Have you considered a gasketing compound? It seems like the right combination
of spray thickness and drying time could seal it up nicely.
Failing that, I do know for the holes you can use transfer screw punches. I
have a set of 10-32 from Small Parts. You'll likely need something a bit a
larger. They provide a center point surrounded by a male hex, with a driver in
the tip of the steel storage case for insertion and removal. Or are they called
screw transfer punches?
If you have the time and can do it cleanly, you can remove the crank and
pistons, having provided stud holes, and bolt up the head, then scribe really
well from below.
Failing that, you use an intermediate transfer material. Brown paper, or 0.020
Lexan come to mind. I have some 0.020 Lexan.
For cutting a gasket, you always sandwich it between two plys of wood to
prevent snagging the edge and give a clean cut, rather than cutting the raw
gasket. So you have to transfer your pattern to both sides of the sandwich,
with alignment, then monitor progress, flipping frequently if you are using a
Install wood screws or thread in lengths of rod all around the cylinder hole,
where it's scrap anyway, to tighten up that pattern. Make them flush. For
screws, go from both sides. For studs, cut to length, drill and tap, and thread
in with blue nut lock. There will be vibration. Leave blade clearance but
support the cut.
I think with gasket material, an adjustable speed router, dry cutting, and the
right setting could produce a fine, splinter free result. I've never done
Or, if the gasket is 8 1/2 inches wide or less, find a way to scan it and
process the scan on your computer. Print and cut on tempered glass until it
fits. Then deliver the B/W scaled pic on diskette to your NC laser or waterjet
shop for a supply that will last.
You can brayer ink onto the head surface and pull a print, lithography style,
to get this scan, then run it through a fax to get it into your computer. But I
have never seen a scanner or fax more than 8 1/2 inches wide. There must be
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