Cutting aluminum using carbide saw

Also, use a little WD40 on the blade. If you're going to buy a blade, get one of the non-ferrous ones.

Wear safety glassess

FS

Why would you put a water-displacing compound on the blade? Why would you put WD-40, which attracts dust and turns to gum, on anything?

Because it's convenient and it works. Kerosene also works, IIRC, but how many of us keep it around in a squirt can?

I can't be the only one who does, can I?

I was raised next the RR (in the era of steam) and I smelled enough kero to last ten lifetimes. It always reminds me of dirt and being poor.

Ah, you have to steal the wife's scented kerosene from the pretty-lamp-filling bottle. Or, Marvel Mystery Oil which is pretty much the same stuff.

Yes, I have some experience (about 15 years and several tons worth).

1. Make sure your blade and fence are properly aligned parallel to the miter slot.

1. Read, understand, and obey all safety rules associated with the use of a table saw. If you get a kickback while cutting hunks of aluminum, you'll be lucky to be live and tell about the experience.

2. Wear an apron and full face shield. The chips are sharp, hot, and come streaming toward you at high speed. They will cut and even embed into any soft tissue (like skin and eyes).

1. Use a blade designed for non-ferrous metal cutting. This would have a "tripple-chip" tooth grind with a negative (or neutral) hook (rake) angle. A standard wood cutting blade (alternating top bevel) will dull very quickly and become hazardous.

2. Use some sort of lubricant. The aluminum will weld itself to the teeth and fill the gullets of the blade if you don't. I do so much aluminum cutting that I have a spray mist unit on the saw. A stick wax lubricant works pretty darn good. I would not feel comfortable using flamable liquids (like kerosene).

This really isn't an activity for the novice tablesaw user. If you are not already familiar with using a tablesaw then learn all the ins and outs cutting wood first.

Hope I've been able to help.

Ed Bennett snipped-for-privacy@ts-aligner.com

I suggest a saber saw for the less adventuresome.

jw

I have used stick wax in the past with good results. If you have longer cuts you would have to re-apply. Also, a strip of 2" masking tape helps protect the edges from scratching from the saw. Makes it easier to slide also. If you overlap the cut line 1" on each side of the cut, make your mark on the tape and then make your cut...

that aluminum (series 6000) could easily be cut using a table saw if the blade is made of carbide teeth.

safety of it ?

I've done it several times - wear full face protection AND goggles, as well as a good heavy pair of coveralls. The chips fly fast far and furious - and they are hot and sharp.

Do NOT use your circular (skill) saw - if the chips get into the motor at all they WILL damage the armature. Ask me how I know.

After expensive lesson number one, I've used my old Beaver 8" table saw (with a cover over the motor (which has a drip-proof case) for good measure.).

I draw the line to cut with a candle. The parafin does a better job of keeping the chips from welding to the carbide than WD40 can ever hope to do.

Thanks for all the good information provided here. I've learned a lot in reading and i'm now equipped to do the work !

Someone at the metalshop where i was buying a few aluminum flat bar tell me that aluminum (series 6000) could easily be cut using a table saw if the blade is made of carbide teeth.

Does someone has the experience of doing this and what about the results and safety of it ?

I always use WD 40 or one of its clones when machining aluminium. Kero stinks !

Tom

Just ease the metal into the blade very slowly. If the metal smacks the teeth in any way it can strip the carbide right off faster than you can blink. I've seen one of these blades minus the carbide, and neither it nor the saw it was in looked too pretty. The carbide chunks that come flying off have a nasty tendency to turn into bullets.