnest section possible i.e. cut angle with both legs on the table like so: ^ not like: L (except for miters)
It seems like the minimum protrusion of blade (the wood scenerio) would cause the blade to cut through a thicker section.
How far beyond the thickness of steel section do you set the blade for cuts using a dry cut blade in a skil saw?
It seems like a trade off between safety and blade life.
Does it matter?
Jeff Dantzler
I prefer to have the blade extend more than just beyond the depth of cut. Can't cite any real improvements in cut quality, chatter, blade life, or anything. Probably because I have not tried cutting anything that wasn't very securely clamped and was 1/8" or thicker. I like the idea of a tangential cut which is at a 90 degree angle to the base of the saw as this will pull the saw and material together with less of a tendency to kick the material out of the front of the saw. But I've not had any problems with doing scarfing cuts to put a taper on a piece of steel. Caution and patience should be used when using these things, but they work so well that you can easily become complacent and careless. Which type of cut will keep the blade sharp longer, can't say, it is still cutting the volume of material either way. If you don't force the cut, I suspect life could be the same.
I use a Matsushita blade in a garage sale skil saw. This saw does all my metal cutting, especially when I use abrasive blades. The only reason that I would consider getting a worm drive saw to use with these blades, is that someone gave one to me or I was going to use one a whole lot.
I popped the image larger and it was a diamond with a circle. Just like the Freud I put on it tonight. (Making a lathe way protection board - so when it gets loaded on the truck, the ways won't get beat up. (one can only hope...)
Martin
Cool - I'll have to give one or both a try. Used the saw tonight - what power - had to junk the old direct - 30+ years old and a cheape at the time. Got a new worm one for Christmas - wife bought the 6 1/2" blade version - So I have to locate those sources for wood and metal blades.
Martin
The Skill saw I have is an HD5825 - it is the 6 1/2"
Mart> On 17 Feb 2005 05:32:12 -0800, snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: >
Great - printed and saved it in a special location for the next shop. Got the saw for a new deck , now maybe additional work in the other shop!
Martin
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