Finally a gloat for me

(this message may duplicate from eternal-september when they get around to sending it in a year or two)

(image links inline with text - questions towards the end)

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I have known for several years now that my little 1/4 hp, eight-inch swing drill press was inadequate for all of my needs (especially the short swing) My current project has put a head on this, so when providence lined me up a suitable item, I followed through.

I now own an old Rexon RDM-100A drill press, 1/2 hp, 14" swing, which I acquired for sixty bucks. Not a Gunner/Iggy "take the machine, the car, and my teenaged daughter" deal, but I am very happy.

It is still a bench-mount unit, but substantially larger than my old Delta. It is sturdy enough to do what I need to do with it, but still portable enough to yard into the carport when I need to do a job outside.

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It also uses an idler pulley, so I now have 16 speeds instead of five, and can be more precise in my feedrate selections.

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Something that I think is pretty neat is the built in location for a light bulb (I'll need to work a spotlight in there on a hinge).

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This is also the first drill press I have owned which uses a morse taper (MT2) to accept the chuck arbor, so I will be able to mount drill bits using collets in those cases when the chuck doesn't grip them tightly enough (what all do I need to start working this angle?)

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I was able to figure out that this machine is about the same as the current Harbor Freight unit 38142, and have the manual for that machine. That led me to figure out the assumed function of the little chrome-plated handle shown in this picture, but despite loosening the two thumb screws, the handle doesn't want to turn more than an 1/8". Where should I squirt some lube to help free up this mechanism?

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Anywho, I finally have a drill press that I can do some real work with. Yay!

Jon

Reply to
AIOE
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I guess it is helpful to fill in the name field when I set up a new usenet account.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

Looks good. Just a guess, but is the handle to tension the idler / belts, so you'd expect it not to turn too much?

Try one of those directional reflector lamps, it may give you more light where you need it.

Reply to
Royston Vasey

Aye, that's how it is described in the (HF model's) manual. I'll play with it some more today when I build a shelf so it doesn't tower over me like Godzilla.

Sounds intriguing, gotta picture or a link? I was thinking about a quartz lamp, they produce a bright light, but it would require a fan to keep it cool and wouldn't be very safe.

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

I think that it is a great deal!

And I can buy your old DP if you are in Chicagoland.

i
Reply to
Ignoramus3609

Heh, I thought of that! I'll likely keep the little guy for now, it's pretty handy for keeping on the workbench, but we'll have to see where it ends up in time. Once I get an adjacent lower shelf built for the big guy, I may just end up using it for all of my drill press needs (and find the resulting increase in workbench space too handy to pass up).

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

(...)

Congratulations!

That drill press will serve you well. Probably even better than my 'King Kong' drill press has served me! :)

Have a look at page 5 of:

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Sounds like the rods supporting the motor bracket need cleaning. You may wish to tilt the machine horizontal so you can see under the pulley cover easily.

Sounds like a couple vigorous applications of mineral spirits using an acid brush would loosen the congealed grease sufficiently.

--Winston

Reply to
Winston

Thanks Pete. I'll play around with that later today and see if I can go through the speeds on it. I was too excited yesterday to trust myself to do anything beyond a little cleaning. :D

Jon

Reply to
Jon Danniken

There is still a Rexon company, and they may be able to provide the manual. But the RDM-100A of today is not quite the beast you have.

They may have a US distributor. The URL doesn't work, but I didn't try the phone number.

Use a small flood, not a spot, or the light in your eyes will interfere.

I see rust bleeding down the quill. It could use some cleaning and slathering with Vactra #2 way oil. Start with WD40, as there may be water up there. Or leave out in the sun for awhile.

The best solution to drill bits slipping in a chuck is to replace the chuck, which is easy on a press with a taper. Most kinds of collet don't grip tightly enough to prevent spinning, and spinning will ruin the collets.

The handle looks to be the release to allow the motor to move closer to the head so the belts can be changed. It may require disassembly, cleaning, and lubrication to free up.

