Dividing head

Mar 09, 2011 44 Replies

I tried an expanding mandrel type before choosing to make the other angled-cut type. The expanding mandrel was a tapered plug at the end of a section of all-thread which was pulled into the split mandrel, but it didn't hold very well, and was fiddly to release, so I made the other, angled-cut type.

The angled-cut type works well with only a moderate amount of torque to secure it, and the cut line isn't placed at the location of a bearing, but farther inside the spindle. I would expect the grip to be spread out over much of the entire length of the "fastener".. but possibly not.

When I locate a good heavy duty motor (probably PM DC) for the 9x20 lathe, I'll convert it as I did the other machine, and the hand crank will likely be reused for something else.

-- WB .........

That type of fitting presses the spindle tube oval, not good at a bearing.

I'd consider two concentric tubes, the inner one having a taper on the end that wedges the slit outer one evenly tight against the spindle ID somewhere far from bearings. It would work like a ball hole gage, but have an over-center cam instead of a slow-acting screw to operate it. The tapered cone could be a separate piece that screws on, giving an easy tension adjustment.

jsw

Not for holding square stock? :-)

Most 4-jaw chucks are not self centering -- though I actually have two of them -- one made for my Emco-Maier Compact-5/CNC and one which is really too small for the 12x24" Clausing .

The one for the Compact-5/CNC was ordered by mistake -- I thought that it was a four-jaw *independent* chuck, but there have been times when I was glad that I had it. (And I later got the Independent from an e-bay auction -- *after* having modified a 4-jaw independent for a Taig to fit the Compact-5/CNC.)

Enjoy, DoN.

Does your lathe have a back gear? If so, that typically depends on a bearing surface between the center of the spindle and the pulley. No problem when in direct drive (the pin in the bull gear engaging the pulley), but when you go to back gear (pull the pin and then engage the back gear on its eccentric) then the distortion of the spindle tube from that system of clamping can be a problem.

Enjoy, DoN.

No back gear on the typical generic 9x20 benchtop lathes, DoN.

As far as the likelyhood of distortion in the spindle from the angled-cut anchor for a hand crank, I don't believe it's an issue.

The wall thickness of the spindle is maybe 3/16" or more, and the grip of the anchor is spread out enough, IMO, to not present any distortion problems.. at the level of torque required to secure the hand crank.

I'm not going to be exerting enough arm strength that would be equal to shearing a key. The handwheel that the grip knob is mounted on is 10" diameter, IIRC.

If the nut were tightened enough to cause damage, I think the 1/4" all-thread would fail, as it's not generally strong when it comes to tensile strength. If the drawbolt were a high grade of steel and the nut threads were fine, then the possibility of damage would likely be present, if the user was not careful in tightening the nut.

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