Pay attention to what it's made of. Polypropylene will stand up to almost any solvent that you can obtain. Polyethene will stand up to everything apart from molten alkali metals, and hydrofluoric acid.
I have used a sturdy polypropylene 'play tub' for this sort of thing. You really should either keep this outside, or use a proper metal tub, with a closely fitting lid, with a hinged lid with a fusible link to hold it open. Otherwise, if it goes on fire, bad things can happen. tub, with
Ah, yes. I have a large variety of such. Ready? Here goes:
Containers/Applicators
Graymills drum-mounted parts washer 110 gallon Rubbermaid cattle trough (bought at rural feed store) variety of stainless stock pots from 2 gallon to 30 gallon various rectangular plastic tubs i.e. Rubbermaid cut off top of old water tank 26" diameter cut off bottoms of old 5 gallon propane bottles
Solvents
Paint thinner cut slightly with ATF (for parts washer or bench work) Cascade Dishwashing Detergent -- powder, will remove paint, awesome stuff TSP (actual trisodium phosphate) (purchased at local Home Depot in paint dept) Red Devil lye (1# cans purchased in cleaning section at supermarket) Muriatic acid (purchased as needed at hardware store, not stored @ home)
Tips: Lye and TSP will do bad things to aluminum and zinc. Remove nameplates before doing a soak in these solvents. I tend to start by scraping away heavy gunk and doing a first cut in the parts washer, then I often go to dishwashing detergent in boiling water soak followed by rinse in water hot enough so the item self-dries completely within 60 seconds. Larger items you have to get creative with. I soaked the entire body casting of a Walker Turner bandsaw in the cattle trough in lye for a week to get the old crappy paint off.
Polyethelyne has kind of a slick waxy feel to it. If you are familier with tupperware, it is made from either LDPE or HDPE The difference here is the LDPE is softer and more flexable than the HDPE.
Also there is a recycle symbol on most consumer grade products, a triangle made up of three arrows with a number inside. See:
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(Watch out for the wrap)
Look for a 2, 4, or 5. These plastics will have the chemical resistance needed and if you choose a sturdy enough product you should be OK for a long time.
Personally, I use mineral spirits in a 1 gallon paint can for small stuff. Larger stuff goes in a big plastic tub sold for mixing concrete, using Simple Green or citrus based stuff for the solvent.
OK, makes sense. I wear disposable gloves when I mess with solvents, so my hands don't take a beating.
I buy gallon jugs of concentrate locally. I think I got them at Home Depot. I don't use it very often, and never more than a gallon at a time diluted 10:1, so it's not a big expense. I've seen pails and drums listed in the Enco catalog.
Just as a warning to all of you, some solvents can evaporate right through some of those plastics without melting them.
In early Dec I put about 12 oz of Coleman fuel into a Type 2 HDPE container and marked it in 1 oz intervals so I could fill my handwarmers easily. As of the beginning of March it was down 1.5 oz without having ever been opened. It evaporated right through the plastic. I had a similar occurrence with acetone although I don't recall which type of plastic I had that stored in.
For short term exposure, such as using a plastic tub to wash parts, the above advice may hold. For longer term storage, I don't think you can use all of the types of plastics listed above.
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