Cutting teeth in a ratchet wheel

What do you have to work with? I can see a rotary table in vertical orientation setup at one end of the BP facing outward with the wheel mounted to it hanging down past the front of the BP table. BP ram moved out to get the spindle center in line with the wheel. Custom grind slotting saw on an arbor. Index the rotary table, do the cut with the X, index, etc. You would of course have to measure everything to see if it would really fit that way, and presumably make a backer mounting plate to attach your wheel with 14" hole onto a presumably smaller than 14" RT.

Sucks to be you today... (:

I'm lazy and would start thinking about some sort of CNC conversion that would eliminate this monster.

OTOH, the guys that sharpen sawmill blades might have some ideas for you...

Send it out for laser or water-jet cutting.

Hire a machinist :-)

This is when a shaper works wonders.

And of course the wheel would be hung over the front of the table..or even the back and parallel with the X axis

That means you have to have about 19-20" of space between the top of the table and the quill. Most BPs will stretch that far. If not..put in a riser block..or hang the holder over the front of the table and downwards and then tilt the head , because the disk might hit the Y axis ways if one tried to do this straight up and down.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Ayup..that would indeed be the easiest, and it can be finished with a file.

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Before I used a backsaw, I would use a angle grinder. And after getting it roughed out, switch to a flap disk instead of using a file.

You might also consider roughing it out with an angle grinder and then profiling a grinding wheel on a bench grinder to clean up the teeth.

Or use a Thompson table.

Dan

Get one of these:

Makes the job less labor intensive. Close enough for tom to go and get it and save on the shipping.

Best Regards Tom.

Hmmm, I do have a hydraulic broach...I'd have to make a cutting tool but it could be supported on the bottom in recirculating bearings. I wonder if it could do the whole tooth in 8" of the broach tool.

Ain't that cheating?

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You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.

Best Regards Tom.

You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.

Best Regards Tom.

You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.

Best Regards Tom.

That would be good too. Particularly if he made his own form tools

Gunner

The methodology of the left has always been:

1. Lie
2. Repeat the lie as many times as possible
3. Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
4. Eventually, the uninformed believe the lie
5. The lie will then be made into some form oflaw
6. Then everyone must conform to the lie

Not really. I think I'd hire a welder if I was building a bridge.

Actually, since you posted the original message on the 4th and today is the 5th, one would assume that the job would be finished already :-)

If I had to do this job with what I own I'd use my index to drill a circle of dowel pin holes and then make a bandsaw jig that located the blank from each dowel pin and the center hole.

I'd clamp the index and a bench drill press to a long solid surface to drill the holes, then jack up a length of straight stock on a hydraulic table to bandsaw table height and guide the center and index dowel pins along its edge.

I think I could jig up up my surface grinder to support and locate the center and finish the radial edges with a dish wheel. I would measure the spacing between all the pin holes and use a spreadsheet to calculate the offsets to correct for their variations with the Y table feed. Pin n's proper position is at SumOfAll * n/118 from the starting pin, which is the one that makes all corrections a positive number. It's actual position is the sum of the spaces before it. Each space is the measurement across the pins minus the diameter of one, which the spreadsheet does for you. I'd double-check SumOfAll with a tape measure.

If the errors are small the pivot could be attached to and move with the table. If they are large the pivot holder should be clamped to the frame so it stays in line with the grinding wheel edges and table travel axis. Then the pivot would have to be able to slide, or bend if it was a rod rising from the floor.

Good Luck with it jsw

I see that and it's a good, simple solution. Thankz!