I was thinking more along the lines of turning in a lathe. I've turned some 6" diameter by 6" long 12L14 steel, and when I needed to hit a particular diameter it was the heat buildup in the steel workpiece which was the problem -- I was not using coolant (not set up for it), and once I got close in size I had to wait for a couple of hours (went up to dinner) before re-measuring it and taking the final cut. 6" diameter stock grows a *lot* when hot from machining.
Enjoy, DoN.
Teenut? Yes -- and I still miss him.
Of course, he was a regular life-long smoker, too, so we can't blame the mist coolant with any certainty.
O.K.
Reasonable. And the oil based coolants are not as dangerous as some have been suggesting -- unless perhaps you do something stupid like waiting until the lathe tool gets red hot and then hit it with a stream of oil at just the wrong angle.
Full coverage will probably still cool it quickly enough to eliminate that problem -- though damage to the tool remains a possibility.
However -- if the red-hot tool gets hit just by the edge of the flow, it might vaporize and ignite the oil, which would then spread to the rest. Keep a good fire extinguisher handy, just in case.
Enjoy, DoN.
Sad to loose a buddy... I have lifetime exposure to about everything and in middle age some of it shows up...
Actually, I think my Landis grinder is the worst ( big flood, I put a fan behind me to help with the mist cloud). I finally found a synthetic that had none under the MSDS health hazards for it but it's still like standing over a vaporizer...
For my misters (spitters) I use Kool-Mist 77 and direct the flow into the bore or against the face (trepanning), I face mill "dry" on the HBM. MSDS - "non toxic" under ingestion and "none" under inhalation and skin exposure.
For clean lathe work I use a Cedarberg unit modified for low pressure spitting (these puppies fetch $180 or more now). Very pleasant and quiet but cools poorly, I can use W/S oils with this and get very little to no smoke and have no irritation.
For HSS milling or slotting on the knee mill I use Kool-Mist 77 with coolant metering at 40PSI (I'll get about 80 hours from a gallon). This is the only unit that atomizes but, at near dry I get no cloud). I can cut 60 - 80 1/2" slots 3" long in 4340AQ shafts with this and a beautiful finish.
When I use the shaper (seldom but fun), I use a lube stick (small to moderate cloud and irritating if it's moderate, but I stay away).
For tapping (hand or power) I use Anchorlube in a squeeze bottle (you can eat the stuff). This stuff is very good under boundry conditions (tapping or stamping) and is great for soft and gummy materials, (cleans up with water).
My 1 gallon 15 year old bottle of cutting oil (sulpherized) is still near full... And I have numerous other tapping fluid squeeze bottles that will look good on my "sale rack" someday.
Matt
My 1 gallon can of Oster "bestoil" thread cutting oil dates from the late '40s when my Dad got tired of asking clients wives for lard to use with the Beaver #25 dies when threading pipe for their plumbing projects. Gerry :-)} London, Canada
Soluble oil often has rust inhibitors in it, or you can add them. Tramp oil makes soluble oil a little messier, but seems to help greatly with the rusting issue as well, which is partially why I don't bother with a skimmer for the tramp oil. So cleaning up soluble oil hasn't been an issue.
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