Joe Gwinn

Reply to
Joseph Gwinn

On Mon, 26 Apr 2010 05:51:36 -0700, AIOE wrote: ...

Ordinarily you would use drill bits with MT2 shank, rather than collets with MT2 shank. Visually similar to those at, eg,

That picture probably has both MT2 and MT1 bits; use an MT2-to-MT1 adapter for latter. Pictured at eg

The belt-tensioning handle should move much more freely, possibly simplifying lubrication, if you take off the back belt. After you loosen the "motor adjusting knobs" (the thumb screws) push the motor forward, take off the belts, push motor in and out, lube the slides, from inside and outside the head, etc. Rather than using the tensioning handle to tighten the belts after changing speeds, on my drill press I use a small crowbar between the motor and the back of the drill press head to hold tension while I tighten the two knobs.

Reply to
James Waldby

If it really is like the HF press there should be a set screw on BOTH sides of the drill press that needs to be loosened. I also use a box end wrench as a cheater bar on the tightening handle.

Reply to
Bob La Londe

I put a small floodlight in my drillpress so that all the light goes down to the work, and not into my eyes.

Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

That was pretty nearly a Gunner/Iggy deal. Very very well done!!

"First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost

Reply to
Gunner Asch

If your chuck is in rough shape..Im sure Ive got a few extra Jacobs chucks on MT2 stubs if you are interested in one. Might make you a good deal on one

Gunner

"First Law of Leftist Debate The more you present a leftist with factual evidence that is counter to his preconceived world view and the more difficult it becomes for him to refute it without losing face the chance of him calling you a racist, bigot, homophobe approaches infinity.

This is despite the thread you are in having not mentioned race or sexual preference in any way that is relevant to the subject." Grey Ghost

Reply to
Gunner Asch

Sadly, all new (even used) tools have a honeymoon expiration date. Just like a new gal, you will soon become satiated and bored, and be looking for bigger/better. Enjoy for as long as it lasts. The upside is that this is a repeatable experience that is not nearly as costly as the real honeymoon repeat scenario, and you can go out and do it again next week, and not be in the doghouse with SWMBO all the time. Or, as in the case of some of them, one strike and YER OUT! Sometimes unconscious for many minutes. ;-) And then you wake up to a lawyer.

Steve

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watch for the book

A fool shows his annoyance at once, but a prudent man overlooks an insult.

Reply to
Steve B

Collets aren't very useful in a drill press spindle. The taper in the spindle is meant to accept drills with tapers on the shanks, or arbors to mount chucks.

When you spot deals on drills with morse taper shanks, buy them for drill press and lathe use. Many made in the USA by quality makers will probably never completely wear out in your lifetime.

A 5/8" chuck will probably take care of most of your needs for drilling, except for very small drills.

You might want to get a couple of Morse-to-Jacobs taper arbors (with tangs, for removal) in the event you might need to use a very small chuck in the future.

Twist drills aren't supposed to slip in chucks, ever. Tightening the drill chuck in all 3 positions should eliminate any slippage.. if not, the chuck is probably defective or just poorly made, time to get a good quality chuck. Cleaning and lubrication may help, but a quality chuck in good condition should give the best performance and least amount of aggravation.

For large drills that are likely to grab in thin workpieces, 3 flats can be ground on the shanks with a Dremel or other suitable method. For large drills that are only used in thin work, the drill points can be reground with more point angle.

When using old drills that may have burrs on the shanks, always remove the burrs with a file, just enough to restore the surface. Badly damaged morse tapers (and arbors) should be avoided unless the taper can be reground.

Nevermind using water as a lubricant. A reasonably good cutting lubricant is the best choice. Not only is the drilling going to provide faster, easier and better results.. your sharp drills will stay sharp longer. There's not much point in trying to use dull drills, they'll most likely just result in damage to the drill press.

