I don't know what to tell you about obtaining the "commercially pure" grade that is used, or was used, in commercial fiberglass manufacturing. I really doubt if nail polish remover qualifies, but I've never tried to buy the stuff myself.
Uh, actually, I did, once, around 25 years ago. But fortunately I learned that it's not the right stuff for cleaning the blush off of epoxy before I bought it. (The right stuff for that is detergent and water.) I'd check Thomas and similar sources. Again, I've been told by people who should know that you simply can't buy it in a retail store.
Lots of nail polish remover has stuff put in intentionally. Perfumes, oils, etc. If you want to buy it as a solvent, get the cheapest generic grade you can. However, I'm sure it won't be very pure. I've used CVS house brand stuff, and it seems to me that it left a faint residue.
Unless you're using well water, tap water WILL have some amount of chlorine in it, chlorine WILL attack aluminum. We had a fancy water conditioner on both the powdercoating and anodyzing lines. Removed the calcium and magnesium components of the hard water, too. On some parts, they wiped them down manually with lacquer thinner before running them through the line.
I've not had any problems with acetone contaminants and I've been using it for a loong time for prepping parts for epoxies. If somebody wants some super-clean stuff, pay through the nose for "reagent" grade. I'm not a heavy user of the stuff, though, buying by the barrel may get you something other than buying by the gallon. What I get is "C.P." grade and usually off the shelf at the hardware store or borg.
Re anodyzing: This is nothing magical, it produces a film of oxide with hexagonal holes in it, really SMALL hexagonal holes. Anything you put in the water will go in those holes, which is how they dye the stuff. Dyed coatings get sealed afterwards, the holes are purposely swelled shut. Now, I wouldn't want to use that particular surface to bond to, particularly as the coating is as brittle as glass. Using phosphoric acid for anodyzing probably etches the surface more and phosphates the surface, might give the epoxy a bit better mechanical grip. You might be able to produce the same surface effect with grit blasting, though.
=========== Very good suggestions in the thread. However depending on how understanding your wife is, and the size of the parts, try running some sample parts after cleaning with varsol to remove the gross oil and chips, through your dishwasher. High alkaline dishwasher detergent will strip the oil and very lightly etch the surface. A no-spot addative may also help to remove the water (sheeting action). Be sure to wear clean gloves when removing the parts to avoid contamination with skin oil. You may find it helpful to run an empty cycle before doing this to be sure all the food oils/fats are removed, and another empty cycle after cleaning the parts.
If this works you can invest in a dishwasher for the shop.
FWIW -- this worked well on the older computer boards, however I never tried on the newer surface mount stuff.
Unka' George [George McDuffee]
------------------------------------------- He that will not apply new remedies, must expect new evils: for Time is the greatest innovator: and if Time, of course, alter things to the worse, and wisdom and counsel shall not alter them to the better, what shall be the end?
Francis Bacon (1561-1626), English philosopher, essayist, statesman. Essays, "Of Innovations" (1597-1625).
Stan, What shop did you work in with powder and plating? I spent a few years in a local place doing powder and plating myself. (W.W. Custom Clad) They have been run into the ground as of late.
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