Re: Steam gasket Paper?

i wish it was the same, i really do, i have lots of A1 Gaskets,

> > here is a scan of a W head gasket.. >
formatting link
> Here is a scan of an A head Gasket.. >
formatting link
> take a look at what i require, > > thanks, Martyn

It looks like the W type is the same as the A type but bigger. I assume that is to seal the wet bits. If the combustion chamber part is the same, you can still use an A gasket to seal the aggressive part and make an extra surround out of a more easily available material to seal the water. I have found Cornflake packets make good gaskets in the past. There is also the possibility of making a complete gasket out of solid copper sheet.

John

Reply to
John Manders
Loading thread data ...

Hiya,

what about the wadding between the two copper sheets, or just use one single sheet and leave the wadding out, or alternately anyone know where i could get say 10 of these made without a paying much (Ie =A360), the other W head gasket is currently in an engine so i dont even have a template to copy, although im sure it wont mind having its head took off so i can make a copy onto cardboard and return it immedately after, :):).

Dose anyone want one if i get some made? or is it just me?

thanks for all your help chaps, Martyn

Reply to
Martyn Butler

Martyn The "wadding" was asbestos but is now some legal but not very good substitute. Look at SEM (and if you don't take it - you should) wherein you will find several gasket makers. I have no personal experience of using them. The solid copper gasket mentioned by Kim is just that - hacked out of copper sheet about the same thickness as a copper-asbestos sandwich gasket. They need to be annealed before each use. I've used them successfully for air-cooled engines but have doubts you could get a seal over the larger area of the W1 without having both head and block skimmed. (A new gasket will be cheaper) Other's views may differ. The old gaskets can generally be reused so long as not damaged by chisels etc. during dismantling ;-) A thorough clean with wire wool and a short soak in hot water usually brings them back (provided they have not been bent - old asbestos goes hard and brittle, hence the soak). It is my habit to give both faces a light coat of grease as I was taught by an old time mechanic. Again other's views will be different. You are moving from "parts available" to get it made or make it yourself. This is the slippery, but well-trod, path to a shed full of machinery :-) regards Roland

what about the wadding between the two copper sheets, or just use one single sheet and leave the wadding out, or alternately anyone know where i could get say 10 of these made without a paying much (Ie £60), the other W head gasket is currently in an engine so i dont even have a template to copy, although im sure it wont mind having its head took off so i can make a copy onto cardboard and return it immedately after, :):).

Dose anyone want one if i get some made? or is it just me?

thanks for all your help chaps, Martyn

Reply to
Roland and Celia Craven

Pretty good advice.

McGowan used to have some rolls of the graphited asbestos material, and also a few sheets as well. He probably still has some stashed away knowing him.

I have a sheet of it and can supply enough for Martyn to cut a new gasket out if he would like to contact me off-list when I can advise costs involved etc. It is 1/16" thick.

Peter

-- Peter A Forbes Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK snipped-for-privacy@easynet.co.uk

formatting link

Reply to
Prepair Ltd

I look after a couple of big 1960's Kelvin marine diesels from time to time (a T6 & a T8). Kelvins supplied new copper/asbestos substitute head gaskets about 16 years ago when I overhauled one of these, a

6-cylinder. All the heads were skimmed, new wet liners etc, proper torques used usw... A couple of years ago one of the head gaskets started blowing. 6 months later another one, then another some months after that. It appeared that the fibre packing was very gradually being squeezed out. This time, the new gaskets from Kelvins were solid copper

Grease or a smear of oil. If you have to use a dubious gasket, it's worth trying some Wellseal on the faces, but do check the head nuts/bolts again after half an hour as it will tend to extrude out initially.

Cheers Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs Vintage diesel engine service

Reply to
Tim Leech

Traders supplying the car restoration mob will do various sheet gasket materials. Asbestos is now unavailable, but glassfibre reinforced sheet material in various thicknesses, gasket paper and rubberised cork are all available at a price.

Search for Frost Auto Restoration and The Complete Automobilist (who also supply coned unions for fuel lines)

Reply to
John Ambler

PolyTech Forum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.