Reply to
Wild_Bill

That's not likely to work for you, unless the press is an unusual one, or you make some changes to it.

Most of those use tanged tapers. To use collets, you'll need to cobble up a drawbar setup. It might not be too hard to do, since some presses have bored spindles.

LLoyd

Reply to
Lloyd E. Sponenburgh

Your little dp looks like a Ryobi. IIRC those have a fairly fast spindle speed which would be useful for drilling holes with small drill bits. I'd just keep it for that sort of work.

Wes

Reply to
Wes

O.K. It is similar to a Taiwanese drill press which I got for about $150.00 back around 1975/76 or so -- except that mine is floor standing.

Mine now has a nice Jacobs keyless chuck (similar to the Albrecht ones in design and function), and the 5/8" chuck which came with it stays within reach in case I really need it.

O.K.

Good -- and can run slow enough for your 1" drill bits.

I've simply put one of the monkey's fist style Compact Fluorescents in it. That is short enough so it does not extend out where it is easily broken, but casts lots of light without heating the housing.

What you need is a Morse Taper "key" -- a tapered wedge which is put in one side and hit with a hammer to knock out the arbor or bit.

Note that you can get drill bits with direct MT-2 shanks up to

1" size, so you don't need the collets (which don't work as well in that as in a milling spindle, because there is no provision for a drawbar).

It usually has a fairly lose link to the motor mount plate. And it won't go very far with the belt in place and tight. Loosen the clamp screws (one on either side of the back of the casting), and you should be able to move the handle towards the back, which will pull the motor towards the casting -- as long as there is room for it to travel. It looks as though the motor mount plate is almost in contact with casting, which suggests that a belt is too short, or it is on the wrong step.

IIRC, there are five steps on the spindle pulley and the idler, and only four on the motor pulley, and you want the motor belt to be at the same level on both ends. If someone replaced the motor, and the motor pulley is mounted too low, the proper pulley steps won't line up.

There should be a map of belt settings inside the belt cover giving more detail than the front label does.

Once you get the rear belt off you *should* be able to move the lever towards the motor, moving the motor back away from the casting. When you have it as far as you can get it, put some drops of oil on the two round rods which the motor mount slides in the casting on, then work it back and forth a few cycles to clean whatever grunge is on the rods.

Then, look for a V-belt the right length -- perhaps an inch longer than what you have in there at present.

Note that some speeds can result in the idler pulley rubbing against the belt safety cover. I found the best way to fix that with mine is to punch new holes in the bottom of the cover where the two screws attach it to the casting, and the pivot rod for the idler goes into the casting so the belt housing can be moved a bit more towards the feed lever side of the casting and not rub.

Yes -- and get your 1" drill bit with a MT-2 shank instead of a Silver & Demming reduced shank.

Only one choice -- MSC #01520642 -- import -- black oxide finish, 118 degree point angle. $26.75 ea (get at least two, so if you dull it part way through, you aren't stuck with nothing to do until you sharpen it.

If you had a MT-3 spindle (neither do I, except in the lathe tailstock) you would have 17 choices in the same size drill bit.

Hmm ... does your new drill press have enough stroke to drill through both sides in one setup? That would save you some trouble with the dowel fixturing. Put some 2x4 under it so you don't drill into the table. Mine still has no "oops" holes in the table. :-)

Good Luck, DoN.

Reply to
DoN. Nichols

Hey, that was a good score - AND you were really lucky NOT to get the teenage daughter as well, if you havent had one yourself, mm, ah, yes, ..............you are blessed!!! (hopefully, they grow up to be Human, rather than something just visiting from their home planet..)

Nice to have tools with a bit of grunt in them.

BTW - the car? - well, you know what a bullshit artist Gunner is, wouldn't believe that bit. OK with the teenage daughter bit - anyone want mine? - shes semi-house trained. (A lie well known to all parents)

Andrew VK3BFA.

Reply to
Andrew VK3BFA

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