The wheel is 36" dia., .3125" thick and has a 14" hole in the center and six equidistant mounting holes .375 dia. 1" from center hole. There needs to be 118 teeth that are 3/8" deep and have a leg of the triangular tooth that is a radian and the other leg is 60 degrees.
I see doing them with a hacksaw and a file after blued and laid out by hand. (maybe a power saw) Any better ideas? I can't visualize mounting it on the BP.
What do you have to work with? I can see a rotary table in vertical orientation setup at one end of the BP facing outward with the wheel mounted to it hanging down past the front of the BP table. BP ram moved out to get the spindle center in line with the wheel. Custom grind slotting saw on an arbor. Index the rotary table, do the cut with the X, index, etc. You would of course have to measure everything to see if it would really fit that way, and presumably make a backer mounting plate to attach your wheel with 14" hole onto a presumably smaller than 14" RT.
And of course the wheel would be hung over the front of the table..or even the back and parallel with the X axis
That means you have to have about 19-20" of space between the top of the table and the quill. Most BPs will stretch that far. If not..put in a riser block..or hang the holder over the front of the table and downwards and then tilt the head , because the disk might hit the Y axis ways if one tried to do this straight up and down.
Gunner
The methodology of the left has always been:
Lie
Repeat the lie as many times as possible
Have as many people repeat the lie as often as possible
Hmmm, I do have a hydraulic broach...I'd have to make a cutting tool but it could be supported on the bottom in recirculating bearings. I wonder if it could do the whole tooth in 8" of the broach tool.
You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.
You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.
You should be able to 3/8" deep, worth a try. Even if you have to do two cuts its faster than grinding, filing, sawing, etc. First cut do the 60 degree, second cut the radian.
If I had to do this job with what I own I'd use my index to drill a circle of dowel pin holes and then make a bandsaw jig that located the blank from each dowel pin and the center hole.
I'd clamp the index and a bench drill press to a long solid surface to drill the holes, then jack up a length of straight stock on a hydraulic table to bandsaw table height and guide the center and index dowel pins along its edge.
I think I could jig up up my surface grinder to support and locate the center and finish the radial edges with a dish wheel. I would measure the spacing between all the pin holes and use a spreadsheet to calculate the offsets to correct for their variations with the Y table feed. Pin n's proper position is at SumOfAll * n/118 from the starting pin, which is the one that makes all corrections a positive number. It's actual position is the sum of the spaces before it. Each space is the measurement across the pins minus the diameter of one, which the spreadsheet does for you. I'd double-check SumOfAll with a tape measure.
If the errors are small the pivot could be attached to and move with the table. If they are large the pivot holder should be clamped to the frame so it stays in line with the grinding wheel edges and table travel axis. Then the pivot would have to be able to slide, or bend if it was a rod rising from the floor.
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